pv system connected to sub-panel

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  • McMac
    replied
    Originally posted by Jest Waitn

    firstly, thank everyone for the responses. it is good to be supported!

    yes, this is a sub panel to a shed that was demolished last year. presently only the slab remains. the shed had an indoor sub panel; i replaced it with an outdoor one. the 3-conductor wire from the primary load center is rather thick, about 1/4" each strand, probably 2 gauge stranded wire. this new sub panel (cutler-hammer ch8L125rp) only has connections for supply and return. no ground connection is present.

    the inspector (AHJ) said it is ok to wire the pv system to a sub panel. don't recall if the 3-wire condition was mentioned, but it is shown in the power diagram provided for the permit. this is what i plan to implement: powerdiagram.pdf

    this pv system will be frame mounted, not on a roof. this is the first of 3 arrays, for an estimated total of 9kw ac, 3kw ac each array, 12 panels each array, 12 enphase m250 micro-inverters each array. so the maximum continuous output on this will be 36 amps, eventually.


    I couldn't view your drawing so let me just make you aware of a couple things based on what I've gathered here.

    off the cuff, 36A should be fine in terms of voltage drop. even if its aluminum you are probably around a 2Vac drop and just over 100ft. thats still under 1%. Industry standard is 1% DC Loss and 2% AC loss. but definitely dont want to be over 5% cause you start to make the inverter want to crank up the voltage to overcome the added impedance in order to back feed the grid. The inverter has to stay at 240V + or - 10% and therefore it shuts down above 264V.

    However, you are going to run into a problem with the 120 rule, 705.12(D). 2011 said sum of breaker ratings of the back feed and main OCD can be over 120% of the busbar rating and only IF (now this is a big 'IF') the back feed OCD is at the furthest position from the main OCD. but then 2014 said that you need to use 125% of the inverter output plus the main OCD rating to get your sum that can go 120% over the the bus ampacity still with the same big 'IF'. So what does that mean for you? Thought youd never ask .

    ...2011...
    back feed breaker + main breaker cant equal more than 120% of bus.

    ...at the sub
    125A busbar x 1.20 = 150A Allowable. So our sum cant be more than 150A here.

    36A would need 40A breaker. assuming 125A main breaker thats a sum of 165A
    Option 1. Downsize main breaker to 100A then you're golden here but maybe not at the main, we'll see when we get there get there. Don't forget to apply the appropriate label.
    Option 2. Line Tap. I just use polaris blocks to tap the feeders right above the main breaker. Done it a lot and never had a single AHJ question it. But you need to make there is still an OCPD for the wire. now that can come from your AC combiner being a main breaker if it is less than 4ft from lug to lug (don't quote me on that distance) but best practice is to just use a fused disconnect and size the fuses for your wire. This puts your OCP even closer to the interconnection.

    ...at the main
    200A x 1.20 = 240A Allowable
    Well for all intensive purposes we have turned the 100 amp supply breaker for the sub-panel into a back feed breaker. If AHJ is on 2011 but has a head on his shoulders he will use the 40A that you probably use for OCP to get a sum of 240A and then your fine. And the same should apply for the line tap too.


    ...2014...
    inverter current x 1.25 + main breaker cant equal more than 120% of bus.

    ...at the sub
    36 x 1.25 = 45A So this is still the same option set. You can downsize the main breaker in the sub to 100A or line tap to make this work. However, this is gonna bite us at the main...

    ...at the main
    200A bus x 1.2 = 240A Allowable
    at 125% of inverter current we are looking at 45A. now add the main breaker and we are 245A. No Go.

    Option 1. Downsize Main Breaker to 150A. you'll probably be fine with that but I don't know your loads. You could try to find a breaker in between but good luck. It wont be easy if you do.
    Option 2. Remove the subpanel feeders from the main panel into a junction box where you can splice then reroute them outside to a 100A fused disco w/ 100A fuse and then carry them back inside and into the main panel and line side tap for the interconnection. don't splice in the panel and go out to the disco cause then you've used your load center as a raceway and that is not allowed. once a wire is in the load center it must be terminated. so you can splice to make wires longer to reach a breaker but not to carry the conductor out of the load center cause then it would just be passing through.
    Option 3. Trench 120 feet to the house, hit the disco, then pop inside and make the interconnection.

