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My Conext SW 4024 Inverter Keeps Flashing the Lighs

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  • #16
    I was the guy chatting with you on your video on YouTube. if you can't fit all the copper in I agree, you have the wrong fitting. If you have to trim a little off it's not too big of deal. but only trim a little. and if you have to trim all the way around you definitely have the wrong fitting.

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    • #17
      I have 32 6 volt golf cart batteries in series parallel from Costco to my inverter the similar model as yours. My inverter is the SW 4024 Im using 2/0 wire but my series parallel setup has me running two positives and two negatives into the inverter so I have plenty of wire gauge to handle the inverter. My electric dryer is 120 volts 1300 Watts and about 60 feet of 4 gauge wire from my inverter. I did a test for you by plugging in my coily fluorescence and led lights from Home Depot at the same plug in where the dryer is connected. I then started the dryer and watch the lights flicker. The LEDs flickered a little bit more than the coyly fluorescence but neither one completely turned off and it was so slight it was kind of hard to catch. It's kind of like a dimming followed by a little bit too bright and then back to stable again. Then I plugged in my 1.5 horsepower air compressor and tested with that. It seems like the LED lights shut off completely but it's so brief it's hard for me to say for sure if they just dimmed a lot or we're completely off. I don't have a meter with a fast enough response time to measure the actual minimum voltage during these episodes. If your video is true-to-life your lights are definitely turning off for much longer than mine. when my refrigerator starts up the flicker is almost unnoticeable. I'll bring my compressor to the grid put a meter on it and stall out my compressor so it's taking surge current continuously enough for my meter to register. This way I'll know how many watts my compressor actually takes for that instant. Last time I did this I remember it being somewhere around 16000 or 18000 w.
      Last edited by travissand; 02-18-2018, 08:21 AM.

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      • #18
        I asked the manufacturer about balancing the load on the two legs they said try not to exceed 75% continuous on one leg and they did mention that line 1 is stronger.

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        • #19
          >> Some times it can be hard to cut a 4/0 and then get all the fine copper strands into the lug before crimping.
          >> Is it a bad idea to trim a small layer off all the way around the cable if it does not fit into the lug?

          Are you using flexible welding cable by chance ? That cable needs special fine wire lugs for proper fit.
          Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
          || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
          || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

          solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
          gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

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          • #20
            Originally posted by travissand View Post
            I have 32 6 volt golf cart batteries in series parallel from Costco to my inverter the same model as yours. Im using 2/0 wire but my series parallel setup has me running two positives and two negatives into the inverter so I have plenty of wire gauge to handle the inverter. My electric dryer is 120 volts 1300 Watts and about 60 feet of 4 gauge wire from my inverter. I did a test for you by plugging in my coily fluorescence and led lights from Home Depot at the same plug in where the dryer is connected. I then started the dryer and watch the lights flicker. The LEDs flickered a little bit more than the coyly fluorescence but neither one completely turned off and it was so slight it was kind of hard to catch. It's kind of like a dimming followed by a little bit too bright and then back to stable again. Then I plugged in my 1.5 horsepower air compressor and tested with that. It seems like the LED lights shut off completely but it's so brief it's hard for me to say for sure if they just dimmed a lot or we're completely off. I don't have a meter with a fast enough response time to measure the actual minimum voltage during these episodes. If your video is true-to-life your lights are definitely turning off for much longer than mine. when my refrigerator starts up the flicker is almost unnoticeable. I'll bring my compressor to the grid put a meter on it and stall out my compressor so it's taking surge current continuously enough for my meter to register. This way I'll know how many watts my compressor actually takes for that instant. Last time I did this I remember it being somewhere around 16000 or 18000 w.
            Thanks for the detailed testing. Seems you are getting very similar "responses" to what I am seeing from the inverter with lights.

            I asked the manufacturer about balancing the load on the two legs they said try not to exceed 75% continuous on one leg and they did mention that line 1 is stronger
            .
            So it was Schneider that told you this? interesting that the number is 75%. That would make even more sense why I am seeing this.

            But you are seeing what I am seeing. With the lighter loads like the Water Heater element on L2 at 1150 or the fridge that I see a start up of 600 watts (probably higher) also on L2, I do see only a slight flash that is hard to catch. And as you noticed, when the Water Heater comes on there is a slight dim and then normal, and then when it turns off there is a slight flash of brighter and then it is normal. And the interesting thing is that if the light is on a dimmer OR is a dimmable smart bulb (not the same as a bulb that can be dimmed. I think these remote / app operated smart bulbs actually have some kind of dimmer built in but not sure) ... it is more noticeable. With the well pump ... it is much worse on the lights that have actual physical dimmers. LED lights are worse than incandescent. Over Christmas I did not see it in my tree lights at all (not LED)

            So it seems, at the end of the day, it would be best to keep the well pump off the inverter unless necessary during an outage if grid power is available. The SW will do it ... but it ain't happy about it.
            285Wx9 / MNClassic 150 / CSW4024 / TrojanL16H-ACx4

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Mike90250 View Post
              >> Some times it can be hard to cut a 4/0 and then get all the fine copper strands into the lug before crimping.
              >> Is it a bad idea to trim a small layer off all the way around the cable if it does not fit into the lug?

