New Setup... lot of questions

[Suprasoup]

I'm using #2 cable

200a is your max fuse rating. Split the difference between minimum and maximum is 140a. So your 150ANL fuse would be ok IF its rated for 48v DC. Make sure you check that.

[Suprasoup]

Heres a good resource for determining wire size and fuse sizes. Always a good idea to have an understanding.

https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1437

[lrseda]

200a is your max fuse rating. Split the difference between minimum and maximum is 140a. So your 150ANL fuse would be ok IF its rated for 48v DC. Make sure you check that.

Thanks for the info.

I hope its work. Not sure if ts rated for 48V

as for the from of the inverter to the main panel, its recommended a sub panel. That's basically a one or two space breaker box with what size of breaker. This is the AC side so following the same calculations would be a 75Amp. I'm correct?

[Suprasoup]

Your inverter has both an AC input and an AC output. The input can be either your main circuit breaker panel or a generator. NOT both at the same time. The fxr3048 manual goes over how to set up a manual changeover switch. The fxr3048 has a maximum AC input of 60a AC.

On the output side, a sub panel, where you power all your AC loads off the inverter:

3000w / 120v = 25a AC minimum. Outback recommends 10 AWG for AC loads so your maximum is 60a AC.

Dont cheap out on the fuses. You have spent good money on your equipment to risk it on an improper fuse. Make sure they are rated for the intended purpose.

[lrseda]

Hi all,

I need advice.

OK, FINALLY I got power from the POCO since hurricane Maria pass. I'm still going to made the switch to solar.

Yesterday i got the 48v Outback FXR3048A Inverter, so I think it's a good chance to turn off the system and upgrade it to 48v.

About the batteries, now that I will be disconnecting all 4 batteries and make the 48v bank using the other 4 I got waiting for, it's recommended to do a EQ on the batteries before disconnect the 12v system or I should wait until the new system and use the outback inverter and the POCO to do EQ on all the batteries?

Thanks in advance

[Mike90250]

I'd get a grid power 12V charger and fill up each battery on it's own. That way, you are starting from KNOWN GOOD

[Suprasoup]

I agree. Charge each 12v battery (2 x 6v wired in series) using a 12v grid charger. Once they are fully charged then assemble your batteries into a 48v battery (8 x 6v in series). At this point you can use your Outback Inverter/charger to EQ if its needed. Use your temperature compensated hydrometer to check the SG of each cell.

Your Outback FXR3048 can function Grid Tied if your POCO allows it. IF not you can Grid Zero to utilize your solar panels while still staying on grid. Let us know if you need anymore help.

Supra

[lrseda]

OK, thanks for the tip. I would do that.

I need to purchase the Display Mate3 so I can change the setting on the inverter. It default mode is in support. Reading the manual I can use it in support mode as ButchDeal suggested in my 48V Inverter Suggestion threat.

Suprasoup Use your temperature compensated hydrometer to check the SG of each cell.

I just ordered one and waiting to arrive. I do have a hydrometer (see picture) but not temperature compensated. Before last night with basically no load on the system all cell are above and close to 1.300 SG. The next morning (yesterday morning) and leaving the fridge all night the SG was below 1.275 but above 1.250. This is weird since the voltatge at the charger controller appear at 12.3V. Yesterday during the day the voltage raise at 14.7 per setting on the CC.

Now, this is not the case for the other 4 batteries waiting to be connected in the 48v bank. I measure with the hydrometer and all are at 1.250 SG

So with the 12V grid charger I can put all of them to 1.275 SG

Suprasoup Let us know if you need anymore help.

Definitely will need more help as I learned a lot from this forum, especial thanks to you and the other that has help me.


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[lrseda]

Dont cheap out on the fuses. You have spent good money on your equipment to risk it on an improper fuse. Make sure they are rated for the intended purpose.

Would this one do the job? I don't fine any specification that assure the ANL is rated for 48V either don't fine one ANL fuse to replace so I search for a replacement
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...J8MC7PE8&psc=1

Also I don't have any protection from the CC to the Battery bank. Do I use the same fuse?

[Suprasoup]

The Inverter and the Charge controller need their own separate fuses. Personally I am not a fan of circuit breakers for DC. Take a look instead at Blue Seas MRBF fuses. They bolt directly to the battery terminal and they come in 2 fuse models:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002INJXO6/ref=twister_B071H9NL9G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Get a 150a fuse for the Inverter and a 100a (80a x 125%) for the charge controller.

[lrseda]

I'd get a grid power 12V charger and fill up each battery on it's own. That way, you are starting from KNOWN GOOD

No matter what 12v charger? I mean 2A, 15A or 40A or does not matter, just get them full charge.

Thanks

[lrseda]

Hi all,

First thank for the replies and help and special thanks to Suprasoup , Mike90250 and ButchDeal

Here are some update information of what I have been doing with the upgrade process...

Yesterday I complete what I call "phase 1" that consist of the following

1. Charge all batteries individually (2 x 6v in series) using a 12v grid charger and a temperature compensate hydrometer.
2. Eliminate the cheap pwm charge controller
3. Putting together the batteries and fuses for a 48V @ 370HA bank
4. Reconfigure the panels to a 3S2P configuration
5. Reconfigure the Outback CC for 48V, set the absolve, float and re-bulk to 59.2V. Not sure about the re-bulk, Should I leave it as default value of 48V?
6. Eliminate the 12V Inverter
7. Made the connection on the Outback FRX3048A Inverter.
8. Test all connections to make sure everything is ok
9. Power on system

Phase 2 consist:

1. install pvc conduit to the new sub-panel and re-configuring the AC wiring to separate multiple house in the main panel.Only my house wiring will be in the sub-panel.
2. From the main panel to the AC input on the inverter
3. From the AC output to the sub-panel.
4. Grounding from the main panel to a ground bar, then to all the system
5. Some cosmetic... Paint the battery box

Feel free to contribute and comments

Good day

[Mike90250]

Set the charger back to the factory settings, otherwise you will be in bulk 90% of the time, consume excessive water and damage your batteries

If your battery came with CYCLE duty charge specs, use those. But you will eventually need to monitor voltage and work out ABSORB time setting to insure the batteries get fully charged, this will depend on your loads and solar supply.

[lrseda]

Set the charger back to the factory settings, otherwise you will be in bulk 90% of the time, consume excessive water and damage your batteries

If your battery came with CYCLE duty charge specs, use those. But you will eventually need to monitor voltage and work out ABSORB time setting to insure the batteries get fully charged, this will depend on your loads and solar supply.

Thanks for the tip,

Change back to manufacturer settings, I do have the manufacturer charge specs, was following the sticky tutorial "Are you killing your batteries" I indeed lower the voltaje yesterday after reading SG, the result was high (1.275) the manufacturer state a 1.265 for 100% charge.

I will start monitoring and keep records of the reading

[Mike90250]

after reading SG, the result was high (1.275) the manufacturer state a 1.265 for 100% charge.

Then you did something wrong: Added acid instead of water, or not applying temperature comp correctly. There is no way to charge a battery and end up with stronger acid than shipped from factory.