    Leave a comment:


  • McMac
    replied
    Originally posted by Jest Waitn

    thanks. present total run is < 300' and this is mostly over thick service wire. pv array to sub panel < 100' at the longest point; this is over 12/3. i haven't measured voltage at the sub panel. will do this as soon as the rain is over (don't work with electricity outside when ground is wet).

    there is an option for an additional power drop onto the property for the pv system since the pv array is near the transformer. this would be < 75'. don't know how this would work by having pv on an account separate from the supply account. power company might consider this a mini power station.
    Having a meter to send power through and one the use power is often refered to as virtual net metering. but I havn't found a utility or coop in our area that will allow it. Tried to do it to save trenching a 70kw over 600ft but they wouldn't have it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jest Waitn
    replied
    Originally posted by Mike90250
    Be aware of "Line Loss" with these long runs from the solar, to main panel to utility pole or transformer. Any line loss will reflect a an increase in grid voltage, and at some point, the inverters start to shut down from overvoltage in your long line runs. Solution, shorter runs, heaver cable (or aluminum feed conductors)
    thanks. present total run is < 300' and this is mostly over thick service wire. pv array to sub panel < 100' at the longest point; this is over 12/3. i haven't measured voltage at the sub panel. will do this as soon as the rain is over (don't work with electricity outside when ground is wet).

    there is an option for an additional power drop onto the property for the pv system since the pv array is near the transformer. this would be < 75'. don't know how this would work by having pv on an account separate from the supply account. power company might consider this a mini power station.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike90250
    replied
    Be aware of "Line Loss" with these long runs from the solar, to main panel to utility pole or transformer. Any line loss will reflect a an increase in grid voltage, and at some point, the inverters start to shut down from overvoltage in your long line runs. Solution, shorter runs, heaver cable (or aluminum feed conductors)

    Leave a comment:


  • Jest Waitn
    replied
    Originally posted by tyab
    I'm assuming from the 120' distance that this is a detached structure like a garage or barn but it is possible in a large home to have this condition. Prior to 2008 It matters if detached or attached in relationship to the grounded conductor (neutral) and EGC. It also matters if you need a GEC at that subpanel. Lets say we are dealing with a detached setup.

    Current code covers this in NEC 250.142(B). That applies for any new construction or modifications to existing setups. Prior to 2008 it was allowed to have detached structures to have a 3 wire setup. They key is what is considered a modification and the absolute authority on this will be your AHJ. This is a common situation that your AHJ deals with and it would be best to have a chat with them about how they want this to be dealt with. Some will allow the existing setup, some may require you to bring that subpanel up to current code which would mean a 4 wire setup.

    If there is not one already, you may be required to run a GEC at that detached subpanel that follows 252.52 (and naturally 252.53). Ask your AHJ if they want that (some do, some don't).

    Regardless of what you have to do at the sub panel, you need to have a EGC from that sub panel to your array bonded to the other EGC's in the panel. That includes bonding to the EGC's from the micros. And the grounded conductors (neutrals) from the micros need to be run to that subpanel and bonded with the other neutrals.

    Your panel frames/rails need to have a GEC per 2014 690.47(D). This code section is dangerous on a structure and many AHJ's are not requiring it - and instead and just asking that be part of the EGC. Ask your AHJ if they want a code compliant 690.47(D) or if they want a safe setup. Lots of links on this issue with the best coming from Mike Holt.
    firstly, thank everyone for the responses. it is good to be supported!

    yes, this is a sub panel to a shed that was demolished last year. presently only the slab remains. the shed had an indoor sub panel; i replaced it with an outdoor one. the 3-conductor wire from the primary load center is rather thick, about 1/4" each strand, probably 2 gauge stranded wire. this new sub panel (cutler-hammer ch8L125rp) only has connections for supply and return. no ground connection is present.

