Solar Power Sound System
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Often audio equipment is rated for the absolute peak instantaneous power that
can be delivered. With a steady tone the average power is only half the peaks,
and typical music or voice are not steady tones at all, so the average power is
much lower yet. Some measurements of the actual (average) power consumed
would be a good starting point for a design. Bruce Roe
I would think the system I have listed above is drawing less power than the big system that was tested this past weekend. The smaller system is only 6000 watts. So, I am going to say the 6000 watts system is drawing 5 amps or less per leg meaning 5 amps for FOH and 5 amps for the monitors and backline.Leave a comment:
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Get a KillAWatt power meter or reasonable equivalent. It is worth the investment. Instead of looking at current readings bouncing up and down it will allow you to play a reference mix at a comfortable volume for an hour or two and find out the average power it used.Leave a comment:
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Audio Power
Often audio equipment is rated for the absolute peak instantaneous power that
can be delivered. With a steady tone the average power is only half the peaks,
and typical music or voice are not steady tones at all, so the average power is
much lower yet. Some measurements of the actual (average) power consumed
would be a good starting point for a design. Bruce RoeLeave a comment:
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There is a lot to work with here, I think you've done a good job outlining your requirements. Without digging too deep into it, I think you'll want to be looking at a 48 V system to support your loads.
You mentioned in your intro post that you want to do this because you tried a solar setup once and were impressed by the sound quality. Did you happen to note any of the PV/electrical equipment that you were using when you did that show?
I did take a picture of the trailer he brought in, but have no idea how to post here, as I am not the most computer savvy person. Anyway, it looked to be about 10 ft (or so) in length with approx 3 panels mounted on top and I believe 3 panels on both sides. They hung down for transportation but were propped up with what looked like little shock absorbers and level with the panels on the roof (at the event). The battery's were in the front part of the trailer that were charged from the roof panels. He then had other portable units that he brought to the event to power different areas around the festival and the sound system area.
One unit he called the "regular TOT" was used to power my sound system. He then used a "mini TOT" to power the backline guitar and bass amps, and another mini TOT to power the LED stage lighting. He said he did this so if there was a problem it would be easier to diagnos. I am not sure but I think he used the panels to charge the battery bank within the trailer and then hooked the TOT's up to that, but this is only a guess?
If you suggest using 48 V could you please help shed some light on why that is opposed to using a 12 V system? I would assume I would need 4 12 V battery's wired in series to do that (or is it parallel)? Please feel free to ask any questions and I will do my best to give accurate answers. Thanks again for any more help on this, I appreciate it!Leave a comment:
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There is a lot to work with here, I think you've done a good job outlining your requirements. Without digging too deep into it, I think you'll want to be looking at a 48 V system to support your loads.
You mentioned in your intro post that you want to do this because you tried a solar setup once and were impressed by the sound quality. Did you happen to note any of the PV/electrical equipment that you were using when you did that show?Leave a comment:
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Solar Power Sound System
Hi Everyone,
I am looking to see what kind of a battery bank I will need as well as any other suggestions and help to build a portable solar power system to power a sound system for outside shows mostly during the summer. I would also like to use it at home when I am not using it to do shows.
Sound system specs are:
Front of house (FOH) speakers are rated at 2520 watts
Monitor speakers (MS) are rated at 2000 watts
Backline (Bass amp, 2 guitar amps, sound board, FOH EQ, CD player rated at 700 watts
In round figures this is a 6000 watt system.
Time and hours of use: Most shows would be in daylight hours. Bands normally play "3" 45 minute sets (2 1/4 hours total performance time). One hour setup with sound check break music in between sets. This is approx up to 5 hours total the system would be on with 2 1/4 hours actual performance time.
My thoughts are to go with 2 Go Power! Extreme kits. 1 kit would power my FOH speakers and 1 kit would power my MS, backline, sound board, EQ, CD player. Here are the specs for 1 kit including 480 watts of solar panels:
160 watt solar charging kit + 2 x 160 watt expansion kits (GP-RV-160 + GP-RV-160E)
3000 watt pure sine wave inverter for AC power (GP-SW3000-12)
30 amp pulse width modulated digital solar controller (GP-PWM-30)
75 amp smart battery charger (GPC-75-MAX)
30 amp pre-wired automatic shore power/inverter AC switching kit (GP-TS)
DC inverter install kit (GP-DC-KIT5)
Inverter Remote on/off (GP-SWR-B)
I had read somewhere (if I understood it correctly) that in round figures if you have 600 AH in your battery bank you would want 600 watts of solar panels. If this is correct my thoughts were to add 1 more GP-RV-160E solar panel to each system for a total of 640 watts of panels per system. My thoughts are to have each panel on a stand so they would be portable to move around at the shows or at my home
While considering weight I realize it would cost more but I am thinking to go with "2" 300 AH battery's pèr each Go Power Extreme system. The battery I have been considering is the "Smart Battery 12V 300AH Deep Cycle / Starting Lithium Ion Battery". Maybe there is a better option out there, maybe not? It was appealing because I would have less weight than AGM or FLA battery's and it appears to be less units to carry. After talking to the company (Smart Battery) they said the battery's have a 5 year warranty and are fully rebuildable and they would not charge to rebuild them if and when they would need to have that done.
To charge the 12V 300 AH Smart Battery it was recomended to get the DP-PS4 12V 4 Bank 15A Lithium Ion Battery Charger made by Smart Battery to get the battery's charged up to the 14.4 volts. The GPC-75-MAX charger that comes with the Go Power! Extreme Kit will not charge to this voltage and not get the Lithium Ion Battery's up to the correct voltage. If using these battery's I would not get the charger that comes with the Go Power Extreme Kit.
Questions: Does this sound like something that will do what I listed? If using the Smart Battery listed is 600 AH enough to power this type of system the hours I have listed? Are there better options out there to do what I am trying to do?
Although this is most of what I have been thinking about (I may have missed a few things) but it will hoipfully get the discussion going. Thanks for any insight on this or thoughts on other things to consider for this type of system. Thanks so much for any insight, help and thoughts on this. I am very excited to hopefully make this work using solar power!
SSM
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