Why is this happening?

[Amy@altE]

I'm sorry, I stated "shunt", but I think what I should have said is a distribution block (just a steel lug where the inverter & CC are both combined with the battery cable).

Do you have over current protection on this system? I hope you just skimmed over that detail. If not, you need to immediately put a 80-100A breaker between the charge controller and the battery and a 70-80A breaker between the inverter and the battery. Not sure if it would have saved the battery, but I wouldn't turn the system on without them.

[SunEagle]

I didn't see voltage on it either, and I really looked for it. I was quoting the OP who said it was 12V.

Most (but not all) low voltage wiring has a 60v rating but some of the cheap stuff is lower. House hold wiring may be used for 240volt but has a 600v rated insulation.

So your concern that the OP is using this AudioPipe wire on a 48volt battery system is a good catch. I just don't know what the spec is on that wire.

[Amy@altE]

I didn't see any voltage rating on the insulation for that wire.

The CM of a #4 gauge wire would be the same (depending on the number of strands) regardless of the type of insulation. Is it possible that Audiopipe cable may just barely be rated 50v which would not work well all the time on a 48volt system.

I didn't see voltage on it either, and I really looked for it. I was quoting the OP who said it was 12V.

[SunEagle]

12V audio wire for a 48V battery system? http://www.audiopipe.com/index.php?r...product_id=239

You need to get rid of all of those cables and buy properly crimped battery cables.

I didn't see any voltage rating on the insulation for that wire.

The CM of a #4 gauge wire would be the same (depending on the number of strands) regardless of the type of insulation. Is it possible that Audiopipe cable may just barely be rated 50v which would not work well all the time on a 48volt system.

[Amy@altE]

BTW, it is 4ga 12V power wire...not speaker wire.

12V audio wire for a 48V battery system? http://www.audiopipe.com/index.php?r...product_id=239

You need to get rid of all of those cables and buy properly crimped battery cables.

[miahallen]

connection blocks should be tinned copper, not steel, which is a poor choice (rust, resistance, thermal issues)

Yes, the three connections on each one are all tinned copper...only the lug & hardware enclosing them are steel.

[Mike90250]

connection blocks should be tinned copper, not steel, which is a poor choice (rust, resistance, thermal issues)

[miahallen]

Your first photo shows this as an L16-P [ATTACH=CONFIG]5942[/ATTACH]
Do you have a mix of batteries?

No, this was already answered above. It was a typo in my original post....they are all L16P-AC batteries.

[ButchDeal]

These are the L16H-AC batteries.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]5959[/ATTACH]

This is the wire I used:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Your first photo shows this as an L16-P burnt (2).jpg
Do you have a mix of batteries?

[miahallen]

If in fact you have the L16-P's they have Trojan's T2 Carbon plates and those batteries have different charging voltages and should not be mixed with other batteries and will charge at different rates. Good Luck to you.

They are all the same....L16P-AC

[Willy T]

Sorry, they are L16P-AC

If in fact you have the L16-P's they have Trojan's T2 Carbon plates and those batteries have different charging voltages and should not be mixed with other batteries and will charge at different rates. Good Luck to you.

[miahallen]

I stand corrected. Heat is caused by a loose connection usually. The lug could be loose and without a lock washer the heat will thermal cycle and loosen it. The wire may need to be recrimped. If the other post is good then use it with a tapered battery terminal.

The Battery you showed in your picture is a L 16 P, the ones you have here are L16H-AC, confusing at best.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]5962[/ATTACH]

Sorry, they are L16P-AC

I am having a little trouble with these two statements as they conflict with the pictures.

To have this kind of damage takes a lot of current flowing. So here is where I am puzzled:

How does a system rarely being used ever have much current flowing?

Once batteries are charged up, they are not going to take much in the way of current from the controller other than just a couple of amps in the morning after sun rise.

Second thing that bothers me is you state you have shunts and an Inverter in the system. I think you stated the melted battery post is at the end of the string that is connected to the Charge Controller and Inverter.

So why is there only 1 Cable terminated to the battery Post?

Are you using a Distribution Buss Bar to Home Run the Inverter and battery to?

I'm sorry, I stated "shunt", but I think what I should have said is a distribution block (just a steel lug where the inverter & CC are both combined with the battery cable).

[Sunking]

Home is not yet being lived in, and the system has been floating for 85% of the day most days.

The string is connected to a positive & negative shunt, to which the CC & inverter are both connected.

I am having a little trouble with these two statements as they conflict with the pictures.

To have this kind of damage takes a lot of current flowing. So here is where I am puzzled:

How does a system rarely being used ever have much current flowing?

Once batteries are charged up, they are not going to take much in the way of current from the controller other than just a couple of amps in the morning after sun rise.

Second thing that bothers me is you state you have shunts and an Inverter in the system. I think you stated the melted battery post is at the end of the string that is connected to the Charge Controller and Inverter.

So why is there only 1 Cable terminated to the battery Post?

Are you using a Distribution Buss Bar to Home Run the Inverter and battery to?

[Willy T]

These are the L16H-AC batteries.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]5959[/ATTACH]

This is the wire I used:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I stand corrected. Heat is caused by a loose connection usually. The lug could be loose and without a lock washer the heat will thermal cycle and loosen it. The wire may need to be recrimped. If the other post is good then use it with a tapered battery terminal.

The Battery you showed in your picture is a L 16 P, the ones you have here are L16H-AC, confusing at best.

ScreenHunter_991.jpg

[miahallen]

These are the L16P-AC batteries.
500x500.jpg

This is the wire I used:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KWJ6FOY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1