Let your loads dictate the size and scale of your system. A good general rule of thumb is if your loads are never more than 1000W then 12V if OK. If less than 2000W, then 24V, and more than 2000W, then 48V. I've built all three. Currently I'm operating a 24V system with 2000W of solar for my workshop, and a 48V system with 4500W of solar for my main cabin. 24V would have been good enough for most household items, but I designed my cabin to run my 240V well pump, which it does very well.
I would recommend you start out with lead-acid. Don't worry about the 50% depletion issue. It is so much easier to scale lead-acid that you can double the capacity and still pay far less than Li. When working with lead, you can literally scale a single string from 100Ah to 2500Ah, depending on what what batteries you buy.
When scaling for your loads, look at the max discharge the batteries will take. Let's say you want to run a 2000W load on your 48V system. You don't want to drain the batteries at more than 1/10 of their capacity. The math would work out to be...
(2000W/48V system voltage) / 0.1C discharge rate =416Ah. So, a battery of about 400-420Ah would work fine. A 6V Trojan L-16 fits nicely. Rolls also makes 6-8 batteries in this size range.
You can multiple that number by the days of autonomy you want, to account for rainy days when there's no solar.
Now, determine how big an array you need to keep this battery charged. Let's say you went with the 400Ah battery. The math would be....
400Ah X 0.125C charge rate X 52V charging X 1.25X losscorrectionfactor = 3250W of solar panels.
As a general rule of thumb, I use the 2X rule for most of things I need. If I need to run that 2000W load, I'd buy 4000W of panels. If I need to run 2000W on the inverter, then buy at least a 4000W inverter. If I need about 2600W to charge the batteries, then buy 5.2kW generator. I'd get an inverter(s) that can produce standard NA split-phase 120/240VAC. Look at brands like Magnum, Outback, Schneider, and Sunny Island. I would NOT advise you to buy any of the cheap Chinese high-frequency inverters. They typically can not handle stuff with high startup surges, typically things with big motors. IE: the refrigerator, air conditioners, pumps, ect.
BTW, I designed most of my solar arrays as single-pole ground mounts, which lets me point the panels at the morning and afternoon sun. I built them primarily out of HomeDepot unistruts that I welded together. They were designed to hold 4-6 250W grid-tie panels. So, 2-3 of these arrays would completely supply all of your power, even in the depth of winter, when you have sunny days.
Keep in mind that the numbers I presented are for what works for me. Find your own numbers, and plug them into the forumulas if you like. The numbers may change, but the math stays the same.
I would recommend you start out with lead-acid. Don't worry about the 50% depletion issue. It is so much easier to scale lead-acid that you can double the capacity and still pay far less than Li. When working with lead, you can literally scale a single string from 100Ah to 2500Ah, depending on what what batteries you buy.
When scaling for your loads, look at the max discharge the batteries will take. Let's say you want to run a 2000W load on your 48V system. You don't want to drain the batteries at more than 1/10 of their capacity. The math would work out to be...
(2000W/48V system voltage) / 0.1C discharge rate =416Ah. So, a battery of about 400-420Ah would work fine. A 6V Trojan L-16 fits nicely. Rolls also makes 6-8 batteries in this size range.
You can multiple that number by the days of autonomy you want, to account for rainy days when there's no solar.
Now, determine how big an array you need to keep this battery charged. Let's say you went with the 400Ah battery. The math would be....
400Ah X 0.125C charge rate X 52V charging X 1.25X losscorrectionfactor = 3250W of solar panels.
As a general rule of thumb, I use the 2X rule for most of things I need. If I need to run that 2000W load, I'd buy 4000W of panels. If I need to run 2000W on the inverter, then buy at least a 4000W inverter. If I need about 2600W to charge the batteries, then buy 5.2kW generator. I'd get an inverter(s) that can produce standard NA split-phase 120/240VAC. Look at brands like Magnum, Outback, Schneider, and Sunny Island. I would NOT advise you to buy any of the cheap Chinese high-frequency inverters. They typically can not handle stuff with high startup surges, typically things with big motors. IE: the refrigerator, air conditioners, pumps, ect.
BTW, I designed most of my solar arrays as single-pole ground mounts, which lets me point the panels at the morning and afternoon sun. I built them primarily out of HomeDepot unistruts that I welded together. They were designed to hold 4-6 250W grid-tie panels. So, 2-3 of these arrays would completely supply all of your power, even in the depth of winter, when you have sunny days.
Keep in mind that the numbers I presented are for what works for me. Find your own numbers, and plug them into the forumulas if you like. The numbers may change, but the math stays the same.
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