              Are you using flexible welding cable by chance ? That cable needs special fine wire lugs for proper fit.
              Mike this is what I got. It came with the Lugs. I think it was the way I was cutting them. the first few I had trouble with, the last most ... lol ... I got all the strands in. It is just going to take a do over and having the hydro crimper to get it right I would guess.
              285Wx9 / MNClassic 150 / CSW4024 / TrojanL16H-ACx4

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              • #22
                Mike90250 ... I re-did all 10 of my cable ends (4 main connections and 6 series connections), uses all new lugs, shortened my main cables by nearly 2' from over 10' before to just over 8' now, shortened all 3 series connections by 1.5", cut all cables off smooth, got all copper strands inside the lugs (no trimming) , took this to the battery store and had them press the ends with their hydraulic crimper ... Now all 10 connections, 2 at the shunt / main breaker, and 8 at the battery posts ... all 10 have a temp between 77.3 - 78.1, or less than .8 degree difference between any 2 connections after running the water heater element for 10+ minutes at 42 DC amps.
                - So the temp spread was about 5.5 degree, now it is about .8 degree
                - AND, the over all temp is down between 5 and 10+ degree cooler at all connections.

                I would say this improved the 1150 Watt water heater element on / off flashing in the LED lights by 20% (subjective) and probably improved the water pump start up flash by about 10% (subjective). Needless to say there was an improvement both in LED light flashing and it connection temperature. Thanks for the tip.


                Originally posted by travissand View Post
                the manufacturer ... said try not to exceed 75% continuous on one leg and they did mention that line 1 is stronger.
                travissand ... I did switch the water heater from L2 to L1, but I did not notice a significant difference in the flash of LED lights when the element turned on / off on either L1 or L2 after the connections were cleaned up. Both seem to have about the same effect on the lights.
                Last edited by Matrix; 02-16-2018, 03:37 PM.
                285Wx9 / MNClassic 150 / CSW4024 / TrojanL16H-ACx4

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                • #23
                  Good for getting all the crimps done well. That helps get the extra .2V into the inverter so it's not starved, But the issue of overloading the inverter is still present.
                  Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                  || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                  || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

                  solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
                  gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Mike90250 View Post
                    Good for getting all the crimps done well. That helps get the extra .2V into the inverter so it's not starved, But the issue of overloading the inverter is still present.
                    I'm guessing you're saying that the inverter is doing all it can. The only solution seems to be "Don't over load it", Either by removing the pump from the system, or with a different pump system, or a larger or 48v inverter. The latter is a consideration, but probably not likely. I will more likely just leave the pump out of the equation except for natural disasters. With the water heater at 1150 Watts (give or take) Is that a problem for a 3400 Watt split inverter? Supposedly the SW can handle 1700 Watts per leg. I do have a 900 Watt Element I could use instead.
                    Last edited by Matrix; 02-16-2018, 09:45 PM.
                    285Wx9 / MNClassic 150 / CSW4024 / TrojanL16H-ACx4

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                    • #25
                      To even out load on L1 & L2 you could use a 240 volt 1000 watt heater. Grainger sells them. Have you looked into a Grundfos well pump?

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Andy Muzik View Post
                        To even out load on L1 & L2 you could use a 240 volt 1000 watt heater. Grainger sells them. Have you looked into a Grundfos well pump?
                        Funny ... I was just searching for a 1000 watt 240v.
                        285Wx9 / MNClassic 150 / CSW4024 / TrojanL16H-ACx4

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Matrix View Post
                          .
                          So it was Schneider that told you this?
                          yes I was grilling tech support about the functionality and specs. Plenty of unanswered questions they were supposed to call me back with answers but it's been 2 weeks. I just realized mine is a SW not the same model as yours. So mine won't grid-tie and only has 90 AMP charging vs your 150.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by travissand View Post

                            yes I was grilling tech support about the functionality and specs. Plenty of unanswered questions they were supposed to call me back with answers but it's been 2 weeks. I just realized mine is a SW not the same model as yours. So mine won't grid-tie and only has 90 AMP charging vs your 150.
                            Not that's me. SW ... No grid tie and 90 amp. It has Load Shaving and AC support which also do not work as advertised (me and text support went round and round about that back in Nov ... conclusion ... it does not work).
                            285Wx9 / MNClassic 150 / CSW4024 / TrojanL16H-ACx4

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                            • #29
                              Spec sheets I saw for your unit said 150 amp charging

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                              • #30
                                You could buy another unit of the same model number and stack it. I found a source for my SW model number for only $1,200 I'm searching through my email history trying to find a link with no luck yet because I'm sick and tired of worrying about balancing the load and trying not to overload and such. I'd rather just stack two units and forget about it

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