I keep reading about these RV battery isolators. One version used a couple
really big diodes from the alternator plus output, to the 2 batteries. It wastes a
lot of power by adding a diode drop, and might mess up the voltage regulator.
Another really smart one uses fancy electronics to reduce the diode loss. And
one uses a solenoid that must be operated at the right times, without fail or welding.
This may be an old idea, but it seems to me there is a better way. The (3 phase)
alternator already has 3 diodes to ground adequate to handle its capacity, and 3
more from the same windings to the positive output. WHY NOT just add 3 more
diodes from the windings, to the second battery positive? This is as efficient as
no isolator, and foolproof. The regulator would still work as before, the batteries
will eventually reach close to the same final voltage.
Some alts already have external winding terminals available. The more difficult case
is going inside and tying to the original 3 winding-diode junctions. Bruce Roe
really big diodes from the alternator plus output, to the 2 batteries. It wastes a
lot of power by adding a diode drop, and might mess up the voltage regulator.
Another really smart one uses fancy electronics to reduce the diode loss. And
one uses a solenoid that must be operated at the right times, without fail or welding.
This may be an old idea, but it seems to me there is a better way. The (3 phase)
alternator already has 3 diodes to ground adequate to handle its capacity, and 3
more from the same windings to the positive output. WHY NOT just add 3 more
diodes from the windings, to the second battery positive? This is as efficient as
no isolator, and foolproof. The regulator would still work as before, the batteries
will eventually reach close to the same final voltage.
Some alts already have external winding terminals available. The more difficult case
is going inside and tying to the original 3 winding-diode junctions. Bruce Roe
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