solar system for shed

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  • Fordtrucksforever
    replied
    Originally posted by Freeesun
    Should I disconnect everything from the charge controller and reconnect it with the battery first?
    The charge controller should come with specific instructions on how and in what order to connect everything. You should not have anything connected to charge controller if battery is not connected.

    On most controllers, you connect battery first. Then connect solar panel(s). Now you can safely connect the load. Between each device and battery can be circuit protection of your choice. ie fuse or breaker. You will kill a charge controller if not following instructions from manufacturer.

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  • Freeesun
    replied
    Should I disconnect everything from the charge controller and reconnect it with the battery first?

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  • bcroe
    replied
    Originally posted by Freeesun
    it’s a cloudy day and we’re in December but I’m not getting any readings on my cc for amps from my solar panel. I’m getting volts but Barely any amps maybe .1. I should be getting around 8-9 amps and I know we’re in winter on a cloudy day at 4pm but should I get at least 2-3amps? Is this normal?
    Think in terms of around 1A under clouds. Bruce Roe

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  • Freeesun
    replied
    I finally hooked everything up and it seems to be working fine, it’s a cloudy day and we’re in December but I’m not getting any readings on my cc for amps from my solar panel. I’m getting volts but Barely any amps maybe .1. I should be getting around 8-9 amps and I know we’re in winter on a cloudy day at 4pm but should I get at least 2-3amps? Is this normal?

    I’m going to wait for a sunny day before I freak out but I do have a second question. On my cc I have a picture of a solar panel, a battery and a light bulb. Right now I connected the battery pictures outputs to my fuse box with a fuse is in. And I connected my battery to the fuse box directly.

    everything works good but I’m wondering if there any difference in connecting it this way or let’s say battery directly to cc (with much smaller wires at the end) and the light bulb outputs to fuse box?

    I guess all all I can think of is when I try and read the load going out of the cc it doesn’t say anything because of the way I connected it I’m guessing?

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  • Mike90250
    replied
    The pic that wallmart has (, sure looks like that is a flooded battery, that need distilled water added monthly. And it will emit both acid fumes and hydrogen gas, so well ventilated is correct.

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  • Freeesun
    replied
    or just store it outside?

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  • Freeesun
    replied
    i ended up buying this battery from wallmart today for around $150 canadian https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/eversta.../6000195362453.... its a deep cycle battery and it is a wet cell battery that is maintenance free. its 80ah and i think thats good for my 150 panel because im pointing the panel west and not south because of the orientation of my shed. my panel can produce 9.something but realistically im guessing around 8.

    ive read that i shouldn't open the two top flaps on it and add water because that might void my warranty but im curious about when it says danger due to gasses. im planning on having this battery under my workbench and it says it might have gasses and to have it in a well ventilated area. so now im wondering if i should of bought agm to be safer or does everyone think this one is ok to sit beside this battery?

    this week i hope to start connecting everything and power everything up.

    thanks eveyone for the help for the 10000000000 time

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  • Mike90250
    replied
    If you don't need a large battery bank, then a single "marine deep cycle" is the next best thing to GC batteries. It will last a couple years, if cared for.

    Fusing. Fuses protect the wires from burning. in an ungrounded system, it's hard to predict where a short might occur, so fuses on both - & + terminals are needed, in the size that protects the wire. Not all applications REQUIRE a ground, but it sometimes simplifies things.

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  • Freeesun
    replied
    im trying to find a gc2 battery but i dont think they make them under 200ah which is too much for my panel. im producing around 9a in perfect conditinos which they will not be on my roof. so im looking for around 70-80ah battery.

    i found this one https://www.power-sonic.com/product/dcg12-70/ and seems to be good but its not a gc2.

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  • Freeesun
    replied
    so you would recommend flooded lead acid? and do you know anything about fusing the negative terminal if i dont have a ground? or taking the fuse off of the positive from the solar panel to the cc.
    ive read before that you fuse all the positives?

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  • Mike90250
    replied
    In my learned opinion, Li batteries have a very small niche applications. They require learning a whole new set of caring over and above Flooded Lead Acid. They are expensive and when used in low stress applications, they seem to have a fairly long life.

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  • Freeesun
    replied
    Nobody has any input on lithium or fusing the negative terminal?

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  • Freeesun
    replied
    I've been reading th about lithium battery's and was wondering if I should even get one? I see that they are expensive but last much longer than the other ones. What would anyone recommend for battery type and what websites preferable able to ship to Canada would you recommend?

    also I re read this convo and seen that someone said that if I don't ground my system that I need to fuse both the positive and negative of my battery and I don't need a fuse between my solar positive and cc. Is all thiss true?

    Im starting to mount this weekend. Wish I could send pics

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  • Ampster
    replied
    The great thing about those flashing quick mounts is that they cover the holes made when you miss the rafters. I have never done that but if I did I would still put caulking in the holes. LOL

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  • Freeesun
    replied
    Asphalt shingle not cemented together I don't think. I'm going to place it on the roof this weekend and hopefully all goes well. I hope I can hit the rafters and not just the particle board

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