It's sure not the terminal on the Trojan L16-P's I am familiar with. Do all the rest of them look like the same terminal ?? I guess they could always change. Post a picture of the other terminals, always willing to learn.
I did see that the AGM version can be ordered with different terminals, but that is not what your's show to be.
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AGM Battery
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Why is this happening?
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That is obviously not the terminal that came on the battery, correct ? Did the original terminal get twisted off ? They are hard to make repairs on with any degree of success. Getting the bolt deep enough into the lead without it pulling out is tough to do. You have to flatten the lead mating surfaces with a counter bore and add a copper spacer to get the terminal up off the battery top.Leave a comment:
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You need to unhook that before you burn the place down, then buy a new battery, then buy the proper wire (that is auto speaker wire you have there), then buy the proper wire lugs and have them done properly in a hydraulic press, then look up the torque spec for the terminals and use a tq wrench when you install the new connections with some no-ox id to prevent corrosion.
Finial thing to do is kick the installer in the nuts.
BTW, it is 4ga 12V power wire...not speaker wire.Leave a comment:
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You need to unhook that before you burn the place down, then buy a new battery, then buy the proper wire (that is auto speaker wire you have there), then buy the proper wire lugs and have them done properly in a hydraulic press, then look up the torque spec for the terminals and use a tq wrench when you install the new connections with some no-ox id to prevent corrosion.
Finial thing to do is kick the installer in the nuts.Leave a comment:
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The battery is done. It was destroyed from improper installation. Poor connections create a lot of heat. Enough to melt lead and and boil thermoplastic.Leave a comment:
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That is obviously not the terminal that came on the battery, correct ? Did the original terminal get twisted off ? They are hard to make repairs on with any degree of success. Getting the bolt deep enough into the lead without it pulling out is tough to do. You have to flatten the lead mating surfaces with a counter bore and add a copper spacer to get the terminal up off the battery top.Leave a comment:
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Thanks Mike...luckily, I have a spare....is there no way to revive the battery...it's just toast?Leave a comment:
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re: shunts. you only need one shunt, unless your sister-in-law is a good looking shunt salespersonLeave a comment:
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Well, the battery IS ruined.
Heat from a bad connection is the cause. Either the bolt to the terminal was bad, or the crimp of the lug to the wire was bad. My $ says the Lug Crimp to Wire was bad. Wire is not scorched, but most folks would notice a loose terminal bolt, but not a bad crimp hidden under heat shrink.
Distant 3rd possibility is that there is an internal flaw in the battery causing heat, and it melted.
Now to get that heat, would require lots of amps. Get yourself a thermal IR thermometer, run some amps (charge or discharge, doesn't matter) and start measuring. And save up for a new battery. Damage is the one reason to add a new battery to an existing bank of old ones.
real bummer.Leave a comment:
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Why is this happening?
Brand new system installed last month.
FlexMax80 CC, Tripp Lite APS2448UL Inverter.
This is the last battery in the string of 8 (48V system).
Eight 280W solar panels getting great solar exposure.
Home is not yet being lived in, and the system has been floating for 85% of the day most days.
The string is connected to a positive & negative shunt, to which the CC & inverter are both connected. But I do not know why the battery terminal is melting, the battery is getting ruined, but I don't know why or how to fix the problem, any help is appreciated.
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