50 amp transfer switch with 30 amp RV?

[NCmountainsOffgrid]

yes, this post was referring to RV PARK type 30amp 120v connections ONLY, not the type you may have at home which is typically for a DRYER, which is 240v.
This is also one of the easiest 'mistakes' made by electricians and new RV owners who want to install a 30amp RV outlet while parked at home. If the electrician or homeowner is not clear on the 120v distinction, and the correct 3 prong plug style, they may mistakenly install a 240v outlet - not a good idea.

the RV 50amp service, though, is always 240v since it uses a double-pole 50amp breaker set - and the 50amp RV is designed correctly to use that 240v power, splitting it into two 120v lines when it reaches the Main Electrical panel within the RV.

[NCmountainsOffgrid]

by the way, on a side note, I am currently with my 50amp Motorcoach, at a campground, which has TWO 30amp outlets. Nice.
I am making use of my 30,30-50amp 'dogbone' adapter to draw from BOTH at the same time, giving me twice the amperage versus just plugging into the normal 30amp outlet.

60amps is better than 30, especially when the hot sun is beating down on your RV. : )

This is all 120v, of course, but the adapter brings the available amperage of both outlets/breakers to the RV - 30amps on one 'leg', and 30amps on the other 'leg' of the Shore Cord, and consequently the same into the 'sides' of the RV's main breaker panel.

[Ampster]

by the way, on a side note, I am currently with my 50amp Motorcoach, at a campground, which has TWO 30amp outlets. Nice.
I am making use of my 30,30-50amp 'dogbone' adapter to draw from BOTH at the same time, giving me twice the amperage versus just plugging into the normal 30amp outlet.

60amps is better than 30, especially when the hot sun is beating down on your RV. : )

This is all 120v, of course, but the adapter brings the available amperage of both outlets/breakers to the RV - 30amps on one 'leg', and 30amps on the other 'leg' of the Shore Cord, and consequently the same into the 'sides' of the RV's main breaker panel.

Thanks, I am currently helping a friend get the right adapters for a future road trip in his Sprinter. That helps clarify the options. I carry a 14-50 adapter in my EV in case I have to charge at an RV park somewhere. I will look and see if I can find a doggone adapter for myself. However in my case I will need to make sure the receptacles are on opposite phases but it probably doesn't matter in the case of an RV as you describe those panels. Is that a correct assumption?

[NCmountainsOffgrid]

no, opposite phases don't come into play since your RV doesn't use 240v service

anything you plug into at a typical rv park or campground will work fine

adapters are simply to be able to plug into different sized outlets, or even multiple outlets at the same time, like my example above, for more available power

the adapters will do the work for you

[PNW_Steve]

Just to be clear, you are talking about typical RV parks. Correct? There are a lot of 30 Amp receptacles that are 240 volt. E.G. 14-30 & 6-30. Unless you are talking about two wire receptacles the NEMA 5-30 is a grounded 30 A 120 V receptacle. Is that the one commonly found in RV Parks?

The important issue here is that the OP connect the correct voltage even though the original question was regarding Amps.

Yes. A standard 30 amp RV service is 120 volt.....

[SunEagle]

Just to be clear, you are talking about typical RV parks. Correct? There are a lot of 30 Amp receptacles that are 240 volt. E.G. 14-30 & 6-30. Unless you are talking about two wire receptacles the NEMA 5-30 is a grounded 30 A 120 V receptacle. Is that the one commonly found in RV Parks?

The important issue here is that the OP connect the correct voltage even though the original question was regarding Amps.

The 30A 120V receptacles are very common in RV parks along with the 50A 240V type. I just got back last Sunday from a 5 day trip up in Live Oak Florida where I had rented a full service site which included a 50A 240V plug but my friend was only able to get a 30A 120V plug for his RV

[NCmountainsOffgrid]

let me also clarify what you are saying: YOU were at a site that had a 50amp RV service outlet, but your friend was assigned a site that only provided a 30amp RV service outlet.
So, essentially, your friend had access to 30amps, but YOU had access to 100amps.

[SunEagle]

let me also clarify what you are saying: YOU were at a site that had a 50amp RV service outlet, but your friend was assigned a site that only provided a 30amp RV service outlet.
So, essentially, your friend had access to 30amps, but YOU had access to 100amps.

