Building Reserve and Using KWH

[bcroe]

I used to worry about all HVAC functions being centralized, both the propane furnace and
the air conditioner relied on that furnace blower. One failure there and I was SOL. That
problem is gone, with 4 mini split zones, backed up by some substantial resistance heaters
if ever needed. So the blower is never triggered by the central plant anymore.

BUT I have an electrostatic air filter I would like operated regularly. And a little air mixing
between zones could be useful. A brand new blower motor is in place, and the solar PV
provides plenty of energy to run the motor.

SO a new function is tagged onto the central furnace. The blower may be run for a set
time (12 to 60 minutes), and then paused a set time (12 to 120 minutes). This repeats,
unless set to OFF.

Here is the control, which just attaches to the 24VAC thermostat circuit. Next winter will
check it out. Bruce Roe


blowerF.JPGblowerR.JPG

[bcroe]

direct burial 4/0-4/0-2/0 aluminum cable

The question then is how to terminate it. Could it come up through conduit, to an
outside box, then convert to smaller copper to the building?

I see some things like this AMP B1-T which is rated to connect 4/0 aluminum to
copper. Drive that wedge in I guess. There are also some big rated larger versions
of this split bolt available. If these work, what is the prep process and anti oxident to
use in the process?

Soldering aluminum can be done, except it may not work for big wire. Comments?

These wires will not be used at anything like current capacity, the idea is oversize
to control loss over a long run. Bruce Roe

40splice.JPG

[Ampster]

I see some things like this AMP B1-T which is rated to connect 4/0 aluminum to
copper. Drive that wedge in I guess. There are also some big rated larger versions
of this split bolt available. If these work, what is the prep process and anti oxident to
use in the process?

I would use a split bolt because I wouldn't trust a wedge to stay under various temperature changes. . If the copper and aluminum are fresh just cover them with antioxident. I use a product called NoAlox. Often available at Home Centers under Ideal or Gardner Bender brands. Electrical supply houses carry it too.

[foo1bar]

These wires will not be used at anything like current capacity, the idea is oversize to control loss over a long run. Bruce Roe

The POCO here uses something similar to what you see if you search for "Polaris IT-250". The version they used had 4 ports, and was more water-tight I think. But since you're going to be above ground (theirs was underground), and only doing a simple size change, not branching, the IT-250 or ISR-250 are probably more appropriate.

I've also seen description in this forum of a crimped-on "pin terminal" to change sizes to fit into a breaker's input. So that might be an option - or a crimped on reducer to change sizes.

If you go with a split bolt, I would make sure it's rated for aluminum.

I don't know the other thing you have in the picture. But I think you're right to make sure you understand the proper way to use them before you use it.

[bcroe]

The POCO here uses something similar to what you see if you search for "Polaris IT-250". The version they used had 4 ports, and was more water-tight I think. But since you're going to be above ground (theirs was underground), and only doing a simple size change, not branching, the IT-250 or ISR-250 are probably more appropriate.

If you go with a split bolt, I would make sure it's rated for aluminum. .

Thanks, there are split bolts rated for 4/0 AL. With 2 different sizes above ground,
I am leaning toward split bolt. Bruce Roe

[azdave]

...I have an electrostatic air filter I would like operated regularly. And a little air mixing
between zones could be useful.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding your mod but isn't that just like using the "circulation" setting on the fan selection switch? My thermostat has that feature and it randomly turns only the blower on and off throughout the day to keep the air feeling fresh and the filters collecting dust. You aren't still running an old, round, gold-colored Honeywell with the mercury tilt switch are you?

[foo1bar]

Thanks, there are split bolts rated for 4/0 AL.

There are - I'm just not seeing that they're any cheaper than the screw-down splices like IT-250. (which are IMO easier to use - don't need to put layers of tape on them afterward).

https://www.ecmweb.com/content/elect...kills-lost-art recommends2 layers of cambric tape (sticky side out on first layer so can easily remove tape without residue later if needed), 4 layers of rubber tape, and 2 layers of vinyl tape on split bolts.

[bcroe]

Maybe I'm misunderstanding your mod but isn't that just like using the "circulation" setting on the fan selection switch? My thermostat has that feature and it randomly turns only the blower on and off throughout the day to keep the air feeling fresh and the filters collecting dust. You aren't still running an old, round, gold-colored Honeywell with the mercury tilt switch are you?

You are kidding, right? You are asking someone who daily drives a 1977 (police equipped)
Oldsmobile, and measures KWH with a spinning disc meter. Technology proved reliable
over decades.

