Building Reserve and Using KWH

[foo1bar]

It came with some so called lugs on the end, but they are useless.

Wow.....

I would inspect every inch of the length of that wire.
Make sure there are no cuts in the insulation, no spots where it's been smashed, no kinks, etc.
Make sure there's nothing else to make you think that the wire has been mistreated.

[Mike90250]

Those lugs are unbelievable. Someone should go to jail for that. Pure and simple arson.

[bcroe]

There are - I'm just not seeing that they're any cheaper than the screw-down splices like
IT-250. (which are IMO easier to use - don't need to put layers of tape on them afterward).

https://www.ecmweb.com/content/elect...kills-lost-art recommends
2 layers of cambric tape (sticky side out on first layer so can easily remove tape without
residue later if needed), 4 layers of rubber tape, and 2 layers of vinyl tape on split bolts.

The aluminum direct burial wire arrived, 288 lb for 300 foot Triplex. Looks like
most of the connections can go straight into my box terminals, 2 of the 6 will
need to be reduced to 2 gauge copper to go into a 100A breaker. It came with
some so called lugs on the end, but they are useless. I put some 4 Ga they are
replacing in the pic for comparison.

Probably a spring project, should get me 700 KWH a year that now burn up in
adequate but inefficient, small wire. And avoid inverter HV trip. Bruce Roe

Triplex1.JPGTriplex2.JPG

[bcroe]

Maybe I'm misunderstanding your mod but isn't that just like using the "circulation" setting on the fan selection switch? My thermostat has that feature and it randomly turns only the blower on and off throughout the day to keep the air feeling fresh and the filters collecting dust. You aren't still running an old, round, gold-colored Honeywell with the mercury tilt switch are you?

You are kidding, right? You are asking someone who daily drives a 1977 (police equipped)
Oldsmobile, and measures KWH with a spinning disc meter. Technology proved reliable
over decades.

No I never have seen such a circulation thermostat. Can you set the run and pause times?
Maybe the thermostat for my 2014 heat pump (deceased) actually could do that, but I would
never trust that battery powered electronic marvel with keeping my pipes from freezing
while I am away. That heat pump quit every 2 years, and I am NOT expecting much better
from its wonder thermostat.

When they put in the 2014 heat pump, I ran a new thermostat cable for it NEXT TO MY
ROUND, GOLD COLORED, MERCURY SWITCH thermostat and told them not to touch
it, just connect to the furnace blower terminals. SHE (who drives a Honda at 437,000 miles)
is in complete agreement.

AMANA.JPG

Lately I have been considering removing the deceased 2014 and its thermostat, but
SHE likes the inside/outside digital temp readout. Bruce Roe

[foo1bar]

Thanks, there are split bolts rated for 4/0 AL.

There are - I'm just not seeing that they're any cheaper than the screw-down splices like IT-250. (which are IMO easier to use - don't need to put layers of tape on them afterward).

https://www.ecmweb.com/content/elect...kills-lost-art recommends2 layers of cambric tape (sticky side out on first layer so can easily remove tape without residue later if needed), 4 layers of rubber tape, and 2 layers of vinyl tape on split bolts.

[azdave]

...I have an electrostatic air filter I would like operated regularly. And a little air mixing
between zones could be useful.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding your mod but isn't that just like using the "circulation" setting on the fan selection switch? My thermostat has that feature and it randomly turns only the blower on and off throughout the day to keep the air feeling fresh and the filters collecting dust. You aren't still running an old, round, gold-colored Honeywell with the mercury tilt switch are you?

[bcroe]

The POCO here uses something similar to what you see if you search for "Polaris IT-250". The version they used had 4 ports, and was more water-tight I think. But since you're going to be above ground (theirs was underground), and only doing a simple size change, not branching, the IT-250 or ISR-250 are probably more appropriate.

If you go with a split bolt, I would make sure it's rated for aluminum. .

Thanks, there are split bolts rated for 4/0 AL. With 2 different sizes above ground,
I am leaning toward split bolt. Bruce Roe

[foo1bar]

These wires will not be used at anything like current capacity, the idea is oversize to control loss over a long run. Bruce Roe

The POCO here uses something similar to what you see if you search for "Polaris IT-250". The version they used had 4 ports, and was more water-tight I think. But since you're going to be above ground (theirs was underground), and only doing a simple size change, not branching, the IT-250 or ISR-250 are probably more appropriate.

