Best method for routing ground wire into the building to main panel?

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  • foo1bar
    Solar Fanatic
    • Aug 2014
    • 1833

    #1

    Best method for routing ground wire into the building to main panel?

    What is the best method to get the ground wire into the building?

    I'm planning on doing a microinverter (enphase M250) setup.
    GEC isn't needed, but an EGC is required for the racking and modules.
    Option 1 is to drill a hole big enough for #10 wire in bottom of the j-box and connect to the ground inside there. (con: makes it no longer waterproof)
    Option 2 is to run #10 across the roof, around the gutter and down the outside of the wall. (con: ugly IMO)

    There's got to be a better way to do it.

    I'm tentatively planning on using #10, since the extra #4 copper I have laying around is too big for the WEEB lugs. (Unless someone can point me to ones that take #4 copper)
  • MGE
    Solar Fanatic
    • Feb 2013
    • 152

    #2
    Double check on the size of the ground wire your using. Here in San Diego #8 is minimum for bonding and grounding and yes they will fit on the bonding lugs for the rails, panels, and micros. Just run the ground wire in the same conduit as your feeder wires back to the panel and go out bottom of panel to ground rod. As far as running your bonding conductor into your j-boxes just install it in the same connector as your trunk cable coming from your panels/micros and silicone the outside so no water gets in. Don't forget to use an irreversible splice on the ground wire (Permanent crimp). Good luck.

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    • wrlsguy
      Junior Member
      • Jul 2014
      • 27

      #3
      I used #6 bare/solid for my GEC on the roof with M215s. The city of Irvine required #6 or larger. I ran it into the bottom of the jbox and sealed it with silicone, and made an irreversible splice inside to a stranded #8 from the ground that ran through conduit with the other wires, partially through the attic.
      4kW DC solar w/microinverters, Chevy Volt

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      • kwilcox
        Solar Fanatic
        • Jul 2014
        • 136

        #4
        I have the new M215 inverters with IG so no GEC requirement for me either. My array connects to its own generation meter (in WI, meters can't run backwards). Neutral/EGC for the array are bonded at this meter. For the EGC, my contractor ran #8 THHN from the meter to a lug on a soladeck rooftop junction box. This box provides all through-the-roof wiring and also houses the array's SPDs. From that soladeck grounding lug, he continued the #8 to the enphase trunk cable junction box on the array. He also ran bare copper from the soladeck ground lug to grounding lugs on each roof rack. Here's some shots of this:



        4KW system featuring Suniva OPT265/Enphase M215

        Comment

        • foo1bar
          Solar Fanatic
          • Aug 2014
          • 1833

          #5
          Originally posted by MGE
          Double check on the size of the ground wire your using. Here in San Diego #8 is minimum for bonding and grounding
          I believe that #10 is sufficient size for an EGC since #10 is the conductors.
          No GEC needed since it's an "ungrounded" installation. (#8 would be needed if it were a grounded array)
          In any case, the ground wire size will be part of the plans I'll submit to the AHJ.

          Originally posted by MGE
          and yes they will fit on the bonding lugs for the rails, panels, and micros.
          #4 solid is what I have extra of - and that doesn't fit. (or at least I haven't found the right lug where it does fit)

          Just run the ground wire in the same conduit as your feeder wires back to the panel and go out bottom of panel to ground rod. As far as running your bonding conductor into your j-boxes just install it in the same connector as your trunk cable coming from your panels/micros and silicone the outside so no water gets in. Don't forget to use an irreversible splice on the ground wire (Permanent crimp). Good luck.
          EGC doesn't require irreversible splice - only GEC does, so I can just wire-nut the grounds (and it's an easy connection to the ground/common bar in the main breaker box)

          Running the ground wire out a cable gland along with conductors, and then caulking it does give me a 3rd option. Probably the best one at this point.

          Comment

          • sdold
            Moderator
            • Jun 2014
            • 1457

            #6
            Originally posted by foo1bar
            I believe that #10 is sufficient size for an EGC since #10 is the conductors.
            Not 100% sure this applies here, but NEC 250.120(C) seems to say that it needs to be #6 or larger unless it's in a raceway or protected from physical damage. I noticed that everyone seemed to be using #6, so I tried to find a reason and that's all I came up with. Maybe the panels could provide the "protection" for smaller wire?

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