Building Reserve and Using KWH

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  • SunEagle
    replied
    Originally posted by bcroe

    Good question, hope I have a good answer. First, there was already a 4 gauge feed from the
    shed to the house, which would be run at 75% of capacity with the inverters in the shed. If
    I had put the inverters at the house near the PoCo meter, I would have needed to trench the DC
    wires all the way to the house, doing this same trench in 2013 (when I had less experience). So
    I would still have had to dig the trench. Later I saw that my AC transmission efficiency was poor,
    and the very high line voltage (well above the legal limit) was going to cause alarms.

    The DC wiring is still trenched from the array 230 feet to the shed, through a less difficult area. I
    was just as happy to have total control of this 2020 wire upgrade, as opposed to letting an installer
    do it. As usual, with the needed tools on hand, DIY reduces the cost to parts wholesale, I think less
    than $1K. Maybe I should add a few hundred for a replacement trencher belt, this one survived the
    rock but is pretty beat. The other thing is, I want the solar stuff completely separate from the house.
    For example there are spare inverters in the shed. Bruce Roe
    Wow. I just spent about $1600 to DIY a 100amp U/G feed to a remote panel about 160 feet from my main one. One of the big costs was the wire at $800. The next was about $500 for the Sh 80 PVC pipe and fittings, about $200 for the trencher and $100 for the panel and 100A CB. I know I saved some money with DIY but staying withing code still cost me.

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  • bcroe
    replied
    Originally posted by DanS26
    Why did you not mount those Fronius string inverters next or close to the service and run high voltage DC to the inverters? Seems like you could have avoided a lot of time, expense and aggravation.
    Good question, hope I have a good answer. First, there was already a 4 gauge feed from the
    shed to the house, which would be run at 75% of capacity with the inverters in the shed. If
    I had put the inverters at the house near the PoCo meter, I would have needed to trench the DC
    wires all the way to the house, doing this same trench in 2013 (when I had less experience). So
    I would still have had to dig the trench. Later I saw that my AC transmission efficiency was poor,
    and the very high line voltage (well above the legal limit) was going to cause alarms.

    The DC wiring is still trenched from the array 230 feet to the shed, through a less difficult area. I
    was just as happy to have total control of this 2020 wire upgrade, as opposed to letting an installer
    do it. As usual, with the needed tools on hand, DIY reduces the cost to parts wholesale, I think less
    than $1K. Maybe I should add a few hundred for a replacement trencher belt, this one survived the
    rock but is pretty beat. The other thing is, I want the solar stuff completely separate from the house.
    For example there are spare inverters in the shed. Bruce Roe

    Leave a comment:


  • DanS26
    replied
    Why did you not mount those Fronius string inverters next or close to the service and run high voltage DC to the inverters? Seems like you could have avoided a lot of time, expense and aggravation.

    Leave a comment:


  • bcroe
    replied
    Originally posted by solarix
    FWIW, there is a mini-split brand by the name of "Mr Cool" that is aimed at DIYers. Unit comes precharged with special fittings so that you just plumb the lines together, then open the internal valves in the fittings and you are done. No HVAC serviceman required. Very simple to install. Limited to 25 feet between units though.
    I saw that, wonder if it was primarily for DIYers, or installation ease for all? Now
    wait to see if it becomes universal. I could not consider that for my units, the
    paramount consideration was their ability to operate at outside temps far below
    0 deg F. Bruce Roe

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  • solarix
    replied
    FWIW, there is a mini-split brand by the name of "Mr Cool" that is aimed at DIYers. Unit comes precharged with special fittings so that you just plumb the lines together, then open the internal valves in the fittings and you are done. No HVAC serviceman required. Very simple to install. Limited to 25 feet between units though.

    Leave a comment:


  • bcroe
    replied
    Originally posted by bcroe
    Meanwhile, the weather is improving, and the project to trench 4/0 aluminum wire
    out to the inverters may start soon. Conduit coming out to a trench is near
    complete, and some dirt has already been moved. Bruce Roe

    Perhaps the second biggest disadvantage of a ground mount array (after cost) is the
    distances power must be conducted to the destination. The trade off between cost
    of large enough conductors and efficiency becomes significant.

    At startup in 2013, the 600 foot (mostly buried) loop of 4 gauge wire connecting my shed
    with my solar inverters to my electric meter, was burning up too much power. It was causing
    unacceptable high voltage at my converters, and running a higher risk of failure with daily
    heating up and cooling down. In 2018 the section running half the length of my house
    section was replaced with 1/0 wire. Last year I started planning to bury a new feed of 4/0
    aluminum wire for the rest. 2/0 copper would accomplish the same but would cost $2600
    instead of aluminum for $600.

