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  • sdhomeowner
    Junior Member
    • Sep 2015
    • 14

    #16
    Not sure if we are using the same definition of surface mount, but..

    Quick mount definitely makes a product that is applied to an existing comp shingle roof. It does require the removal of nails when tucking the flashing in, so it's probably a good idea to shoot some sealant in there to fill the nail hole.

    Comment

    • sensij
      Solar Fanatic
      • Sep 2014
      • 5074

      #17
      Originally posted by SanDiego_installer
      Re-papering now is cheap insurance and eligible for the tax credit.
      Do you have IRS guidance that supports this? Results from an audit perhaps?
      CS6P-260P/SE3000 - http://tiny.cc/ed5ozx

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      • blulegend
        Junior Member
        • Oct 2018
        • 5

        #18
        Originally posted by solarix
        Imho the solar industry is going overboard on roofing practices when using flashed footings. I've posted about this subject before if you search for it.

        True - Flashed mounts for roof penetrations are standard, but the roofing industry defines penetration as a plumbing vent, electical conduit, skylight, solar tube, etc. Not nails and screws. A surface mount fastened into the roof framing makes a compression seal that will outlast any roof. Go ahead and spend lots on flashed footings if it will make you sleep better at night, but I have thousands and thousands of L-feet out there and not one problem so far. I've done jobs where our leasing company (and their paranoid "financing partner" masters) have used flashed footings at the same time roofers were working on other parts of the roof and they just laugh.... The roofing industry figured out long ago how to waterproof a roof economically without going to extravagant means.

        BTW, if you do put in flashings and in the process of inserting them up to the second shingle course above the mount, you pull out nails (as specified by QuickMount in their instructions) - you just violated your roof's warranty.
        My installer has installed UniRac SolarHook Flat AT1 hooks on our flat concrete tile roof in Southern California. They used M-1 sealant in the pilot holes and no deck flashing. Some of the hooks rest on the "downstream" tiles. Some have tile replacement flashings over them, others the original tile. Can the lags ever become loose over time or the paper/felt crack around the contact area? The permit called for Quick Mount Quick Hooks with the flashing and I'm trying to decide if I want them to replace as permitted. I understand that the compression seal is pretty good, but I've seen cracked and torn underlayment on old roofs before so worry about no sub flashing. I'm also concerned about the significantly lower compressive and shear tolerances the Solar Hooks have compared to the Quick Hooks in terms of the array chattering in the wind or the Solar Hooks cracking tiles by resting right on some of them. What are your thoughts on these things? Thanks.
        Last edited by blulegend; 10-16-2018, 01:13 PM.

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        • J.P.M.
          Solar Fanatic
          • Aug 2013
          • 14926

          #19
          Originally posted by blulegend

          My installer has installed Solar Hook S-hooks on our flat concrete tile roof in Southern California. They used M-1 sealant in the pilot holes and no deck flashing. Some of the hooks rest on the "downstream" tiles. Some have tile replacement flashings over them, others the original tile. Can the lags ever become loose over time or the paper/felt crack around the contact area? The permit called for Quick Mount Quick Hooks with the flashing and I'm trying to decide if I want them to replace as permitted. I understand that the compression seal is pretty good, but I've seen cracked and torn underlayment on old roofs before so worry about no sub flashing. I'm also concerned about the significantly lower compressive and shear tolerances the Solar Hooks have compared to the Quick Hooks in terms of the array chattering in the wind or the Solar Hooks cracking tiles by resting right on some of them. What are your thoughts on these things? Thanks.
          IMO only, your concerns are well founded. If done correctly, posts and double flashing help avoid reliance on sealants/caulking/etc. to maintain their integrity over time. Can posts/double flashing fail ? You betcha. But tried and true flaching techniques that have worked and stayed leak tight since I was a kid, partly by reliance on gravity and keeping penetrations "uphill" and covered helps me sleep at night. More costly ? You betcha. Better ? Yup. Cheaper than chasing and fixing a more likely leak. Yup.

          There's lots of places to cheap out in home remodeling. Roof integrity and roof penetrations are about the last place to do that - in spite of the assurances of those with skin in the game. "We've never had a leak" logic and claims mean little if they haven't had time to stand the test of time. Just count me cynical about such claims from those with skin in the game and easy access to ways to duck responsibility and consequences. Well (double) flashed standard penetrations have the best chance of not leaking for as long as the array lasts. What's that worth to you ?

          Take what you want of the above. Scrap the rest.

          Comment

          • solarix
            Super Moderator
            • Apr 2015
            • 1415

            #20
            The trouble with Tile Hooks in general is that they are made for a fixed amount of clearance to the roof whereas the thickness of roof tiles (and the thickness of the batten boards can vary quite a bit and it is easy to have the hooks not fit your particular tile. I prefer the Tile-track system which does need a hole drilled in the tile, but all in all a stong, reliable system that works in all situations.

            BSEE, R11, NABCEP, Chevy BoltEV, >3000kW installed

            Comment

            • blulegend
              Junior Member
              • Oct 2018
              • 5

              #21
              Originally posted by solarix
              The trouble with Tile Hooks in general is that they are made for a fixed amount of clearance to the roof whereas the thickness of roof tiles (and the thickness of the batten boards can vary quite a bit and it is easy to have the hooks not fit your particular tile. I prefer the Tile-track system which does need a hole drilled in the tile, but all in all a stong, reliable system that works in all situations.
              Thanks! I see the downsides with them, but I'm pretty sure we don't have battens. Just tiles, nailed into the roof sheathing.

              If there isn't a significant quality difference and not worth the risk, I'm considering letting them keep the SolarHooks. But from everything I've read, a properly flashed QuickHook is the way to go if hooks are used. I'm also deciding if a more contemporary approach to the "compression seal" is also good enough.

              Certainly, if more sealant is added around the base of the footing and built up a little, maybe it would help shed water like a flashing would and prevent seepage and rot under the footing. But again, a flashing seems better at preventing this.

              We are in Southern California so there isn't that much rain, but there is a "rainy season" and the wind-blown rain or subtropical storms can be intense at times.

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