Things to watch out for during solar install?

[gvl]

Net metering is 20yrs. If you already known you need the roof job done in 10 to 12yrs, why not do it now? The interest you generate in next 10 to 12 yrs isn't enough to cover the labor remove/re-install those panels. Just ask your solar installer how much will they charge you to remove and re-install all your solar panels. If you hire a 3rd party to do the job within next 10 yrs, will your original installer honoring the warranty when someone else remove/re-install the panels? Keep it simple.

My installer says they do it for free for their customers Wish them to stay in business next 20 years. Seriously, what's the going rate for this?

[gvl]

It's a gamble. A roof may never leak, or it may never leak as a result of the penetrations added by a solar array. However, if it does leak over, say, the next 10-15+ years, you may very well need to remove a good portion of that panels - maybe half or more, fix the leak and replace the panels. I don't think that would be cheap. While doing this, you'd be smart to at least replace the paper under the tile and reflash as necessary/prudent. All this will probably be done in a hurry by roofers who know little, if anything about PV - and you hope they get the reinstall right.

Not a counterargument but I've seen new roofs leak as well. That would really hurt.

[J.P.M.]

Not a counterargument but I've seen new roofs leak as well. That would really hurt.

Like I wrote, it's a gamble. I've seen old roofs that never leak. Pay your money, take your choice. As I read your first post on this thread,you were asking what to look out for.

Take what you want. Scrap the rest.

[gvl]

Like I wrote, it's a gamble. I've seen old roofs that never leak. Pay your money, take your choice. As I read your first post on this thread,you were asking what to look out for.

Take what you want. Scrap the rest.

Advice taken, at the very minimum I'm going to get an independent 3rd party opinion about the condition of my roof.

[Robocheme1]

Advice taken, at the very minimum I'm going to get an independent 3rd party opinion about the condition of my roof.

I needed to replace my 25 YO composite roof before my solar install.

What was interesting was that the installer favored installing his brackets to the bare plywood and rafters and not to the rafters through the shingles. He was honest and said that that way any leakage problems is on the roofer.

Surprisingly, the roofer preferred this and accepted the added responsibility.

The only issue is that there has to be some scheduling coordination.

[gvl]

Today I had my site assessed, they sent a guy in his 20's or early 30's who sounded like he's been around the industry for some time but he's definitely not a roofer. Based on his input my installer says that I have "presidential 50 year" roof and there is no need to do anything about it right now. Is this looking like a 15y/o 50 year roof?

[J.P.M.]

I needed to replace my 25 YO composite roof before my solar install.

What was interesting was that the installer favored installing his brackets to the bare plywood and rafters and not to the rafters through the shingles. He was honest and said that that way any leakage problems is on the roofer.

Surprisingly, the roofer preferred this and accepted the added responsibility.

The only issue is that there has to be some scheduling coordination.

I'd suggest any leakage is on the party that caused it. I'm not a roofer but I can think of several reasons why I'd not go through the shingles either - one being that's why God make vertical post and flashing systems. Another being it's probably easier to locate rafters.

[dusty144]

It is hard to tell the condition of a roof from a few pictures but there are no 50 year roofs. Manufacturers say that to sell the product, what a shock, but they hope that after 20-30 years the owners have moved on and things are forgotten. It does appear to be a fiberglass roof which is a plus over the old tar paper shingles which failed a lot.

Are there any hail damage areas. There appears to be at least 3 hail damage type spots I can see. 10 hail spots and your roof is toast per insurance, at least in my area.

As the owner walk the roof, are there any soft areas, any creaks. So many time folks forget that the cover board underneath is the real roof and the shingles are just the weathering layer. Roof galvanizing if you will.
Does it look like the old roof is still down there, sometimes folks simply shingle over existing roofs.
Is the flashing in good shape. Galvanized metal won't last more than 10-15 years and this is a good time to replace flashing.
Are there any vents, chimneys you would like to move to get better coverage, avoid shading. You do all this a lot better if you re-roof.
Also Lay out the pattern 'you' want. I can guarantee you won't like the layout the company folks will assemble on your roof.

BTW absolutely attach to the rafters, never to the cover board/OSB. OSB is not a structural panel and will fail under point loads.

[gvl]

What's OSB? Hail is not very common here in CA. The roof is of the "installer's dream" kind, I don't think there is much of a choice for a pattern.

[scansat]

Osb

OSB is Oriented Strand Board. It's the decking that is fastened to your trusses/rafters to form your roof. It's what the shingles are nailed to.

[dusty144]

OSB (oriented Strand Board) is technically your roof and it is now 15 years old. Its a wood product sitting up there baking in the heat for 15 years. Do you think it can sit up there another 15-25 years? I think you are doing all the right steps but ultimately it is your roof and your decision. The fact that you are taking time to ask these questions means that you are putting in more effort than the vast majority of folks, so any decision you make is an informed decision.
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It is not always possible but a good PV pattern should work with the look and layout of the house. This will add a bit more value to your house and is usually simple enough to organize.

Couple of things with your pattern.

- PV is not allowed above vents in my area. Not even with clearances. I'm not sure why but my AHJ said so. It might be worth a quick phone call to your AHJ.
- It is also useful to lay your panels in clean rectangular patterns. I have found that it is real important to allow a walking lane between every 2 rows so you can get to any panel without disassembling the entire array.
- Also it is good to work out the entry point for your combiner box into the attic and then work back from there, rather than putting your panels in and then trying to make the entry.
- You should also check on any potential shading and direction of the shadows. The panel orientation may be affected by that.

Many more things to consider but these were a few that struck me.

[gvl]

Is OSB same thing as plywood? Good catch about the vent. Even if code allows I probably don't want a panel above it. A walking line is definitely a good idea, I'll ask my installer to change the plan. Hopefully it is not a lot more work for them to lay out with a walking line. The lower half of the roof is above a vaulted ceiling in the living room (the space w/o panels on the diagram above the chimney on the lower right), I probably want to put as few panels there as possible.

Here is how someone in my neighborhood did it. Pretty much the same home model as mine. A nice modestly-sized 50-panel array

[inetdog]

Is OSB same thing as plywood?

Each layer in plywood is a continuous or spliced single piece of wood. The grain alternates between plies to provide uniform strength in all directions. It requires large pieces of wood to start.
and an
Particle board is essentially sawdust with an adhesive matrix to hold it together. Much weaker than plywood since is can be made from essentially all of the leftover scrap wood from milling operations and from small trees. It has almost no strength in tension, does not hold screws well and is very dense and therefore heavy. It is hard to make it water resistant.

Oriented Strand Board is the kind where you see a layer of random shaped irregular thin chunks of wood instead of continuous veneer or sawdust.
It has mechanical characteristics in between the other two types of board.

[gvl]

Each layer in plywood is a continuous or spliced single piece of wood. The grain alternates between plies to provide uniform strength in all directions. It requires large pieces of wood to start.
and an
Particle board is essentially sawdust with an adhesive matrix to hold it together. Much weaker than plywood since is can be made from essentially all of the leftover scrap wood from milling operations and from small trees. It has almost no strength in tension, does not hold screws well and is very dense and therefore heavy. It is hard to make it water resistant.

Oriented Strand Board is the kind where you see a layer of random shaped irregular thin chunks of wood instead of continuous veneer or sawdust.
It has mechanical characteristics in between the other two types of board.

Thanks, it is just for some reason I thought they used plywood under the shingles, probably not anymore for cost reasons.

[gvl]

You guys made me consider a ground mount instead. New thread here: http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/showth...unt-vs-rooftop