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So putting it all together
From the VICTRON 75/15 MPPT charge controller I connect it first to the battery with the inline watt meter between controller and battery. Is it ok to connect the inline with electric double screw connectors (32 AMPS AND TAKES 2X6MM CABLES)as this will be inside?
To load I can add a 3 car-plug socket adapter from which I can run dc to dc, 300/600w inverter, lights or fan. Some things seem to connect straight to the battery but if it all goes on load then it can use power that is not being fed to battery and is otherwise wasted during the day. Right? Or will it interfere to much with the battery getting charged?
Will I need to add any fuse?
How much more ah would a 300w inverter use than a 150w inverter while using a 90w appliance? Would it be negligible?Comment
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I think it is best to hook everything with the main system up first and connect the meter last, the ones I have seen just take a sample (not fully inline). There is a video on youtube of the one you are looking at showing how to hook it up, just google the 3 words "solar watt meter" and it was the top result on our U.S. site. I think the electric double screw connectors are what I call "wire nuts" commonly used in house wiring they are actually best in most cases (regular ones just not waterproof).
Each system varies, but it is just a good habit/rule of thumb to only hook small loads to the load terminals on your charge controller (if any), no sense to pulling the extra current through the internal electronics all the time, the biggest advantage is if you need to leave things running when you are gone it will shut down if battery voltage gets too low (inverters have the same protection) most manufactures call the load terminals for "lighting". Inverters are most commonly hooked directly to the battery (with a fuse) since even a small inverter can require 20-30A at the input for certain load/startup conditions, which is nothing for a battery but actually a lot to pull through a small charge controller. The available amount of energy from the panels through the CC is the same either way, the system will use whatever is not being used at the time to charge the battery no matter how you hook it. The difference is small between the 150w and 300w inverter running a 90w load, but in this system if you want you battery to have a chance at making it a couple of years I would stay with as small of an inverter as you can to run what you really need to, the odds of killing your battery prematurely go up dramatically with large(r) inverters.Comment
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if you dont already have the manual here it is, it shows conncections and tells you connection sequence.
maximum load for the load terminal is 15A.
generally the load terminal is programmable but at a quick glance of the manual i could not see if for this unit.Comment
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Thankyou very much I understand about the controller much better now. I watched the video it looks like a neat little gadget, it does seem to me that he connected it inline into the direct wire from controller to battery. I would need to disconnect the panels before I disconnected the battery wouldn't I?(it was the first in aussie youtube also)
Three leads going to the battery;
1. Charge Controller - are the 9/10 AWG wires ok to use here and do I need a fuse?
2. 150/300w inverter with clamp clips when in use - what size fuse for this?
3. 3 X CIGARETTE SOCKETS, all + terminal wired together then extended to battery and same for - terminals. I will then run all 12v stuff through the sockets. what size fuse should i use on this?
Thank you so much for your continual great help.
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Yes, panels ALWAYS disconnect first, and hook back up last.Thankyou very much I understand about the controller much better now. I watched the video it looks like a neat little gadget, it does seem to me that he connected it inline into the direct wire from controller to battery. I would need to disconnect the panels before I disconnected the battery wouldn't I?(it was the first in aussie youtube also)
Three leads going to the battery;
1. Charge Controller - are the 9/10 AWG wires ok to use here and do I need a fuse?
2. 150/300w inverter with clamp clips when in use - what size fuse for this?
3. 3 X CIGARETTE SOCKETS, all + terminal wired together then extended to battery and same for - terminals. I will then run all 12v stuff through the sockets. what size fuse should i use on this?
Thank you so much for your continual great help.
Yes, 9/10 AWG wire is very good. The CC has its own fuse, (not sure if it protects all the inputs/outputs though) I emailed Victron when I first got mine and they got back to me same day.
Inverter probably comes with one (make sure, it needs it) 25-30A
3 X cig. sockets fuse depends what you are plugging into them, and what size wire goes to each socket (each line should be fused about 5-10a)
I use a battery block, or distribution block, they make the wiring a little easier/cleaner, but other methods are okay as long as you get clean, tight, insulated connections. Here is one example of what I use, with a short piece of large wire to battery and then all my other stuff coming and going on 9/10 awg size wire.
