mount panels on top of a 40 ft container
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I'd also add, that if it was me, I probably wouldn't be welding anything to the roof of a shipping container. Nuts and bolts are easier on the roof than welding. Done correctly, it can also be pretty leak tight. It's also more easily modified if/when you get more informed and aware of what a good PV design entails.Comment
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I would not rely on panel frames as the mount. The proper rails and clamps are a much better way and retain the warranty.Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-ListerComment
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You're welcome. I'm not saying use the edges or that welding is a good idea at all. What I am saying is that if you weld, use your head and make sure you think about what you are doing.
I'd also add, that if it was me, I probably wouldn't be welding anything to the roof of a shipping container. Nuts and bolts are easier on the roof than welding. Done correctly, it can also be pretty leak tight. It's also more easily modified if/when you get more informed and aware of what a good PV design entails.
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Show us what you develop. The winter vertical position should have the snow sliding straight
off the panel to the ground, if it hits the top of the container you will be clearing snow from there.
Bruce RoeComment
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Here's another idea I've had. What if I build a frame that goes down both sides of the container and underneath it (and on top of course). That won't go anywhere.Comment
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I'd guess 15 ea. 350 W. panels will have an area of something like about 25 m^2 ( ~ 270 ft.^2). Strapping each end of any racking to a shipping container might not be sufficient when the wind induced deflection of things like support rails is considered. And that's before any consideration of wind induced vibration which can be a real problem. Lots more.
Consider this: In a 100 MPH wind event, such an array may well see, very roughly, ~~ 6,000 to 8,000 lbf or more of wind induced loading on an array, and that's before any increases from vibrational effects. Even split between 2 containers, depending on panels elevations and container anchorage, the wind force induced moments might even overturn one or both containers.
Point is, there's more to wind design than you may know about at this time.
Take a wider view of what happens when wind (and other external loadings) interacts with an array, it's supports including all the structural components and connections, and whatever structure the supports are attached to, and then the anchorage of that structure to the earth. Old timers sometimes call that process "taking the loads out" - basically checking and accounting for all the induced load combinations for each member and connection in an application or design.Comment
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The empty container weighs 8400lbs. There is at least another 2000 lbs of material inside. I could even wieght it down with bricks if needed.
If I mount the panels at a fixed angle for my area (I think that's around 25 degrees), don't you think the sail affect would be much smaller. ?Comment
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The empty container weighs 8400lbs. There is at least another 2000 lbs of material inside. I could even wieght it down with bricks if needed.
If I mount the panels at a fixed angle for my area (I think that's around 25 degrees), don't you think the sail affect would be much smaller. ?
Without a lot more information it's impossible to say.
My whole bottom line is that you are beyond your knowledge base for the information you need for a safe, fit for purpose design.
Get informed or get some knowledgeable advice from a professional of the type you'll probably have to pay for that's beyond the scope of a semi public forum such as this.
Or, take your chances.
The usual response when I make comments such as that is something like: "Nobody does that and things don't seem to be sailing around in the wind. You're full of crap."
Yea, probably. But I've got a lot of company in the cesspit - mostly other engineers.
Either way, Whether you agree or not, what you don't know can hurt you.
BTW: Any local building codes or permits you need to conform to or obtain ?Comment
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What you write pretty much convinces me you're out of your depth and knowledge base with respect to what's required for a safe wind design.
Without a lot more information it's impossible to say.
My whole bottom line is that you are beyond your knowledge base for the information you need for a safe, fit for purpose design.
Get informed or get some knowledgeable advice from a professional of the type you'll probably have to pay for that's beyond the scope of a semi public forum such as this.
Or, take your chances.
The usual response when I make comments such as that is something like: "Nobody does that and things don't seem to be sailing around in the wind. You're full of crap."
Yea, probably. But I've got a lot of company in the cesspit - mostly other engineers.
Either way, Whether you agree or not, what you don't know can hurt you.
BTW: Any local building codes or permits you need to conform to or obtain ?Comment
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Whatever you end up doing structurally, it cant hurt to build some sort of wind block to reduce the amount of uplift under your array.
PS wire management was dealt with after this photo was taken.
Solar array at the Rock House 1.JPGLast edited by littleharbor; 06-26-2019, 07:05 PM.2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024Comment
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Whatever you end up doing structurally, it cant hurt to build some sort of wind block to reduce the amount of uplift under your array.
PS wire management was dealt with after this photo was taken.
Solar array at the Rock House 1.JPG
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Whatever you end up doing structurally, it cant hurt to build some sort of wind block to reduce the amount of uplift under your array.
PS wire management was dealt with after this photo was taken.
Solar array at the Rock House 1.JPG
A few points:
1.) Marginally effective against the northerly components of wind vectors but transfers some of that loading to the southmost roof contact points through the panel frames which then shows up as an additional/different variable/occasional compressive load on the roof.
2.) What about the ends ? I'd suggest most winds have vector components besides those normal to the back of the array.
3.) What about any additional flow induced vibration the added surfaces will excite ? Gust factor loading can also be enhanced by additional planar surfaces that act, in effect like baffles when close to other planar surfaces.
4.) What does the probable impairment of the under panel wind flow do with respect to panel temps. ?
5.) That plywood or CDX can add a tension load to the panel frames and the structure for wind vector components from the south.
In the end, that vertical surface at the back of the array results in just as much or more wind stagnation energy that still needs to be dissipated against the array and its attachments. More surface = more energy to dissipate. That's where the wind loading comes from. Besides probably adding more wind catching surface to an array assembly, adding more surfaces does little more than change the magnitude, direction and distribution of the wind (and other) forces impinging on an array/assembly. Only the magnitude, quite possibly the direction, and the distribution of the resulting forces has changed. Adding more planar surfaces only makes the analysis more complicated, but the forces on some components and attachments may actually increase or change from tensile to compressive.
And, for all the complexity added to the analysis, and all the added mat., labor and expense added to the project, the array will probably run hotter.
Another example of KISS not being applied.
On the good side, it looks like you can remove the wood rather easily.
Take what you want of the above. Scrap the rest.Comment
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Not being an engineer, a lot of the above is Greek to me. I'm sure some of what you mention has some validity but my practical mind tells me that the strong northerly winds and the uplift created on this 9' x 23' air scoop are considerably mitigated by adding this feature. I added it for a couple reasons, one being to lessen uplift but also so I, and others don't have to look at the underside of the array. I love the look of a nice big array of solar panels but not from that angle, which from the front of the garage is all you could see.
The fence, as I call it is dog eared cedar with close to 1" spacing now that the Baja air has dried it out. There is plenty of airflow though and around it and the array runs considerably cooler than an array mounted mere inches above a tile or asphalt roof.
jeep (2).jpg There are 3 additional modules added to this array before the dog eared fence was added. So as I was saying, aesthetically speaking, it needed to be done.
2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024Comment
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