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  • #31
    Originally posted by -TX- View Post
    Thank you two for your concerns. For your enjoyment https://www.amazon.com/forum/-/Tx3R7...sin=B00DQC6Z6M
    OK time to shoot myself as I have seen everyting. 12 volt 10 Kw Inverter.

    Now what is really funny is the #12 Screws to terminate the DC Terminals to. I cannot help but to laugh and wonder where on earth the sucker is going to find wire rated for 1000 amps. Largest wire you can buy is 750 MCM and with 90 degree insulation is good up to 535 amps so you would need to 2 sets in parallel. If you have never seen 750 MCM cable is the diameter of your wrist and wieghs roughly 7-pounds per linear foot. It takes a pipe bender or gorilla to bend it. Just imaging 4 pieces of it at 5-feet long or 20 linear feet weighing in at 140 pounds under a # 12 screw.

    I think now you see the issue. To give you an idea of how large 750 MCM cable is below is a picture of it on cable reel. Those reels are 6-foot in diameter and 4-fool in width.

    Last edited by Sunking; 02-27-2017, 10:08 AM.
    MSEE, PE

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    • #32
      Not so, says poster RJGould "I never read provided literature, so couldn't tell you the factory recommendation. I run a 75amp blow fuse on mine!"

      20k peak power for 20 milliseconds. Not surprised that UL won't rate it.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by -TX- View Post
        Not so, says poster RJGould "I never read provided literature, so couldn't tell you the factory recommendation. I run a 75amp blow fuse on mine!"

        20k peak power for 20 milliseconds. Not surprised that UL won't rate it.
        I like this suggestion from the Seller:

        "Answer:
        You will need two 500 AMP INLINE FUSE KIT WITH 4/0 AWG JUMPER. "

        500 amp fuse for an inverter that needs 1000 amp and 4/0 wire rated for less than half the fuse

        And then this one also from the Seller:

        "You can use a 12volt battery but you may not get much run time. The duration will depend on the amp draw from the air conditioner. We recommend a 200 amp hour 12 volt battery. Our part # 6FM200H. "

        OutBack FP1 w/ CS6P-250P http://bit.ly/1Sg5VNH

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        • #34
          Originally posted by -TX- View Post
          Not so, says poster RJGould "I never read provided literature, so couldn't tell you the factory recommendation. I run a 75amp blow fuse on mine!"

          20k peak power for 20 milliseconds. Not surprised that UL won't rate it.
          Why spend the money on a 12v 20kw peak load inverter if you plan on using a load that will blow a 75 amp fuse? Seems like a waste to me.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by SunEagle View Post

            Why spend the money on a 12v 20kw peak load inverter if you plan on using a load that will blow a 75 amp fuse? Seems like a waste to me.
            It is the Spinal Tap effect on inverters. These inverters go to 11.
            OutBack FP1 w/ CS6P-250P http://bit.ly/1Sg5VNH

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            • #36
              Originally posted by SunEagle View Post

              Why spend the money on a 12v 20kw peak load inverter if you plan on using a load that will blow a 75 amp fuse? Seems like a waste to me.
              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnsiZOJjfUg

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              • #37
                Originally posted by SunEagle View Post
                First off you need to make sure each parallel "string" is fused properly in the combiner box.

                Next you really should perform a voltage drop calculation for the longest "round trip" run based on the Vmp & Imp of the 2 series wired panels of that string and make sure it is less than 2%.

                So what is the spec for each 165 watt panel? Vmp, Voc, Imp, Isc.

                If the Voc is 22.81v then my guess is that each panel has a Vmp ~ 18v and an Imp ~ 9amps so it is very possible that #6 wire should work on the 10 meter run for a pair of those panels.
                I received the combiner today and it came with Ferraz Shawmut fuse holders so I'll be able to do as you recommend. Real solid box that I'll have to drill out, but a unibit and only $80 spent has me pretty happy. Question: On an RV should I be grounding each panel or is that overkill?

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by -TX- View Post

                  I received the combiner today and it came with Ferraz Shawmut fuse holders so I'll be able to do as you recommend. Real solid box that I'll have to drill out, but a unibit and only $80 spent has me pretty happy. Question: On an RV should I be grounding each panel or is that overkill?
                  Grounding the panel frames to the RV frame makes it all a "common" point which is really not that important since it is a vehicle which moves. If your system was a fixed ground or building mount then grounding the frames would be important.

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                  • #39
                    Gotcha. Thanks.

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                    • #40
                      We used copper busbar for such things at work. Cross section area of some square feet possible.
                      Bruce Roe
                      Last edited by bcroe; 03-05-2017, 03:40 PM.

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                      • #41
                        I wanted to do that but Suneagle recommended the panels be fused instead. Box was cheap and fuses cheaper, and I got no problem doing it as well as it can be done.

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                        • #42
                          May I get an opinion on how bad this shadow is? I know it's bad, but to resolve it I'll either have to go with 9 panels instead of 10, or lay each one flat. Both of those options must be worse than having 10 seasonally angled panels, albeit one of them at half power. How really bad is it? Will it kill its string or just lose 50% of its amperage?

                          The panel is the width of the Topoint 190's

                          20170306_113836.jpg

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                          • #43
                            Depends on the panel. Some of them are wired so you would only lose 1/3 of the cells (those that are in the shade). Others panels would lose half or 100% of the panel which could shut down the entire string it is wired in series with. One of the reasons to stay away from any type of shading if possible.

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                            • #44
                              Unfortunately, SEP told me pretty much the same. Isn't there a way I can determine how that panel will function?

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                              • #45
                                Your 72 cell panel (I'm assuming 72 cells) ,if placed with its long side against the air conditioner SHOULD lose 1/3 of its output if not too heavily shaded. If series wired you will lose more than just that 1/3rd. Being a 24 volt panel, you don't need to series wire these panels for a 12 volt system and your MPPT controller.
                                2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024

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