Minimum to Comfortable Setup for stationary off grid caravan

[Tashi]

Judging from the conversion wiki for AWG, 6mm2 Wire falls between 9 and 10AWG so this wire should be ok for 10 to 15 metre run.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-CORE-6MM-AUTO-TWIN-CORE-CABLE-PER-METRE-TRAILER-BRAKES-DUAL-BATTERY-SOLAR-/221392139076?hash=item338bfff344

and a couple of normal plugs on one end because it is in series.

I am not worried if I cant use it for a few days because of weather conditions.

I will have a closer look at the battery and Controller. Are you familiar with any good controllers with an LCD in that price range? Am i silly wanting an LCD? it seems to me that it would be useful for seeing how many ah in and out over time in particularly. anyway i will check reviews.

Thank you so much for all your help

[PNjunction]

Dude, your ebay shopping is killing me. I could easily counter with Amazon links.

How about this - why not link direct to the manufacturer's site, and let people find their own deals or buy directly. Kind of like this:

http://www.morningstarcorp.com/

http://samlexamerica.com/products/Category.aspx?cid=M6

http://www.outbackpower.com/outback-products/charge-controllers

http://www.midnitesolar.com/

You'll get far more information from them vs just throwing darts at the online shopping bazaar.

[Tashi]

The voltmeter is critical

I saw some with a clamp as well as the probes but they seemed to have less choices around the dial.
Are the clamps useful and are two in one units ok?

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=renogy&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xmultimeter.TRS0&_nkw=multimeter&_sacat=0

[Tashi]

Killing me softly with your links

Thankyou good idea. I will check them out

[PNjunction]

Heh, most of those meters are crap.

You are investing a lot of time and energy into this project, so don't cheap out here. Why buy a Ferrari only to replace the tires with retreads from the gas-station? Oh, they may work, but do you TRUST them?

I can personally vouch for this inexpensive lineup from Fluke - their 11x series, and the 114 would be my bottom line. (no current measurements). Step up to the 115 if you want 10a current measuring as well.

http://en-us.fluke.com/products/digital-multimeters/fluke-114-digital-multimeter.html

Or, perhaps better for your area:

http://www.fluke.com/fluke/auen/digital-multimeters/Fluke-114.htm?PID=55992

Ah, that's better. Spend just a little more on even a low-end Fluke, and you won't regret it, or wonder if it is really all-that. It is.

[Tashi]

the 114 would be my bottom line.

I can get that for $250AUD so these extra measurements and better accuracy will translate into better efficiency, accurate diagnostics and longer system life?

[LETitROLL]

Am i silly wanting an LCD?

It depends, if you are still going to buy the $9.99 DC-DC converter to charge your laptop because your budget is too small to afford the better one for $39, then yes it is very silly. Solar panels themselves for the most part are pretty good and trouble free, just have to take care to avoid dropping/breaking them yourself, but the rest of a solar system (controllers, batteries, etc.) especially at the budget entry level are not like a TV and other electronics in the home that most people are used to just plugging in and having them work flawlessly for 10 years, with inexpensive solar setups there are more issues and a much higher percentage of people that end up "in the dark"

[LETitROLL]

I will have a closer look at the battery and Controller. Are you familiar with any good controllers with an LCD in that price range? Am i silly wanting an LCD? it seems to me that it would be useful for seeing how many ah in and out over time in particularly. anyway i will check reviews.

My only problem with the LCD is the fact that it is "value added" to an average (at best) charge controller to make it sexy and attract sales. The charge controller is the heart of the system and critical to reliability, longevity and how much power you have to use each and every day. With a tight budget that you have expressed you want to stick with, I just like to see every dollar go to function and production. I just looked on ebay.au and they have inline volt/amp LCD meters that give you that same information (and in color) starting at about $4.99.

[lkruper]

My only problem with the LCD is the fact that it is "value added" to an average (at best) charge controller to make it sexy and attract sales. The charge controller is the heart of the system and critical to reliability, longevity and how much power you have to use each and every day. With a tight budget that you have expressed you want to stick with, I just like to see every dollar go to function and production. I just looked on ebay.au and they have inline volt/amp LCD meters that give you that same information (and in color) starting at about $4.99.

I have been wondering if putting a kill-o-watt meter inline with the inverter output combined with a notebook would allow the collection of statistics similar to an LCD. Could that be a poor-mans battery monitor?

[LETitROLL]

I have been wondering if putting a kill-o-watt meter inline with the inverter output combined with a notebook would allow the collection of statistics similar to an LCD. Could that be a poor-mans battery monitor?

Should work fine, the Kill-o-Watt meters seem to be pretty good at keeping all the running totals, and with pure sine inverters it shouldn't be able to tell any difference vs grid power, not sure how the Kill-o-watt would see Modified sine wave?

[lkruper]

Should work fine, the Kill-o-Watt meters seem to be pretty good at keeping all the running totals, and with pure sine inverters it shouldn't be able to tell any difference vs grid power, not sure how the Kill-o-watt would see Modified sine wave?

Good question. However, I think what is more important is that it report consistently. If a record is initially made of what loads were powered and for how long, it might be possible to calibrate it. The problem I had when trying this in a very small experiment was that I ran the small battery down to the point where the inverter shut off and I lost the data. If the system used by the OP is scaled properly, the idea is that this would never happen, correct?