Well I had a 2 pole CB feeding a 50 A 4 wire receptacle. I would still qualify that as 50A 240v, not 100amps.

My friend could not get on the list for 50A but he made out with the 30A since he only needed one of his AC units because it was not very hot.

[gbynum]

What's not mentioned yet is the (well, AN) advantage of 2 120V busses used with the 50A 240 cord and panel. An adapter from the 30A receptacle to the 50A cord puts 120V on both portions of the breaker panel. YES, ABSOLUTELY there is a 30A limit vs a 100A limit, but all loads will have power. Power management is required ... only 1 A/C for one ... but individually, all loads will work.

For the unusual, high end units with 240V capability, this doesn't work; hopefully the owners understand that.

[NCmountainsOffgrid]

yes, any owners with a 240v clothes dryer certainly already 'understand' that, but that's a very, very uncommon situation - they don't typically plug into 30amp service, and when they do, they 'know' they are limited...

also, 30amps of power can certainly power two roof air conditioners, though many might think otherwise. Two typical 13.5kw roof air conditioners will only draw around 10-12 amps at full run... but don't spread that around, as many in the RVing world continue to buy into incorrect facts, and suffer through the heat because of it. : /

[SunEagle]

a

yes, any owners with a 240v clothes dryer certainly already 'understand' that, but that's a very, very uncommon situation - they don't typically plug into 30amp service, and when they do, they 'know' they are limited...

also, 30amps of power can certainly power two roof air conditioners, though many might think otherwise. Two typical 13.5kw roof air conditioners will only draw around 10-12 amps at full run... but don't spread that around, as many in the RVing world continue to buy into incorrect facts, and suffer through the heat because of it. : /

You are correct. Each of my AC units draw about 12 amps so technically I could get away with a 30A service.

[PNW_Steve]

yes, any owners with a 240v clothes dryer certainly already 'understand' that, but that's a very, very uncommon situation - they don't typically plug into 30amp service, and when they do, they 'know' they are limited...

also, 30amps of power can certainly power two roof air conditioners, though many might think otherwise. Two typical 13.5kw roof air conditioners will only draw around 10-12 amps at full run... but don't spread that around, as many in the RVing world continue to buy into incorrect facts, and suffer through the heat because of it. : /

A 30 amp service sould have no problems running two typical roof airs. Right?

Well after 30 years of RVing. Six years full time one the road I have seen quite a few people that couldn't make it play. The last roof airs that I installed would draw close to 13 amps on high (measured). So, 26 amps for a/c, then we have the converter that charges your house batteries and supports your 12v loads, don't forget the refrigerator that switches to AC automatically when you plug into shore power. Almost forgot the electric heating element in my water heater.

If you switch your appliances over to propane when you need to run the a/C's you have a better shot.

Reality is that some people can't comprehend power management. If you give that person in an RV with 30 amp service, 2 roof airs and hot weather they are pretty likely to have trouble.

They used to make an aftermarket device that controlled power to the compressor in each roof air and switch power back and forth so only one compressor received power at a time. Kind of a bandaid fix.

Today I would be quite surprised to see 30amp and twin roof airs in a recent manufacture RV.

[bcroe]

The RV air conditioning problem could take advantage of the latest high SEER mini split
heat pump inverter technology, variable compressor. Heat and cool in one package, and
a lot quieter. I run a 9000 BTU cooling (more on heat) on a 220V 15A circuit, which is way
too big for it but the smallest I have. Bruce Roe

[SunEagle]

The RV air conditioning problem could take advantage of the latest high SEER mini split
heat pump inverter technology, variable compressor. Heat and cool in one package, and
a lot quieter. I run a 9000 BTU cooling (more on heat) on a 220V 15A circuit, which is way
too big for it but the smallest I have. Bruce Roe

Great idea but it may be hard to find one of those that will fit onto an RV. It is bad enough that my Carriers are now obsolete requiring me to find a replacement and an adapter so the old controls work with the new unit. PIA.

[bcroe]

Great idea but it may be hard to find one of those that will fit onto an RV. It is bad enough that my Carriers are now obsolete requiring me to find a replacement and an adapter so the old controls work with the new unit. PIA.

There are multi zone versions that might be much better suited than the type I
use in a house. Not sure about control, mine use a TV style remote, no wires.
Bruce Roe