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Definitely not. A LED will not turn on till it reaches a certain voltage and even your highest voltage doesn't seem high enough. I haven't played with white LED recently and there may be some lower voltage ones now. Regardless, it will have to be at least over 3V.
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I'm trying to figure out how the 0.75vdc was calculated.Comment
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That's the reading on a multimeter from the two wires leading to the light from the solar panel. With absolutely no markings on the panel itself, how would I determine what the output from the panel should be? I'd like to order a new panel and try it.Comment
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There should be some markings on the batteries as to what voltage they should be. There are many different chemistries all with different voltages. I wouldn't just throw money at a new panel. Panel just has to produce more volts than the batteries. Did you connect the light with the correct polarity? They will only light one way.Comment
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White LEDs typically have a forward voltage of 3.2 volts however, with modern boost converters you don't need to have a power source that will meet or exceed that. There are millions of cheap flashlights around that only need a single 1.5V AA cell to work just fine to drive a white LED.
Dave W. Gilbert AZ
6.63kW grid-tie ownerComment
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Paradise 1.2v battery x 2....both fully charged. Panels producing 3.58v
When the wire was cut there were two internal wires....red and black....I simply re-connect red-red and black-black. Is this not correct?Comment
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This photo shows the opposite side of #5 in the previous post....it is the plug in located on the right of the photo. The wire was cut between the plug, which is on the left in the photo and the lamp itself.
Solar light.jpgComment
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I'm getting the facts confused. In your previous picture, #5 was the switch.
Please confirm the latest attached picture has the correct details..
In your first post, you said you measured 3.58VDC on the back of the round connector that goes to the light, #1.
You plugged the chandelier cable with two cut ends into connector #1. You measured 0.00 VDC.
So the electrical path is back of connector, socket connector contacts, plug connector contacts, wires soldered to plug connector, wire, cut ends of wire.
Without the light attached, you check the electrical resistance of the black cut wire to the plug connector and red cut wire to plug connector. The resistance should be very low. Record the values for the red and black wire.
Unless the solder joints are bad on the back of the socket connector, the main suspect would be the coaxial "battery" type connector. I mentioned in my previous post, these connectors are not exactly ideal for outdoor environments.
I'm comfortable with soldering and fixing things, so if it was me, to test out my theory, I would clip the wires on the back of the socket connector #1 leaving enough wire to strip both sides of the clipped wire in order to reconnect them later.
There are two things you can do here.
1) plug in cut chandelier wire and measure the resistance from the end of the cut wire to the clipped wire on the back of the socket connector. Record the values for the red and black wire. While your at it, wiggle the connector as you are measuring the resistance. Any open circuit or very high measurement means you have a bad connector.
2) you can bypass the connector and wire up the chandelier wires directly from the chandelier to the wires from the board that were going to connector #1.Comment
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Attached photo is correct....#5 is the on/off switch. Thanks for the troubleshooting tips, but unfortunately I'm not really familiar with electrical stuff so may have confused the issue somewhat. I don't know how to set my multimeter up to check resistance...can you assist? I'm assuming it needs to be set in the lower left qudrant....is that correct? What setting should I use?
Thanks.
Multimeter.jpgComment
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Omega, Lower Left quadrant is correct. Try setting it on 200 to start.Comment
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plug in cut chandelier wire and measure the resistance from the end of the cut wire to the clipped wire on the back of the socket connector. Record the values for the red and black wire.
Red wire 1
Black wire 1....neither showed any change on the multimeter...it reads 1 before connection and also after.
Without the light attached, you check the electrical resistance of the black cut wire to the plug connector and red cut wire to plug connector. The resistance should be very low. Record the values for the red and black wire.
Red wire .6
Black wire .6
plug in cut chandelier wire and measure the resistance from the end of the cut wire to the clipped wire on the back of the socket connector. Record the values for the red and black wire. While your at it, wiggle the connector as you are measuring the resistance. Any open circuit or very high measurement means you have a bad connector.
Did this....covered panel to represent darkness....lights did not come on. Voltage reading at wire joint was 2.2vComment
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UPDATE...went back, and re did the connection between the end of the cut wire and the clipped wire at the back of the socket connector.....with solar panel covered the light now works!!!!
Can I just solder the connection and re assemble, or should I replace the plugin socket?Comment
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You never answered the question: how many years has this light been in service? I'm guessing it's less than 2 years.
Remember I said this connector is not very suitable for outdoor use. You could try to get a socket connector that at least has a weather resistant cover.
I would measure the outer diameter of the PLUG connector with a pair of calipers. Then you need to know the outside diameter of the SOCKET connector.
You could then find something on line like
5.5 x 2.1 MM 8A DC Power Jack Cord Socket Threaded Female Mount Connector Adapter with Pre-soldered Wires and Waterproof Cover Cap
This means the outer diameter of the plug connector is 5.5mm.
You have enough information to be dangerous now.
Good luck.
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