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  • df0rster
    Solar Fanatic
    • Jun 2018
    • 127

    Solar heating project equipment and calculations

    As part of my next solar panel addition discussed in another thread, I'm installing about 4kw of panels I picked up very cheaply onto my metal shop roof. This will be backfed (AC coupled) into my Outback Skybox via another separate grid tie inverter (probably a growatt hybrid or an SMA, but that is another discussion for later)

    The main purpose in the winter months will be to heat my floor with my existing radiant floor heat setup. The floor heat works well with my Takagi tankless propane heater, but that is a very expensive option for heat. So we didn't use it this year as it added up to about $300/month for propane to keep the floors and house comfortable last year. That was even burning some wood in the stove to keep things toasty when it was very cold.

    Anyway, I am now looking for ideas to utilize the 4kw of solar panels to heat the floor. I can definitely exceed the 4kw if needed as I will have most of the total capacity of the skybox available to use ( roughly 10kw total panels). But I'd like to keep the average to about 25kwh per day or less as my new panels will cover that. My existing panels cover about 30 kwh/day which is about what we use on average including heat and cooling. So actually I'll have a bit more than 25kwh excess if the floor is doing the heating, maybe up to 40 kwh. I should also mention it is a net metered grid tie system so I can pull from the grid bank on cloudy days.. And in turn on sunny days I won't be inputting as much heat of course.

    One problem is figuring out what kind of heater to use with my system & calculating heat capacity of the equipment. I was going to try to re plumb and use an electric tank water heater, but I don't think even with a 4-5kw heating element that the floor will stay very warm even if I run it all day. So I saw in some posts here that people recommend using a heat pump water heater with solar because they are much more efficient. I looked up some specs on the Rheem line. They have a 4200btu/h heat pump which is almost nothing compared to what a 2500 sqft house would require but I guess it also has a backup 4500 watt element. So that could provide me with about 4200btu/hour of the heat pump plus the 4500 watts (1 watt=3.4 btu/h so that is 15,000 btu/h). For a total of about 19,000 btu/h. That seems like a decent amount of heat and may be enough. Running that for 8 hours/day might go over my 40kwh limit of my excess production. But on average it may work out. If anyone is so inclined to check my calcs, let me know if anything stands out wrong as I'm sure I could have made some mistakes. I haven't thought through all these numbers yet.

    The next question is are these heat pump water heaters designed to work 8+ hours/day? I guess I can read more on that in their specs and warranty information. But figured I'd pop in here and see what folks had to say about this. As I said earlier the tankless worked fine for the season I used it. One advantage is you aren't constantly adding minerals to the system in a closed loop so you don't have as much potential to produce scale that tends to shorten water heater life..


    Any thoughts appreciated.
  • Ampster
    Solar Fanatic
    • Jun 2017
    • 3650

    #2
    The advantage of a heat pump water heater and a radiant system is that you can store energy in the tank and the floor. The efficiency depends on the average temperature in your area. I assume you are well insulated since that can offer the first order of paybacks.
    9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012

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    • df0rster
      Solar Fanatic
      • Jun 2018
      • 127

      #3
      Originally posted by Ampster
      The advantage of a heat pump water heater and a radiant system is that you can store energy in the tank and the floor. The efficiency depends on the average temperature in your area. I assume you are well insulated since that can offer the first order of paybacks.
      It is well insulated, we have a new home with closed cell foam throughout. The concrete slab floor gets pretty cold in the winter but it is also insulated around the perimeter with close cell foam under the slab and on the edges. It is NE Oklahoma so it can get pretty cold, has been about 15-20F at night lately. Today it is 70F!

      I planned to keep the heater in the utility room. But I know you can vent the cool air from the water heater into the attic. but that doesn't make a lot sense to me because the makup air coming in from outside will be cold also.

      Good point about storing heat in the slab. I wish I could find a water heater with a larger heat pump, Rheem and AO smith are the only two mainstream ones I have found and AO doesnt' list their heat pump rating. I wonder if I can turn off the electric elements if I want to and just let it run 24/7 in heat pump mode?

      One nice thing is you can save a lot of money getting the smaller 40 gallon Rheem and it has the same 4200 btu/h heat pump.