    When the weather was finally favorable, I started a 235 foot trench 2 feet deep for the direct
    burial 4/0, 4/0, 2/0 triplex wire. This can be difficult here because of all the rocks, here by the
    Rock River. After the better part of a month I finally got the trench ready, frequent rain did not
    help. Here is the biggest rock dug out, one of many removed or broken up with my hammer
    drill. My rock pile grows with every project.


    BigRock.JPG

    7 July I got the (really big) wire hooked up to the house, and by 14 July had the shed
    hooked up and running. Also in the trench is a ground wire, something the 70s installation
    did not have.

    Use of 200A dist boxes at both ends as sub panels really simplified the termination of the
    big wires. The terminations worked out at the sub panel level for 4/0 aluminum (2/0 neutral)
    looked like this going operational.


    2ndBox11Jly3.JPGShedBoxAL2.JPG


    The new wiring reduces AC loop resistance approximately from an original 0.15 ohms, to
    0.045 ohms. At max inverter output of 15.2KW, power lost in the loop drops from about
    560 W to about 170 W. While inverter output does not change, the rate of reserve registered
    at the PoCo meter goes up by nearly 400W any sunny day. My estimate is its a few KWH a
    day, over 1000 a year. My spinning disc reserve meter speeds up from 32 rpm to 33 rpm.
    No more warm wiring at the end of a sunny day.

    BiDirMtr.JPG

    Here are a few pics of the operation in progress. Remaining is to get the last of the dirt
    back in place. I put another (spare) internet cable near the surface of the trench, from
    my tower dish. The old furnace blower made 95 F temps more tolerable. No propulsion
    on this bottom end trencher, a boat winch pulls it along even better.

    Trn4Jly.JPG
    2ndBox7Jly3.JPG


    Bruce Roe
    Last edited by bcroe; 07-19-2020, 09:07 AM.

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  • bcroe
    replied
    The PoCo bill came, I looked over the first 2 months of this net metering period. 2 years ago I was not
    running the 5 mini split heat pumps. By subtracting reserve built up from inverter generation, I have a
    pretty good idea of my KWH consumption. Going back 2 years, the consumption for April-May was
    about 46.3 KWH a day. The past 2 months consumption was about 31.6 KWH a day. I am going to
    credit this 32% reduction in use to the increased efficiency of the mini-split heat pumps, over the other
    heaters. It would be even more, except an additional building is now being temp controlled.

    Had a brief issue 29 May, both inverters went off and were having trouble getting back in service. Half
    an hour later things were normal again, doing about 50% of capacity under some clouds. I guess there
    must have been some kind of line fault, later I noted it was about 120/240VAC even with the inverters
    pushing, think that has dropped a bit.

    Meanwhile the new AC feed trenching is inching along. With all the rocks, that
    term may be too optimistic. Millimeters? Bruce Roe

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  • bcroe
    replied
    Generally by 9am this time of year, a visit to the inverter shed reveals the twin 7.5KW
    solar systems are both saturated at full power. That even if a slight bit of cloud is
    present, with this arrangement. But a couple days ago one system was down some
    hundreds of watts from the other. I decided to wait a day for better sun, got the same result.

    OK, a quick walk around with the clamp on DC ammeter revealed, String 9 was putting
    out ZERO current. I actually had been a bit suspect of somewhat reduced output from
    S9 before winter, but tests had not revealed any fault. I went to the combiner and pulled
    the S9 fuse, S9 was delivering zero volts.

    At the array, some test points I had left in place revealed substantial S9 output available.
    Apparently the string was not connected to the combiner. More checking revealed this
    failed MC4 connection of the string return connection.

    String9rtn2.JPG


    Why is that a 3 way connection? This 2 sided array has strings facing East and strings
    facing West. To save wire an E and a W string share a common return, since they could
    not both deliver peak output at the same time. Even if they had, the return wire would
    not be overloaded. I decided to wait for dark for a simpler and safer repair job, an
    outdoor outlet on the end of this array would power a light.

    So what was to be learned from the 7 years of experience with several hundred MC4s?
    First my ability to compare the 2 systems at a glance had immediately demonstrated this
    serious fault.

    2nd the output difference between the saturated system and the faulted system showed
    that the total number of panels facing E (in this case) was about right. A properly
    operating system generated enough power to saturate the inverter, but not enough to
    mask the loss of any section.

