Getting the best out of my system

[DanS26]

Just be aware that single point electrical connections that are cycled on & off will loosen up over time due to thermal expansion and contraction. It is a good practice to check and tighten them down periodically as most industrial companies do as part of their Preventive Maintenance plan on the electrical distribution system.

It is good practice to re-tighten connections.....but just a word of caution. If you continue to re-torque to original specifications, then over time you can flatten the wire in the connection so that any movement of the wire will cause a failure at the clamping point. I know this from experience. Of course this does not apply to lugs but only to wires in compression fittings.

My solution is to set the torque at 66% of the original torque value when re-tightening thus avoiding loose connections but not causing damage to the wire in the connection.

[SWFLA]

I'm looking at it logically. There is no difference between what that crimper accomplishes and this:



Same deal; single point compression. it exists on my controller, inverter, and existing interconnect.

If you're going to refuse to crimp Google solder slugs.

[-TX-]

What an interesting solution. I'm all in if Sunking approves, but this chart indicates high temp solder, which I assume this stuff is, is 11x more resistant than copper. Now, if 11x, or even 4x, is perfectly fine given its perfect bond, I'm all in. Cheap solution too. Thanks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkMdlPsBxkc

[bcroe]

This is directed to sunk....Before I join this help net I did some reading and I did find this man has a habit of getting a little sarcastic with help answers. Your talking to a 79 year old man that been a advance class Ham operator for more then 40 years and I am also a retired aerospace engineer

Hey, once you get used to SunKing, he provides the best entertainment we have. Not to mention experience.
73, Bruce Roe K9MQG for 59 years, Advanced

[Mike90250]

If you're going to refuse to crimp Google solder slugs.

BEWARE of solder. It will flow up into the wire, turning it into a solid. Where the flow stops, and it transitions to multi-strand wire again, is where it will snap internally the 15th time there is a teeny tiny amount of flex on the cable. This can be thermal expansion and contraction of the cable from day to night, hot to cold. Day 15 (or in mild weather day 26), the wires start to fracture and you get a fire 3 inches from the joint.

( hint to RF folks, I use this phenomenon to create beautiful RF braid connections, tin the shield braid, score and snap it, and peel off the surplus, leaving a neat edge in the braid, which is then tightly spiral wrapped and re-tinned with small gauge braid like solder wick, for the shield return. )

[SWFLA]

SK and the Mods are what made me join. The cold hard brutal truth there's nothing finer! Grid-tie and cheap panels coaxed me here.

Anyhow solder slugs/pellets are NOT UL approved, require flux, and the proper terminals. Some have it built in but the wire still should be fluxed. Better than any screw joint. I never had one fail from breaking but I use some very thick shrink on them too.

[Mike90250]

SK and the Mods are what made me join. The cold hard brutal truth there's nothing finer! .....

And you better stay loyal

[ufoexpert]

I did some soul searching last night and after talking it over with my son (who lives next door and is also been a electrician for the past 23 years) and I think I'll leave the system at 12 volts. I set off with the ideal of saving a few dollars a month and I'm am doing that. To jump the system to 24 volts will cost me 2 extra batteries plus a new inverter and then have to convince the wife it would be worth it and I can't do that. My electric bill for the last year has average about 30 dollars and that's not bad. There is still a little touching up with the system to do and I'll keep in touch with all. Thanks to all for your help. WB8ZII 73s

[Sunking]

What an interesting solution. I'm all in if Sunking approves, but this chart indicates high temp solder, which I assume this stuff is, is 11x more resistant than copper. Now, if 11x, or even 4x, is perfectly fine given its perfect bond, I'm all in. Cheap solution too. Thanks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkMdlPsBxkc

You are putting me in a difficult position. Let's try this. If you mean copy what the video did, ABSOLUTELY NOT no way Jos'e. Squeezing a terminal on with a vice?

OK industry like Automotive, Aerospace, Marine, or NEC allows solder to be used if 2 conditions are met: Only after you have made it Mechanically and Electrically connected beforehand with approved methods. Basically saying you can if you want after you already have it properly crimped.

What follows, I will deny I ever said or implied.

You can buy tinned, fine stranded wire and cable. In Telecom it is required, not because it is ever soldered but because it adds corrosion resistance. You can buy Silver solder even at places like the Blue or Orange box store. If you bought fine stranded wire and silver solder would likely cost you as much as premade cable properly terminated. TX try to understand I am a professional engineer and I cannot bless any ideas other than safe approved methods. Just the way I roll.