      Comment

      • Ampster
        Solar Fanatic
        • Jun 2017
        • 3650

        #4
        Originally posted by df0rster
        ............ I wonder if I can turn off the electric elements if I want to and just let it run 24/7 in heat pump mode?
        .......
        The Rheem can be programmed to only run in heat pump mode. When I get around to installing mine I am going to consider using attic heat as the heat source and venting outside in winter and into my garage space in summer.
        9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012

        Comment

        • peakbagger
          Solar Fanatic
          • Jun 2010
          • 1562

          #5
          Look into air to water heat pumps, they look like a minisplit but the refrigerant stays outside and glycol is used for heat transfer to the inside. The COP is in the 3 to 1 range so more heat for the watt. The downside is they really do not like temps much below 20 F, the COP starts to drop. The work best with radiant heating as the hot water temp is in the 120F range. John Seigenthaler has a column in on of the trades and he has written several columns on the best way to apply them.

          Comment

          • mjs020294
            Member
            • Nov 2021
            • 76

            #6
            Originally posted by df0rster
            I wonder if I can turn off the electric elements if I want to and just let it run 24/7 in heat pump mode?

            One nice thing is you can save a lot of money getting the smaller 40 gallon Rheem and it has the same 4200 btu/h heat pump.
            I have had a Rheem 50 gallon hybrid tank for a five months. It has been in compressor mode the entire time. I live in NE Florida so we don't get really cold weather but we have had some pretty cold days of late. In the last five months the highest consumption day was 3kWh and the lowest was 0.7 kWh. The February average was around 1.6kWh. I expect the consumption to drop significantly March thru October.

            Mine is in the garage and I have vented it into my workshop/gym which is attached to the garage.

            Comment

            • df0rster
              Solar Fanatic
              • Jun 2018
              • 127

              #7
              Originally posted by Ampster
              The Rheem can be programmed to only run in heat pump mode. When I get around to installing mine I am going to consider using attic heat as the heat source and venting outside in winter and into my garage space in summer.
              So does it have an inlet and an outlet vent option? I could see using attic heat in the summer for sure. But In winter my attic gets pretty cold. It might be just a few degrees warmer than outside in cold months.


              Comment

              • df0rster
                Solar Fanatic
                • Jun 2018
                • 127

                #8
                Originally posted by mjs020294

                I have had a Rheem 50 gallon hybrid tank for a five months. It has been in compressor mode the entire time. I live in NE Florida so we don't get really cold weather but we have had some pretty cold days of late. In the last five months the highest consumption day was 3kWh and the lowest was 0.7 kWh. The February average was around 1.6kWh. I expect the consumption to drop significantly March thru October.

                Mine is in the garage and I have vented it into my workshop/gym which is attached to the garage.
                I would be running mine constantly in the winter to supply heat to the floor piping. So I’m wondering if venting outside or to the garage would help keep the house warmer. And setting it up like Ampster to intake air from the attic would make it more efficient too.

                Comment

                • mjs020294
                  Member
                  • Nov 2021
                  • 76

                  #9
                  Originally posted by df0rster
                  So does it have an inlet and an outlet vent option? I could see using attic heat in the summer for sure. But In winter my attic gets pretty cold. It might be just a few degrees warmer than outside in cold months.
                  Yes there is an inlet and output. You can buy kits for both and duct them. I only needed an outlet kit because the unit is in the garage which is about 90f several months a year.

                  Comment

                  • mjs020294
                    Member
                    • Nov 2021
                    • 76

                    #10
                    Originally posted by df0rster

                    I would be running mine constantly in the winter to supply heat to the floor piping. So I’m wondering if venting outside or to the garage would help keep the house warmer. And setting it up like Ampster to intake air from the attic would make it more efficient too.
                    The unit exhausts cold air, usually about 15f colder than the intake.

                    Comment

                    • bcroe
                      Solar Fanatic
                      • Jan 2012
                      • 5199

                      #11
                      Originally posted by df0rster
                      I'd like to keep the average to about 25kwh per day or less as my new panels will cover that.
                      25KWh is almost exactly equal to burning 1 gallon of propane in a high efficiency furnace.
                      But you can multiply that several times by using a Heat Pump. Chose your HP to have
                      a very low temp minimum, all mine are more than a dozen degrees F below zero. Yes
                      the COP drops to about the same as resistance heat at the absolute lowest, but picks
                      up fast with warmer temps.

