low output from charge controller

[SunEagle]

I do not know of any multi-meters that can read 15 amps with an inline shunt, not even $400 units. They go up to 10 amps max. We have operator error Houston.

You have to use either a Shunt or a Clamp-On Hall-Effect meter to read current with any accuracy. In other words all your test are invalid. If I had to bet your controller is PWM which means Input Current = Output Current. Makes not real difference with all your panels in parallel means you are going to be fighting undercharged batteries until they fail prematurely.

What about using a DC clamp on meter. While not the most accurate device it is pretty good telling me the amount of amps being sent down a wire.

DC Clamp on

[almac]

What about using a DC clamp on meter. While not the most accurate device it is pretty good telling me the amount of amps being sent down a wire.

DC Clamp on

that what need, place that inline so i know what is going through the CC

[SunEagle]

that what need, place that inline so i know what is going through the CC

The jaws on that clamp on opens up so you can enclose any wire to measure DC amps.

The inline amp meter I use in my RC systems is something like this.

[Sunking]

that what need, place that inline so i know what is going through the CC

They are not in-line, they are clamp-on.

There are two types.

1. That come as either an add-on to a multimeter.

2. Permanent installation with a Hall Effect Transducer.



However at the current ranges of solar they are not real accurate except for industrial models. The most accurate are shunts which are just precision power resistors.



However all of them are pretty much toys and not of much use. For you save your coins and buy a good 150 Voc MPPT controller because what you have now is not going to work. With 3 panels you only have two options:

1. Buy another 4th panel configure panels 2 x 2, and buy a real MPPT controller with a minimum 100 Voc input.

2. The other option is to buy a MPPT controller with a 150 Voc input like a Midnite Solar Kid 30 amp controller, and wire your 3 panels in series.



Take your pick.

[almac]

They are not in-line, they are clamp-on.

There are two types.

1. That come as either an add-on to a multimeter.

2. Permanent installation with a Hall Effect Transducer.



However at the current ranges of solar they are not real accurate except for industrial models. The most accurate are shunts which are just precision power resistors.



However all of them are pretty much toys and not of much use. For you save your coins and buy a good 150 Voc MPPT controller because what you have now is not going to work. With 3 panels you only have two options:

1. Buy another 4th panel configure panels 2 x 2, and buy a real MPPT controller with a minimum 100 Voc input.

2. The other option is to buy a MPPT controller with a 150 Voc input like a Midnite Solar Kid 30 amp controller, and wire your 3 panels in series.



Take your pick.

thanks, i already have 7 x of these panels. so only need another CC

[almac]

thanks for all your replies and help with this, it seems i have corrected this problem, it was a loose connection on the gator clip on the end of the cable from the CC, i didnt solder the cable to the gator clip , instead had only crimped them on. i have soldered these and now i get full current. 15amps+

[inetdog]

thanks for all your replies and help with this, it seems i have corrected this problem, it was a loose connection on the gator clip on the end of the cable from the CC, i didnt solder the cable to the gator clip , instead had only crimped them on. i have soldered these and now i get full current. 15amps+

Glad to hear that you found it.
If you used the proper connector and proper crimp tools (not just mashing with pliers) the connection should have been as good in terms of resistance as a soldered connection and would have better mechanical properties.
One problem with soldering, especially with stranded wire, is that you get a stress concentration that will eventually break the wire unless you have strain relief beyond the point where the wire is coated with solder.

[almac]

Glad to hear that you found it.
If you used the proper connector and proper crimp tools (not just mashing with pliers) the connection should have been as good in terms of resistance as a soldered connection and would have better mechanical properties.
One problem with soldering, especially with stranded wire, is that you get a stress concentration that will eventually break the wire unless you have strain relief beyond the point where the wire is coated with solder.

yes these gator clamps have an extended bracket for anchoring the cable over the insulated part of the wire

[inetdog]

yes these gator clamps have an extended bracket for anchoring the cable over the insulated part of the wire

Which brings up another important point:
At the current values common with CCs and especially with inverters, any kind of spring loaded clamp (at either the battery or the CC end) should NOT be used.
Spade or ring lug terminals and bolts or binding posts are the way to go.
Any spring clamp will not provide a consistent low resistance in the face of time and vibration. And when it starts to heat up you will have real problems, not just poor battery charging.

[Sunking]

Reminds me of a 60/70's band.

Earth Wind and Fire

[almac]

Which brings up another important point:
At the current values common with CCs and especially with inverters, any kind of spring loaded clamp (at either the battery or the CC end) should NOT be used.
Spade or ring lug terminals and bolts or binding posts are the way to go.
Any spring clamp will not provide a consistent low resistance in the face of time and vibration. And when it starts to heat up you will have real problems, not just poor battery charging.

thanks, iv used ring lug terminals with bolts where i can. the gator clips are on the CC cables and .. yes .. a 2000w inverter. they are 200amp gator clips on the inverter and the reason i use gator clips is because of frequent reconfiguration, so they dont get left for long enough to suffer the effects of time and vibration. i always check these connections. already had some melted copper strands that came into contact with the battery post on the inside of a gator clip

[inetdog]

thanks, iv used ring lug terminals with bolts where i can. the gator clips are on the CC cables and .. yes .. a 2000w inverter. they are 200amp gator clips on the inverter and the reason i use gator clips is because of frequent reconfiguration, so they dont get left for long enough to suffer the effects of time and vibration. i always check these connections. already had some melted copper strands that came into contact with the battery post on the inside of a gator clip

200 amp gator clips are a marketing fiction. Except for one time short usage like jump starting.

Even if the clamps can handle the current, the interface to the battery posts cannot.

[almac]

200 amp gator clips are a marketing fiction. Except for one time short usage like jump starting.

Even if the clamps can handle the current, the interface to the battery posts cannot.

maximum i load on these is 75amps when using an 1800w chainsaw

[inetdog]

maximum i load on these is 75amps when using an 1800w chainsaw

Do you have the DC wiring from battery to inverter fused accordingly?

[almac]

Do you have the DC wiring from battery to inverter fused accordingly?

no, but fire has been on my mind, shall ask at the local store for appropriate fuse