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You really are going to need to make sure and watch you total usage (with this or any other system) 50% is the MAX drawdown for your battery and it will last longer if you do not draw it down that much every day. Doing the least you can at night, and saving certain tasks (like charging laptop) for when the sun is out so that more of that comes from surplus through the CC and not drawing battery down, will make a huge difference in longevity of the battery. Also spreading out your loads throughout the day and not hitting your battery with a huge draw all at once. I assume your lighting is low wattage LED? Try to get your battery charged back up every day, with your system you are really going to have to plan ahead and conserve more than usual during cloudy/less sunny weather.Comment
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Thank you, so much great info. The lighting is a string of 4 lights, each lights cord plugs into the light before it so i can use 1 or 3 whatever but all 4 only add upto 0.7ah. It will be interesting to check with my millimeter to see if they counted for resistance
<- learning the language
Good tip, i never thought to download a manual before i bought the stuff.
I just finished buying all my stuff, even my heat shrink, battery lugs and even the battery, it was a brand that a company i know sells so fingers crossed. I should have all my kit by the 20th.
I read in the sticky about getting a good battery charger to do your initial battery charge but with 200w panels to 1 125ah battery I should be right if i get a couple of sunny days to totally charge in before i draw?Comment
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It is still better to use a regular battery charger, with a solar system your high production is centered around "solar noon" so even on a good sunny day with 10 hours sun on the panels you may actually only have about 3-4 hours of high production, a regular bench charger will give a good uninterrupted steady (not fluctuating or piece meal) charge for as long as the battery needs it. It is impossible to know the background of the exact battery you receive also, some have sat on the shelf longer than others, so it just kind of depends, it may be okay with your solar system, just no way of knowing for sure, so the bench charger is just a good rule of thumb.Comment
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Hi, I have most of my stuff now
With the solar panels to check them can i put the multimeter terminals + to + and - to - with the solar panel leads? Will this short the panel? so v- 20 reading and then is there a current check i should do?
Just looking at doing the first charge on my battery. I used the multimeter to check my battery on V- 20 and got 12.68 so I believe this is good?
Looking at the NOCO G7200 battery charger I don't know whether to put it on 12v cold/AGM or 12v AGM + which is described as for use with an AGM that needs a higher than normal charging voltage. So i suppose the first choice and then just leave it plugged in till the green 100% light comes on?
I pulled this from the stats - Charge : 0 ~ 50oC (32 ~ 122oF )
Eclipse Power 12V 125AH AGM Deep Cycle Battery
Nominal Voltage 12V
Nominal Capacity (20HR) 125.0 AH
Dimension Length: 330 ±3mm (12.99 inches)
Width: 173 ±2mm (6.81 inches)
Total Height (with Terminal): 222 ±2mm (8.74 inches)
Approx Weight Approx 30.0 Kg
Terminal F12
Container Material ABS
Rated Capacity 125.0 AH/6.00A (20hr,1.80V/cell,25°C)
Max. Discharge Current 1000A (5s)
Internal Resistance Approx 5mΩ
Operating Temp.Range Discharge : -20 ~ 60oC (-4 ~ 140oF)
Charge : 0 ~ 50oC (32 ~ 122oF )
Storage : -20 ~ 60oC (-4 ~ 140oF)
Nominal Operating Temp. Range 25 ± 5°C (77 ± 9°F )
Cycle Use Initial Charging Current less than 30A.
Voltage 14.4V~15.0V at 25oC (77o F)
Temp. Coefficient -30mV/oC
Standby Use No limit on Initial Charging Current
Voltage 13.5V~13.8V at 25oC (77o F)
Temp. Coefficient -20mV/oC
Capacity affected by Temperature 40oC (104oF) 103%
25oC ( 77oF ) 100%
0oC ( 32oF ) 86%
Self Discharge Eclipse Power Deep Cycle AGM batteries may be stored for up to 6 months at 25oC(77oF) and then a freshening charge is required. For higher temperatures the time interval will be shorter.Comment
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Yes you can test the panel with the multimeter as you described, for current (amps) remember to have your meter properly set for DC amps >5. I am not familiar with that charger but AGM have a pretty broad range of charge tolerance, I also think the first setting you mentioned would be my guess, others here may chime in if they are more familiar with that.Comment
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