                      I am wondering if heating the floor is really an eficient way to heat a shop. I use an air
                      to air unit year around, 18000 BTU/hour manages 60F for at least 10 months a year,
                      staying well above freezing when it is below zero outside. Moderate insulation, 1000
                      sq ft. Bruce Roe

                      Comment

                      • Ampster
                        Solar Fanatic
                        • Jun 2017
                        • 3650

                        #12
                        Originally posted by df0rster
                        So does it have an inlet and an outlet vent option? I could see using attic heat in the summer for sure. But In winter my attic gets pretty cold. It might be just a few degrees warmer than outside in cold months.

                        Yes, they are six or eight inch. During the day in the winter my attic is generally at least a few degrees warmer than outside.
                        9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012

                        Comment

                        • df0rster
                          Solar Fanatic
                          • Jun 2018
                          • 127

                          #13
                          Originally posted by bcroe

                          25KWh is almost exactly equal to burning 1 gallon of propane in a high efficiency furnace.
                          But you can multiply that several times by using a Heat Pump. Chose your HP to have
                          a very low temp minimum, all mine are more than a dozen degrees F below zero. Yes
                          the COP drops to about the same as resistance heat at the absolute lowest, but picks
                          up fast with warmer temps.

                          I am wondering if heating the floor is really an eficient way to heat a shop. I use an air
                          to air unit year around, 18000 BTU/hour manages 60F for at least 10 months a year,
                          staying well above freezing when it is below zero outside. Moderate insulation, 1000
                          sq ft. Bruce Roe
                          The floor heat is in my house. The shop is just where my new solar equipment will be located. I do have window ac units in the shop. This little project is not really to save money, just to have warm floors in the winter and cool the shop in the summer.

                          heating the house with radiant floor heat even using a heat pump water heater won’t be as efficient as our existing geothermal heat pump. It’s just way more comfortable on a slab house. It was also very cheap to install the pex in the slab when we built.

                          So when you say several times on the heat pump does that mean 25kwh is really more like 50 or 100kwh of resistance heating? Even if it is only 2x then that would be plenty to heat my floors. I did see the green claims 4x as efficient as traditional resistance.




                          Comment

                          • PNPmacnab
                            Solar Fanatic
                            • Nov 2016
                            • 425

                            #14
                            You can multiply that with a heat pump, but..............
                            Considering you can only get about 600W into a heat pump water heater, it is going to take a few! That is kinda expensive and an elaborate a system. And where does that heat come from.

                            I heat water with resistance PV "efficiently" by keeping it at power point with electronics. It can be low cost and respond instantly to changing clouds. No costly batteries inverters or charge controllers. My cost is only the panels. Considering the simplicity, access to cheap used panels and if there is space, it is not such a bad option. And you can always do something else with that power in the summer. It is simply a math/engineering problem. I designed a system for a guy in Lithuania doing concrete floor hydronic heating with 1400W of panels. Seemed pretty low and he was only trying to heat a little. I've never heard back.

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                            • Ampster
                              Solar Fanatic
                              • Jun 2017
                              • 3650

                              #15
                              Originally posted by PNPmacnab
                              You can multiply that with a heat pump, but..............
                              Considering you can only get about 600W into a heat pump water heater, it is going to take a few! That is kinda expensive and an elaborate a system. And where does that heat come from.

                              I heat water with resistance PV "efficiently" by keeping it at power point with electronics. It can be low cost and respond instantly to changing clouds. .....
                              Earlier it was posted that the Rheem heat pump water heater could produce 4200 btu per hour. At 3.4 btu per Watt that is 1200 Watts. Yes they are expensive but since they transfer heat from surrounding air they use about one third the energy of a resistive element. Depending on the cost of electricity that can pay back the cost in a few years. Another way to look at it is that it will produce three times the btus compared to resistive elements.
                              I am not saying you are wrong to choose resistive heat. It is a user decision based on cost of electricity or other factors. It all depends on where you are standing.
                              Last edited by Ampster; 03-02-2022, 12:11 PM.
                              9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012

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