I've also seen description in this forum of a crimped-on "pin terminal" to change sizes to fit into a breaker's input. So that might be an option - or a crimped on reducer to change sizes.

If you go with a split bolt, I would make sure it's rated for aluminum.

I don't know the other thing you have in the picture. But I think you're right to make sure you understand the proper way to use them before you use it.

[Ampster]

I see some things like this AMP B1-T which is rated to connect 4/0 aluminum to
copper. Drive that wedge in I guess. There are also some big rated larger versions
of this split bolt available. If these work, what is the prep process and anti oxident to
use in the process?

I would use a split bolt because I wouldn't trust a wedge to stay under various temperature changes. . If the copper and aluminum are fresh just cover them with antioxident. I use a product called NoAlox. Often available at Home Centers under Ideal or Gardner Bender brands. Electrical supply houses carry it too.

[bcroe]

direct burial 4/0-4/0-2/0 aluminum cable

The question then is how to terminate it. Could it come up through conduit, to an
outside box, then convert to smaller copper to the building?

I see some things like this AMP B1-T which is rated to connect 4/0 aluminum to
copper. Drive that wedge in I guess. There are also some big rated larger versions
of this split bolt available. If these work, what is the prep process and anti oxident to
use in the process?

Soldering aluminum can be done, except it may not work for big wire. Comments?

These wires will not be used at anything like current capacity, the idea is oversize
to control loss over a long run. Bruce Roe

40splice.JPG

[bcroe]

I used to worry about all HVAC functions being centralized, both the propane furnace and
the air conditioner relied on that furnace blower. One failure there and I was SOL. That
problem is gone, with 4 mini split zones, backed up by some substantial resistance heaters
if ever needed. So the blower is never triggered by the central plant anymore.

BUT I have an electrostatic air filter I would like operated regularly. And a little air mixing
between zones could be useful. A brand new blower motor is in place, and the solar PV
provides plenty of energy to run the motor.

SO a new function is tagged onto the central furnace. The blower may be run for a set
time (12 to 60 minutes), and then paused a set time (12 to 120 minutes). This repeats,
unless set to OFF.

Here is the control, which just attaches to the 24VAC thermostat circuit. Next winter will
check it out. Bruce Roe


blowerF.JPGblowerR.JPG

[Ampster]

Most of the 4/0 cables I have done are DC cables with hydraulic crimps. They bolted to either a battery pack or the inverter. I did connect some 4/0 cable to a service entrance but it already had lugs. You would have to see what kind of connection devices are available at your local supply house. One West Coast supply house that I have used in the past, does have 4/0 cable connecting blocks.

Now that I am reminded it is direct burial and that you have inclement weather in the winter you might consider a 3 or 4 inch LB into the house and have the junction box inside if that works better. I don't know enough about the details of your house to offer anything more substantial. There are probably several mechanical solutions. As far as the aluminum to copper connection I use Noalox.

[bcroe]

You are not going to want pull 4/0 through more than a couple of long sweeps. I would
terminate in a big j box and go out the back of that to the building.

For direct burial the only pulling 4/0 will be through a couple feet bringing it out of
the ground. Tell me about a suitable aluminum/copper J box. On the very short
run into the house to a 100A breaker, I could use 2 gauge copper. Bruce Roe

[Ampster]

.....

The question then is how to terminate it. Could it come up through conduit, to an
outside box, then convert to smaller copper to the building? Bruce Roe

You are not going to want pull 4/0 through more than a couple of long sweeps. I would terminate in a big j box and go out the back of that to the building.

[bcroe]

One item of loss here, is the original 600 foot loop of 4 gauge wire my inverters feed
the line through. The wire is not operating near capacity. But besides high voltage
problems, this may be loosing around 1000 KWH a year in resistive heating. The
thought lately is use direct burial 4/0-4/0-2/0 aluminum cable instead, 24 inches deep.

The question then is how to terminate it. Could it come up through conduit, to an
outside box, then convert to smaller copper to the building? Bruce Roe