No I never have seen such a circulation thermostat. Can you set the run and pause times?
Maybe the thermostat for my 2014 heat pump (deceased) actually could do that, but I would
never trust that battery powered electronic marvel with keeping my pipes from freezing
while I am away. That heat pump quit every 2 years, and I am NOT expecting much better
from its wonder thermostat.

When they put in the 2014 heat pump, I ran a new thermostat cable for it NEXT TO MY
ROUND, GOLD COLORED, MERCURY SWITCH thermostat and told them not to touch
it, just connect to the furnace blower terminals. SHE (who drives a Honda at 437,000 miles)
is in complete agreement.

AMANA.JPG

Lately I have been considering removing the deceased 2014 and its thermostat, but
SHE likes the inside/outside digital temp readout. Bruce Roe

[bcroe]

There are - I'm just not seeing that they're any cheaper than the screw-down splices like
IT-250. (which are IMO easier to use - don't need to put layers of tape on them afterward).

https://www.ecmweb.com/content/elect...kills-lost-art recommends
2 layers of cambric tape (sticky side out on first layer so can easily remove tape without
residue later if needed), 4 layers of rubber tape, and 2 layers of vinyl tape on split bolts.

The aluminum direct burial wire arrived, 288 lb for 300 foot Triplex. Looks like
most of the connections can go straight into my box terminals, 2 of the 6 will
need to be reduced to 2 gauge copper to go into a 100A breaker. It came with
some so called lugs on the end, but they are useless. I put some 4 Ga they are
replacing in the pic for comparison.

Probably a spring project, should get me 700 KWH a year that now burn up in
adequate but inefficient, small wire. And avoid inverter HV trip. Bruce Roe

Triplex1.JPGTriplex2.JPG

[Mike90250]

Those lugs are unbelievable. Someone should go to jail for that. Pure and simple arson.

[foo1bar]

It came with some so called lugs on the end, but they are useless.

Wow.....

I would inspect every inch of the length of that wire.
Make sure there are no cuts in the insulation, no spots where it's been smashed, no kinks, etc.
Make sure there's nothing else to make you think that the wire has been mistreated.

[bcroe]

Wow.....
I would inspect every inch of the length of that wire.
Make sure there are no cuts in the insulation, no spots where it's been smashed, no kinks, etc.
Make sure there's nothing else to make you think that the wire has been mistreated.

Will do that inspection. Perhaps initially, and after a year, will do a leakage test to ground at
operating voltage. Expectation is something like 10 micro amps, at 250V that amounts to
0.022 KWH per year loss. Something entirely different would be bad.

Will also check for warm connections, as before. And voltage drop. Bruce Roe

[bcroe]

I would use a split bolt because I wouldn't trust a wedge to stay under various temperature changes. . If the copper and aluminum are fresh just cover them with antioxident. I use a product called NoAlox. Often available at Home Centers under Ideal or Gardner Bender brands. Electrical supply houses carry it too.

The NoAlox is here. I solved the 4/0 4/0 2/0 termination problem at the inverter end by
upgrading the inverter sub panel from a 100A to a 200A. This panel takes those wires
directly, and will become the main feed at the inverter shed when the big wire is in place.

Cannot do this at the other end, the 4/0 pair must be reduced enough into a 100A breaker.
Bruce Roe

S225boxDone.JPG

[Ampster]

That was a simple solution for the inverter side. It also reduced the number of connections.

[bcroe]

The aluminum direct burial wire arrived, 288 lb for 300 foot Triplex. Looks like
most of the connections can go straight into my box terminals, 2 of the 6 will
need to be reduced to 2 gauge copper to go into a 100A breaker.

Think I solved the transition of 4/0 AL to 1/0 CU house end of my triplex AL
buried cable. These terminals are designed for AL or CU 200A circuit, mounted
on half inch bakelite. They came from my 200A meter boxes, in the center to
splice the neutral wires together. I removed them (as many probably do)
because that wire runs straight thru, no connection. No bucks spent. The
house end distribution box already has a suitable N terminal for that wire.

Here the 1/0 is already wired to the (4 position) 100A breaker, 4/0 AL will come in
on the right. Until the project completes next spring, the 80A breaker just above
will continue to feed through adequate but less efficient 4 gauge.

Oh I discovered a RANDOM blower operation mode for my electronic
thermostat. I still would not use it, my unit is not random, can set and modified
times as I decide

Bruce Roe

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