    the inspector (AHJ) said it is ok to wire the pv system to a sub panel. don't recall if the 3-wire condition was mentioned, but it is shown in the power diagram provided for the permit. this is what i plan to implement: powerdiagram.pdf

    this pv system will be frame mounted, not on a roof. this is the first of 3 arrays, for an estimated total of 9kw ac, 3kw ac each array, 12 panels each array, 12 enphase m250 micro-inverters each array. so the maximum continuous output on this will be 36 amps, eventually.



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  • tyab
    replied
    I'm assuming from the 120' distance that this is a detached structure like a garage or barn but it is possible in a large home to have this condition. Prior to 2008 It matters if detached or attached in relationship to the grounded conductor (neutral) and EGC. It also matters if you need a GEC at that subpanel. Lets say we are dealing with a detached setup.

    Current code covers this in NEC 250.142(B). That applies for any new construction or modifications to existing setups. Prior to 2008 it was allowed to have detached structures to have a 3 wire setup. They key is what is considered a modification and the absolute authority on this will be your AHJ. This is a common situation that your AHJ deals with and it would be best to have a chat with them about how they want this to be dealt with. Some will allow the existing setup, some may require you to bring that subpanel up to current code which would mean a 4 wire setup.

    If there is not one already, you may be required to run a GEC at that detached subpanel that follows 252.52 (and naturally 252.53). Ask your AHJ if they want that (some do, some don't).

    Regardless of what you have to do at the sub panel, you need to have a EGC from that sub panel to your array bonded to the other EGC's in the panel. That includes bonding to the EGC's from the micros. And the grounded conductors (neutrals) from the micros need to be run to that subpanel and bonded with the other neutrals.

    Your panel frames/rails need to have a GEC per 2014 690.47(D). This code section is dangerous on a structure and many AHJ's are not requiring it - and instead and just asking that be part of the EGC. Ask your AHJ if they want a code compliant 690.47(D) or if they want a safe setup. Lots of links on this issue with the best coming from Mike Holt.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jest Waitn
    replied
    Originally posted by SunEagle

    There still should be an equipment ground wire at the sub-panel which may just be a bare copper wire connected to the back of the panel.
    there is nothing of the sort. this panel was installed circa 1990.

    Leave a comment:


  • solarix
    replied
    Your situation is not uncommon to have a subpanel erroneously wired with just one conductor for the neutral and ground. It seems that once upon a time, grounding wasn't the issue that it is now. By rights you need to add a ground from your main to your subpanel and separate the neutral and ground there in order to pass inspection - which you need to since you are doing solar. If you don't, you are risking a subtle but potentially dangerous fault condition where a short could occur and not be detected because you have multiple paths to ground.

    Leave a comment:


  • SunEagle
    replied
    Originally posted by Jest Waitn
    i am installing a pv system that connects to a sub-panel about 120' from the primary load center. the pv system micro-inverters initially connect to a cutoff/junction box at the array and then go to the sub-panel. 12-3 wire is used, which is 4 wires. the panel frames will be connected to an 8' ground rod.

    the sub-panel wiring from the primary load center only has 3 wires; neutral is bonded to ground at the primary load center.

    what do i do with the ground from the pv system? this is the 50
    There still should be an equipment ground wire at the sub-panel which may just be a bare copper wire connected to the back of the panel.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jest Waitn
    started a topic pv system connected to sub-panel

    pv system connected to sub-panel

    i am installing a pv system that connects to a sub-panel about 120' from the primary load center. the pv system micro-inverters initially connect to a cutoff/junction box at the array and then go to the sub-panel. 12-3 wire is used, which is 4 wires. the panel frames will be connected to an 8' ground rod.

    the sub-panel wiring from the primary load center only has 3 wires; neutral is bonded to ground at the primary load center.

    what do i do with the ground from the pv system? this is the 50
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