[Tashi]

inline volt/amp LCD meters that give you that same information

I am happy if I get the VICTRON 75/15 MPPT - 12/24V Solar Charge Controller that you suggested and the inline Digital LCD Watt Meter Battery Balance 60V100A DC RC Volt Ammeter Amp Analyzer.

So then I have a decent controller and an accumulative reading. Were would I wire in the inline meter? and is it something I could swap in and out if I put it on plugs?

[Bala]

Heh, most of those meters are crap.

You are investing a lot of time and energy into this project, so don't cheap out here. Why buy a Ferrari only to replace the tires with retreads from the gas-station? Oh, they may work, but do you TRUST them?

I can personally vouch for this inexpensive lineup from Fluke - their 11x series, and the 114 would be my bottom line. (no current measurements). Step up to the 115 if you want 10a current measuring as well.

http://en-us.fluke.com/products/digital-multimeters/fluke-114-digital-multimeter.html

Or, perhaps better for your area:

http://www.fluke.com/fluke/auen/digital-multimeters/Fluke-114.htm?PID=55992

Ah, that's better. Spend just a little more on even a low-end Fluke, and you won't regret it, or wonder if it is really all-that. It is.

While Flukes are always nice to have I dont own one and never have. Have had one in a workplace. I have used from the cheapest meters to one I have now is about $60 aud. i have run my solar system for almost ten years as well as using them for work as a mechanic. In the workplace where we had a fluke it was professionally calibrated every year. You can check your own meter against your regulators meter to ensure its accuracy, or lack there of.

Personally I dont think its necessary to spend $250 aud on a meter for a home solar system.

[LETitROLL]

I am happy if I get the VICTRON 75/15 MPPT - 12/24V Solar Charge Controller that you suggested and the inline Digital LCD Watt Meter Battery Balance 60V100A DC RC Volt Ammeter Amp Analyzer.

So then I have a decent controller and an accumulative reading. Were would I wire in the inline meter? and is it something I could swap in and out if I put it on plugs?

Most of those are easy to wire in, they just take a sample voltage from wherever you put it, if you want to know gross power output from panels you would have to y into the panel input wires at the controller, or if you want to know what is actually making to through to your batteries, then y it into that output that goes to the battery. Most people leave them in the circuit, but i don't know of any reason you could not put quick disconnect plugs on it, its just a meter. I think that will give you a much better setup for actually less money (hard to beat a double positive).

[Tashi]

Hi thanks for all the good info i am getting some confidence back in this project

I found a local battery supplier with a 12v 120ah FULLRIVER DEEP CYCLE AGM BATTERY 31 SIZE for just under $400. Fullriver seem to have some good reviews around the place and the eBay seller only has 1 negative. Is there anything important I should look out for when looking at specs like this? especially in regard to my system?

http://www.fullriver.com/products/dclist.htm

Cycling Capacity
20 hour rate 120 Amp Hours
Reserve Capacity
@ 25 Amps 200 minutes @ 75 Amps 45 minutes
Mechanical Specifications
Group Size 31
Terminal Type M8 (w/ TP08 Brass AP Included)
Total Height 8.66" (220 mm)
Height 8.43" (214 mm)
Width 6.77" (172 mm)
Length 12.91" (328 mm)
Weight 72.3 lbs (32.8 kg)
Case Type ABS Plastic - Flame Res Rating UL94-HB
Discharge Table (Constant Current)
Time Amps Rate
20 hr 5.8 0.05 CA
10 hr 10.4 0.1 CA
8 hr 11.9 0.13 CA
5 hr 18.2 0.25 CA
3 hr 27 0.33 CA
2 hr 33 0.5 CA
1 hr 62.1 1 CA
Electrical Specifications
Nominal Voltage 12 Volt
Capacity @ 100 hour rate 130 AH
Capacity @ 20 hour rate 120 AH
Capacity @ 10 hour rate 108 AH
Capacity @ 5 hour rate 94 AH
CCA 760
CA or MCA 910
Short Circuit Current 2830 Amps
Internal Resistance 3.8m Ω
Charge Voltages

Battery Voltages
Charge Stage 12V 24V 36V 48V
Bulk 14.7 V 29.4 V 44.1 V 58.8 V
Absortion 14.7 V 29.4 V 44.1 V 58.8 V
Float 13.6 V 27.2 V 40.8 V 54.6 V
TC Factor: -4mV/°C/cell
Temperature Range Specifications
Condition Recommended Maximum
Storage -15°C to 50°C -40°C to 71°C
Operation -15°C to 40°C -40°C to 71°C
Charge with TC -15°C to 50°C -40°C to 71°C
Charge without TC 0°C to 40°C -15°C to 50°C
Terminal Torque Specifications
Terminal Type ft-lbs in-lbs Nm
AP | DT (AP) | M6 | M6M (stud) | TP07 (AP) | TP08 (AP) 4.2 - 6.0 50-70 5.6 - 7.9
FR45 6.0 - 7.5 70-90 7.9 - 10.1
M8 7.1 - 8.0 85-95 9.6 - 10.7
DT (stud) | M10M (stud) 9.2 - 10.4 110-125 12.2 - 14.0