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If this is part of a weight supporting truss or beam and you're worried about it, maybe you can find some flat metal brace(s) that has teeth on it and nail it into the wood where the crack is to help improve support and keep the crack from spreading. Of course care should be taken in nailing the brace(s) in as to not cause the crack to spread further due to the pounding impact.
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NABCEP certified Technical Sales Professional
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[URL="http://www.gaisma.com"]www.gaisma.com[/URL]Comment
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Tried to upload a picture, but its 2.3 megs and the forum tells me its in excess of the file size I'm allowed to upload. I'm posting a link to a site that I uploaded my picture to (hopefully that is ok and not against forum rules).
Here is the picture: http://tinypic.com/r/11tq2ip/5
You can see on the right the 'square' - that's where an old vent of mine that needed to be moved was located. The crack runs from the top of that to the right (could not fit it all in one picture).
As always, appreciate you guys helping me out. If this is allowed, I'd also like to post a picture of how they setup my 3 inverters to get your thoughts.Comment
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If you're talking about the dark line on the panel that runs across the whole picture horizontally, and the dark stuff is the underlayment as seen through the crack, I wouldn't be too concerned. Maybe put some caulk on it to seal it up, but it doesn't seem to be a structural concern to me. If it were a crack on the supporting beam (which doesn't look like the case here), I'd be more concerned.
I can't help but notice that the underpanel on the top of the picture looks quite dark and charred, like it's been burned or something. Just curious what's going on there?Comment
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No crack in the beams...I'm talking about the crack in the wood of the roof (going from right to left across the picture). Maybe its not a big deal if its not standing out to you.
Not sure what you mean about wood that is dark and charred. The light up there isn't great, but its a new house (5 years old) and no damage up there.Comment
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There does seem to be a crack that runs along the wood. Not sure how it got there. You might be able to caulk it with some type of wood sealant. There is something in a can that can be sprayed out which will fill a gap with foam and then harden.
I believe the "charred wood" Volusiano is referring to is really the aluminum surface of an air duct insulation.Comment
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That's correct...appreciate the responses.
Here are the inverters, sub panel, bypass/shutoff, etc. they setup in my currently unfinished basement. Looks neat and clean to me, but I've never really seen how it is supposed to be setup, so let me know what you think.
Left side - http://tinypic.com/r/33tjayq/5
Right side - http://tinypic.com/r/29wobc9/5Comment
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Looks very neat and clean and professionally done to me, too. I wonder what the 2 boxes above the sub circuit panel (just to the right of the main panel from our view) are for.
Also, it looks like these inverters have a power outlet on each of them. I'm guessing they have the feature that provides backup power (through those outlets) in case you have a power outage, right?Comment
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The white box on top is my alarm system panel - sorry should have mentioned that before. The little grouping of wires to the left of the main panel is for my phone lines (I have to make changes each time I switch between Direct TV and Verizon to Cablevision Optimum).
Everything else is from my Solar installation. The small little box to the right of the main panel is the wireless connection between the inverters and my router. Not really yet sure what anything else is
They tell me they will explain it all once the install is complete.
Yes, these are the SMA transformerless inverters that have an outlet I can use during an outage. I believe I got 3 4000s, to go along with my 58 ReneSola 250W Mono Panels.Comment
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Cool. I have one of those SMA 4000TL inverters myself in my configuration (along with a 7K one with transformer). They didn't wire out a power outlet from it for me, though. Didn't even mention that it was an option to me. I only learned about that functionality here on this forum. But it's no big deal. We rarely have outages here where we live anyway.
I assume that they ran the numbers through the Sunny Design Web site to show you that there should be no or minimal clipping even though the combined 3x4=12kw set of inverters is a little undersized for your 14.5 KW STC panel configuration?Comment
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Looks pretty clean to me too.
We have a 8000-US and 3000tL . The 3000 has the 1500w plug. We actually could have used it a few weeks ago when there was a random outage during the day. Luckily it only lasted two hours.
Do you have 3 different orientations and hence why you need three inverters?Comment
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My mistake above...they actually gave me a 5000, and 4000, and a 3000. Still adds up to 12k, but its not 3 4000s. Its a prepaid lease through CPF, where they guarantee output per year.
I believe the 5000 has 2 strings of 12 panels on it, the 4000 has a string of 12 and a string of 6, and the 3000 has 2 strings of 8 - I'm guessing because of my roof configuration. Most of my panels face east or west at a 30% pitch, with a few south facing. So yes, 3 orientations.Comment
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