    3rd my past warnings about MC4s were not excessive. Perhaps this one got a bit
    of weather exposure, and/or perhaps the seals were not moisture tight, and the
    heating/corroding daily cycle finally escalated and destroyed it. In the future all
    MC4s here will receive a dab of anti-oxidant compound as insurance.

    4th this will probably not be my last MC4 failure.

    Meanwhile, the weather is improving, and the project to trench 4/0 aluminum wire
    out to the inverters may start soon. Conduit coming out to a trench is near
    complete, and some dirt has already been moved. Bruce Roe

    Leave a comment:


  • bcroe
    replied
    Originally posted by Mike90250
    Wow, that's just awesome Bruce, Thanks for all your documentation and information.
    It is not as awesome as being off grid, but I am way too lazy for that. Bruce

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  • Mike90250
    replied
    Wow, that's just awesome Bruce, Thanks for all your documentation and information.

    Leave a comment:


  • bcroe
    replied
    With net metering resetting my reserve KWH to zero at the end of March, the challenge is
    to get through April generating more KWH than used, so I do not need to buy any. To add
    more challenge, this is my first April with 5 heat pumps on line keeping 2 buildings comfy.

    Sat and Sun each generated 149 KWH, amazing in these parts. That requires the 15 KW
    plant to run flat out saturated some 9 hours and 48 minutes each day. That is only 8 KWH
    short of my best June day record. Not to worry, I am not only breaking even, but my
    spinning disc reserve meter shows more than 800 KWH reserve already built up. Those
    heat pumps are just so efficient. Bruce Roe

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  • bcroe
    replied
    Another solar year, the PoCo reset date was reached 30 March. I gave them my surplus of 4,240 KWH.
    That is a surplus of around 18% over usage. No propane heat was used in keeping 2 buildings in a
    very comfy temp range. The winter might be summarized as having relatively cold fall and spring, but
    relatively warmer winter. No resistive or propane backup heat was used, the heat pumps did it all. It is
    easy to imagine a much more severe winter using up all my energy reserve and more.

    The heat pumps have reduced to a NEW LOW, my labors and attention to managing energy. Things
    pretty much run themselves, with some snow removal required by me, just a part of the cleanup of drives
    and walkways here. Sort of like those Medallion Homes after the war, but I have even more stuff and do
    not pay for energy. A few problems not originally anticipated have been solved, some using technology
    not originally anticipated.

    Future improvements anticipated include recovering close to 800 KWH annually lost in transmission
    between buildings, by burying much larger aluminum wire. The prep work is in place at both
    ends, on site are the 24 inch deep trencher, and the 300 lb of wire on this cart to avoid much manhandling.

    RelCrt1Ma20.JPG

    Also possibly install an electric water heater, with a propane unit remaining as power outage
    backup. 5 rooms are prewired to get ceiling fans, or at least high efficiency overheat lighting.

    I am waiting to see if a certain tree is dead, before making a final revision of best array placement.
    Foundations can be worked on half the year, above ground stuff longer. This is not high priority,
    but each section completed will give an incremental decrease in snow removal efforts and some
    additional energy. In one case I just drove the snow blower by the newest array with
    blown snow hitting the top, and the little snow just fell off without manual effort.

    I am thinking of no longer making daily performance log entries, perhaps
    just record about the time of the monthly meter reading by the PoCo.

    Bruce Roe
    Last edited by bcroe; 04-10-2020, 12:06 PM.

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  • Ampster
    replied
    Thanks for the updates and demonstrating that we can all have different goals. The important issue is to have a well though out process to accomplish our goals.

    Leave a comment:


  • bcroe
    replied
    First time this winter the temp got down to minus 10F. The 4 heat pumps managed to keep
    the house in the 70s without any action from me. The out building (1 big heat pump) also
    managed to stay 55 degrees warmer than outside. The next big test is - 20F. Bruce Roe

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  • bcroe
    replied
    Overnight was a serious test of the car shop heat pump. With an output of up to 24,000 btu
    it has been set for 60F in the 1080 sq ft, modestly insulated building. This had been
    maintained in warmer weather. With 3F this morning the interior was 53F, so a 50F differential
    may be maintainable. It may do less well if we see Neg 25F outside, the pump effective
    limit, but any of these are way better than no heat. A propane furnace stands by to make
    up the difference if ever needed, but has not been used this winter. Bruce Roe
    Last edited by bcroe; 01-19-2020, 10:28 PM.

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