My tiny project in sunny Ecuador

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  • Jason
    replied
    Originally posted by ecusolar
    Yeah, I will try it on one of the next panels but have to think about the estetical part.
    maybe you could put a food coloring mixture with the silicone to match the color of the cells.. hah

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  • ecusolar
    replied
    Yeah, I will try it on one of the next panels but have to think about the estetical part.

    I have to find a way to produce a continious, straight, thin silicone film to get these lines covered.

    Originally posted by Jason
    seems like a good idea....are you going to try it?

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  • DeltaFox 25
    replied
    jason ,
    I have already done that to the panels I have made. I check everyone to be sure there covered befor I put it outside.

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  • Jason
    replied
    Originally posted by ecusolar
    To the encapsulation:

    I'm reading this post from "Tri-tips Mike" again and again :
    As to moisture, it causes corrosion, and once the fine metal layer over the top of the cell corrodes, you loose contact, and your power drops. The more moisture, the faster it degrades.
    Mike.


    and come to a conclusion:

    Why we don't apply a small string of silicone only on top of the soldered areas?
    seems like a good idea....are you going to try it?

    Leave a comment:


  • ecusolar
    replied
    I wouldn't built pressure, only fill the panels with the gas, I already have an idea how to manage that and will post when it's done.

    Actually we are with a lot of work in the hotel and I have to help my wife keeping the guests in good mood. That's called public relation, lol.

    Originally posted by Mike90250
    Just don't "pop the glass" with the pressure. And be careful, if the cells are glued to the glass, they will flex along with the glass, and eventually crack.

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  • Solar Steve
    replied
    Yes, I miss-stated - it does produce heat. The lamp does, of course, give off heat. The unit is well ventilated as heating the unit could melt the rubber sealing gasket and cause issues with the film and plates. Before we send it off to be recycled we will look into whether any solar hobbiests would have any interest. The modules would have to be less than 30" x 40" however.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike90250
    replied
    Originally posted by ecusolar
    ...
    I'll give it a try with CO2 as I have several tanks here from the beer dispenser.
    Just don't "pop the glass" with the pressure. And be careful, if the cells are glued to the glass, they will flex along with the glass, and eventually crack.

    Leave a comment:


  • ecusolar
    replied
    Make sense Mike.

    I could not see any difference under full sun yet but under no load and that might change when I connect the inverter, or not?

    I'll give it a try with CO2 as I have several tanks here from the beer dispenser.

    Originally posted by Mike90250
    vacuum will lower your thermal transfer from hot cells. just like a thermos bottle, and you will likely see cell voltages go way down, as they heat up. fill ith inert gas seems good. Argon, Co2, Nitrogen...

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  • Mike90250
    replied
    vacuum will lower your thermal transfer from hot cells. just like a thermos bottle, and you will likely see cell voltages go way down, as they heat up. fill ith inert gas seems good. Argon, Co2, Nitrogen...

    Leave a comment:


  • ecusolar
    replied
    1000W lamps can deliver a lot of heat, I imagen that the lamp is inside the box.
    So if I understand well, this glass panel has a vacuum pump to make pressure to whatever is between the glass and the base, isn't it?

    You could use this table, especially the vacuum pump to get the air out of of the sealed panels.

    The heat of the lamp can be useful if you decide to use Sylguard 182.

    Anyhow needs to have a testdrive.

    Originally posted by Solar Steve
    The machine looks like this one: http://www.getsinc.com/equipment/use...ker/index.html

    No heat - a 1,000 watt light to expose the plates though...
    Last edited by ecusolar; 12-14-2009, 08:32 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Solar Steve
    replied
    The machine looks like this one: http://www.getsinc.com/equipment/use...ker/index.html

    No heat - a 1,000 watt light to expose the plates though...

    Leave a comment:


  • ecusolar
    replied
    Mike brought me to an idea

    Hi Steve, do you have a manual or a link to the facturer of this vacuum panel?

    Maybe that way I can get deeper in to see if there is use for it.

    I use normal window glass and didn't notice any volt droppage with or without the glass on top but I use a analog meter, in few days arrive my digital one
    On the last panel design I don't use a frame, but a well done mounting rack and the weight comes only from the glass.
    We never had storms here, mostly it's sunny, so that is out of question.

    To the encapsulation:

    I'm reading this post from "Tri-tips Mike" again and again :
    As to moisture, it causes corrosion, and once the fine metal layer over the top of the cell corrodes, you loose contact, and your power drops. The more moisture, the faster it degrades.
    Mike.


    and come to a conclusion:

    Why we don't apply a small string of silicone only on top of the soldered areas?

    BTW: Mike can you tell me the reason why I always get hungry when I read your posts?

    Originally posted by Solar Steve
    I stumbled upon your postings and have enjoyed following your progress. You are taking DYI Solar to a level I had not seen before. Congrats on your efforts. I'll admit I'm a bit envious of all that sun you get!


    I read with interest the process of bonding/evacuating the air in making the modules. I'm intrigued. I was in the commercial printing business for 30 years and still have a vacuum frame that would basically vacuum the air out between a base and a frame of glass to provide a tight pressure between a film and a plate before exposing to a bright light. I'm wondering if this obsolete machine might have a use in DYI Solar. It is a glass frame that measures 30" x 40". It was known as a flip-top plate burner. Maybe I'll hold onto it for a while...

    Those modules must be heavy? The frames seem very strong. The glass is shatter resistant? If not be careful if putting on the roof! Both while installing and in a windy storm, they could be lethal! Just a thought. Safety is always the first concern, or it should be.

    Take care and have fun working on this wonderful project.
    Last edited by ecusolar; 12-14-2009, 07:35 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • DeltaFox 25
    replied
    you must be talking about my friend ecusolar. he is doing some very good panels.
    I'd keep that table for sure. Does it have heat also. if so you might be able to do EVA and tedlar just like manufactures do.

    Leave a comment:


  • Solar Steve
    replied
    DYI Solar

    I stumbled upon your postings and have enjoyed following your progress. You are taking DYI Solar to a level I had not seen before. Congrats on your efforts. I'll admit I'm a bit envious of all that sun you get!

    I read with interest the process of bonding/evacuating the air in making the modules. I'm intrigued. I was in the commercial printing business for 30 years and still have a vacuum frame that would basically vacuum the air out between a base and a frame of glass to provide a tight pressure between a film and a plate before exposing to a bright light. I'm wondering if this obsolete machine might have a use in DYI Solar. It is a glass frame that measures 30" x 40". It was known as a flip-top plate burner. Maybe I'll hold onto it for a while...

    Those modules must be heavy? The frames seem very strong. The glass is shatter resistant? If not be careful if putting on the roof! Both while installing and in a windy storm, they could be lethal! Just a thought. Safety is always the first concern, or it should be.

    Take care and have fun working on this wonderful project.

    Leave a comment:


  • DeltaFox 25
    replied
    Thats not to bad at all. You have found a good way to do that.

    Leave a comment:

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