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  • #46
    I'm returning the inverter and keeping my system pure dc it's going to be cheaper and I can simply run an extension cord if need be.
    I'm using a car battery because I got it for free and I'll use it until it dies on me and than I'll get a small single golf cart battery because my panel is so small
    ive been reading about grounding to earth for a little bit but now someone threw a wrench into my plan and told me I don't need to ground so I'm guessing I just fuse every wire properly.
    but even in a car you ground a 12v System so now I'm confused again
    12v 150watt, 80ah battery, 75 watt inverter.

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    • #47
      The poster who told you that is an expert on the code, no grounding is required. The automobile is not grounded. All negatives must be returned to system negative, that's not grounding.
      Golf cart batteries are available in two flavors...GC-2 is a 3 cell battery 6 volts for older golf carts that are 36 volts....GC-8 is a 4 cell battery 8 volts that is for newer golf carts that are 48 volts.....get two GC-2 6 volt golf cart batteries....these are not made in 12 volts....by far the most cost effective battery for a small system...... as a "newby"......KISS.....keep it simple st.....skip the inverter for now...good choice!

      when you invest in the GC-2 set do have enough power available to sustain a 20 to 25 amp charge....I cannot recommend any Asian charge controllers.......plan on about 400 watt sustained charge capability panel at more than that....suitable controllers will include the MidNite Kid or Victron smart charge MPPT controllers
      Last edited by Tecnodave; 05-30-2019, 10:46 AM.

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      • #48
        Thank you very much for the response I will defiantly look into these. I seen a website where they had smaller cheap batteries and I was thinking about getting one of them but now I'll take a look at these instead.

        https://www.batteryspecialist.ca/20ah-40ah/

        I could get a battery that is 20-40ah and keep my 50 watt panel? They batteries are 12v and come in all sizes.
        12v 150watt, 80ah battery, 75 watt inverter.

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        • #49
          Batteries such as that are used in situations for standby use such an exit signs in stores, computer UPS, etc. two types of SLA exist, .....gel....standby only, very slow to charge, not suitable for daily cycling....AGM...absorbed glass mat..some are daily use, some are standby use, you do the research, if you are going to use only 50 watt panel, way too small for golf cart, you will sulfate them. I do use some AGM batteries that are really standby use in a daily cycling use and they have lived for more than 3 years doing that. I'm using CD TECNO TEL-105-FS ,I get them free from local cell phone company, I'm not sure but I do beleive that stated use is "standby" but I have one powering a wi-fi repeater 30 feet up a tower, two Netgear routers with parabola dishes for an remote wi-fi link, charged with a 10.6 watt panel, Zener diode shunt controller to keep battery from overcharging, nothing fancy about it, it just works...KISS...

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          • #50
            I'll have to look into prices for upgrading and compare and see what happens

            but for now I'm guessing I get a bus bar and connect all my grounds to it and that's it. I'm wondering if o should fuse the grounds?
            12v 150watt, 80ah battery, 75 watt inverter.

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            • #51
              No, fuse the hot wire only

              cell phone carriers and all public communications networks are required by law to have "standby power" I get lots of the cd Tecno batteries from swap outs , a few are bad, I get 5-6 years out of them for small stuff,
              Last edited by Tecnodave; 05-30-2019, 11:50 AM.

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              • #52
                I wish I got free batteries. I might upgrade my system. I still have 6-8 weeks before my shed is up so we'll see what happens.

                thanks everyone again for the help I really appreciate it. I do a lot of reading and watching YouTube videos and end up in this chat finalizing anyone of my next moves.
                12v 150watt, 80ah battery, 75 watt inverter.

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                • #53
                  I have an eye for stuff that is useful, I have a set of 4 Rolls-Surette S-530 L-16 batteries ,24 volt set at 428 a.h. That I grabbed on the way to Kragan auto recycle for $20.00/ set. New about $1600. Trade in value $75 ea. Powering my little house for 6 years now, nary a problem They are youngsters at only 14 y.o. born on June 26 2005, not bad for "dead" batteries, keep learning, it's doable....

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                  • #54
                    I went back to the seller of these batteries and bought whole failed solar system for $800 cash as is....goodies...26 ea. Sharp NE-170 panels, Trace C-40 controller, blown FET's, Trace C-60 controller, blown FET's, Trace SW4024, works fine, sold in a moment of stupidity!

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                    • #55
                      Not a bad deal for $1600 batteries.

                      i have one final question. When I walk into the shed I want to have a light switch right beside the door.

                      whst I'm guessing is I have a small fuse box connected straight out of my cc to it. And than a wire going from the fuse box to the switch and up to the light. I'm thinking about having 6-8 leds.

                      What im wondering is should I connect each one to the fuse box or all of them together and than to the fuse box. Or does it even matter?
                      12v 150watt, 80ah battery, 75 watt inverter.

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                      • #56
                        Don't matter, feed it from the battery, I fuse for all the lites, 1 fuse for cc, and one more for the panel to cc. Turn off solar first then battery to c.c., turn on battery to c.c. first, wait a few min, turn on solar
                        I gotta go to medical webinar, probably can't port for several hours.

                        On some controllers if battery connection is lost and solar is inputting power the charge controller will be damaged, I use DC circuit breakers to turn on solar and cc connection to battery for system control. Same can be done with fused and DC switches
                        Last edited by Tecnodave; 05-30-2019, 01:43 PM.

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                        • #57
                          With my 50 watt panel I need a 25-35 ah battery I was wondering if anyone in here knows where to get a 12v 35ah battery from? I have the amazon pwm cc.

                          i would absolutely love to get the Canadian solar 295 watt all black panel and start over but f*** it makes no sense for me to spend all that money on the panel and everything else that follows it.

                          I guess ill Keep this system for led lights and recharge power tool batteries and that it.
                          12v 150watt, 80ah battery, 75 watt inverter.

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                          • #58
                            Originally posted by Tecnodave View Post
                            Consider 2 ea. "GC-2" golf cart batteries as a start, then find a MPPT controller than can charge that set, you will need something like 20 amps output. .
                            He only has a 50 watt panel which will not charge a pair of golf cart batteries. He has a good USB toy charger not made to do any real work.

                            MSEE, PE

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                            • #59
                              Originally posted by Freeesun View Post
                              With my 50 watt panel I need a 25-35 ah battery I was wondering if anyone in here knows where to get a 12v 35ah battery from? I have the amazon pwm cc.
                              With a 50 watt panel and PWM CC at most will generate 2 amps. Anything larger than a 20 AH battery is a waste. Powersonic makes several small batteries.

                              MSEE, PE

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                              • #60
                                Originally posted by Freeesun View Post
                                but even in a car you ground a 12v System so now I'm confused again
                                Stop that. Automobiles use the chassis as a return conductor as it saves weight and precious space from not having to use a negative conductor.The frame and chassis is one big mutter pucker of a conductor.
                                MSEE, PE

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