[Mike90250]

Hi temp solder, unless it's >50% silver, WILL be high resistance and melt itself out out of the terminal. Resistance = heat Heat melts insulation and starts fires.
Your call.

[-TX-]

You are putting me in a difficult position. Let's try this. If you mean copy what the video did, ABSOLUTELY NOT no way Jos'e. Squeezing a terminal on with a vice?

OK industry like Automotive, Aerospace, Marine, or NEC allows solder to be used if 2 conditions are met: Only after you have made it Mechanically and Electrically connected beforehand with approved methods. Basically saying you can if you want after you already have it properly crimped.

What follows, I will deny I ever said or implied.

You can buy tinned, fine stranded wire and cable. In Telecom it is required, not because it is ever soldered but because it adds corrosion resistance. You can buy Silver solder even at places like the Blue or Orange box store. If you bought fine stranded wire and silver solder would likely cost you as much as premade cable properly terminated. TX try to understand I am a professional engineer and I cannot bless any ideas other than safe approved methods. Just the way I roll.

Totally respect that, and you. But again, I'm not paying $600 for a one-time use tool nor am I driving 5 hours to rent one. Nor am I paying some child labor force in the Philippines $30 per jumper. If this board has no better solution than the one in that video, I gotta roll with it. Plumbers solder melts at what, 500 degrees? It's melting is not gonna happen before every shred of cable jacket has already been smoked, so I don't see the downside. In fact, minus the squished fitting (I won't do), a combo of both crimp and solder looks pretty solid to me.

[Sunking]

But again, I'm not paying $600 for a one-time use tool nor am I driving 5 hours to rent one. Nor am I paying some child labor force in the Philippines $30 per jumper. If this board has no better solution than the one in that video, I gotta roll with it. Plumbers solder melts at what, 500 degrees?

Careful there and I can take some of that responsibility and should have been more specific. Plumbers solder is not the same thing as Electronic Silver solder 62/36/2 or 62% tin, 36% lead. 2% silver.

I have no idea where you are coming up with Child Labor buying pre-made cables from a cable shop. Like I said open a damn phone book and find a local electrician that can make you the cables or even a local Golf Cart Shop, RV and Marine Shop.

Anyway you have been given a lot of options. If you choose to do something dangerous is on your own account and we cannot help you. Good luck.

MODS I suggest you shut the thread down

[littleharbor]

.

MODS I suggest you shut the thread down

Second that

[Mike90250]

Totally respect that, and you. But again, I'm not paying $600 for a one-time use tool nor am I driving 5 hours to rent one. Nor am I paying some child labor force in the Philippines $30 per jumper. If this board has no better solution than the one in that video, I gotta roll with it. Plumbers solder melts at what, 500 degrees? It's melting is not gonna happen before every shred of cable jacket has already been smoked, so I don't see the downside. In fact, minus the squished fitting (I won't do), a combo of both crimp and solder looks pretty solid to me.

TX, you are setting yourself up for a fire. But you don't know it yet. There is a VERY good reason solder is not used, nor hammer crimp terminations. I'd rather you not be one of the examples used to justify the reasons for Code existing, but you are well on your way.
Any battery shop can make the cables for you, 1 out of 10 electricians have the hydraulic crimper, and could make the cable. Myself, I had a bunch (24 cables) with lugs on each end, I bought the crimper. We have several solutions, but you don't want to hear them.

Currently, I don't think closing this thread will make you give up the hammer crimp & solder approach you seem set on. But we have done due diligence and warned you of the probable outcome, the first time you stress the system.

[jflorey2]

Totally respect that, and you. But again, I'm not paying $600 for a one-time use tool nor am I driving 5 hours to rent one. Nor am I paying some child labor force in the Philippines $30 per jumper. If this board has no better solution than the one in that video, I gotta roll with it. Plumbers solder melts at what, 500 degrees? It's melting is not gonna happen before every shred of cable jacket has already been smoked, so I don't see the downside.

Mechanical stability.

Try this - crimp a lug to some fine stranded cable with a good crimper. Bend it 10 times. Then see how many strands have broken. Then solder the same lug to some fine stranded cable. Bend it 10 times. Then see how many strands have broken.