solar Water heater boilover - technical

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • lile001
    Solar Fanatic
    • Feb 2010
    • 105

    #1

    solar Water heater boilover - technical

    I've had repeated boilover problems with a solar water heater setup. The system worked pretty good for a year (just past the warrantee on the %#$&%*$ pump Grrr.) but now has lots of problems.

    Here is the setup:

    100 gallon storage tank, heat exchanger is 60 ft 3/4" soft copper coiled inside the tank.
    El Sid 10W pump run on a solar panel
    10W solar panel, bought to match the pump
    (2) AET 7X4 ft collectors.
    Wellsaver bladder expansion tank. I think it is 2 gallons (label is conveniently turned around to the wall, hard to read)
    All piping is 3/4" copper, maybe 100 ft total length and about 14 elbows.
    there is maybe 25 ft vertical from tank to collectors. Closed loop, so vertical rise does not mean pump head.
    filled with Dy Na Flow propylene glycol 50-50%
    P&T safety valve off a standard hot water heater, 210F or 150PSI. Outlet of safety valve goes into a bucket to conserve glycol. Safety valve is at the highest spot on the piping near the collectors.
    There is an emergency heat dump that kicks in at 180F tank temperature. It has never gone off as far as I know. It dumps domestic hot water to drain if it goes off.

    I can fill this system, see it all apparently run in the morning, come back in the evening and the P&T valve has popped, losing 3 gallons of glycol into a bucket, which I then carry back down a ladder, turn on the separate fill pump, refill the system, and bleed out all the air. Rinse. Repeat. I've done this maybe 5-6 times now.

    If the pump stopped, for any reason, for a hour the system would boil over in full sun, just like it is doing.

    Here are the tests I have run:

    Pump electronics has never been wet

    Pulled the El Sid pump. Ran it on 12V DC. Verified that it pumps water when the business end is put into a bucket.

    Checked the solar panel open circuit voltage and short circuit current. All within spec.

    Moved the solar panel. It was getting a little shadow in the morning, allowing the water to get up to 160F before it wasn't shaded. Now there is not even a trace of shadow on the solar panel.

    Checked system temperatures on a sunny day with a thermocouple probe. 100F tank temperature, 100F coming into the panel inlet, 120F on the panel outlet, 120F coming back into the tank. Temp varies through the day but never over 140F.


    Ran the pump in the system on 12VDC from a power supply. ran all day, didn't boil over.

    Thoroughly checked the glycol for PH, freezing temperature, and reserve alkalinity. All within spec, despite having boiled over a few times.

    Can watch the temperature gauges in the morning, and see about 20F delta T between the two collector pipes. No doubt about it, pump is pumping and collector is working of a morning.

    Checked expansion tank air pressure. 30 PSI.

    Twice, when I applied 12VDC to the El Sid pump, it failed to start for a little while. It has four LEDs, two indicate power and the other two indicates that El Sid thinks it is pumping. Only the first two LEDs came on, for a few seconds. This is fishy.

    I can also sometimes hear the El Sid hum varying, like the pump is lugging up and down. This doesn't make much sense, there should be no variation in flow once all the air is out of the system. This is also fishy.

    No flow meters in the system (mistake) so I can't tell for sure if the pump is pumping when its 4 LEDs light up. I can hear it hum though. I can also tell by temperature gauges - if the supply water is 100F and the return water is 120F coming off the collectors, then it has to be pumping.

    So how come this system is boiling over all the time? Can anyone suggest a test I have not run? I can replace the El Sid pump driver, but that's a $250 shot in the dark.
    Lawrence Lile, PE
  • russ
    Solar Fanatic
    • Jul 2009
    • 10360

    #2
    Hi Lawrence - Sorry - no help here.

    Sure does sound like the pump is stopping at times.

    Whether it a breakdown in the connection to the panel, the panel or in the driver is hard to tell.

    Doesn't seem like the pump motor is the problem - that usually does not come and go.

    It does not sound like the flow can be blocked on a periodic basis.

    It sounds like it only happens midday in high heat situations.

    Russ
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Comment

    • lile001
      Solar Fanatic
      • Feb 2010
      • 105

      #3
      Boilover woes

      Originally posted by russ
      Hi Lawrence - Sorry - no help here.

      Sure does sound like the pump is stopping at times.

      Whether it a breakdown in the connection to the panel, the panel or in the driver is hard to tell.

      Doesn't seem like the pump motor is the problem - that usually does not come and go.

      It does not sound like the flow can be blocked on a periodic basis.

      It sounds like it only happens midday in high heat situations.

      Russ
      That is why this is a real stumper. I've checked most of the simple stuff.

      It looks like a good clear day today, I am going to run the pump on 12VDC from a power supply today. If it doesn't boil over, then maybe it isn't getting strong enough power out of the solar panel, since that will be unplugged. If it does boil over, then that makes me suspect the pump is not pumping for some reason. Trash in the pipe? Flaky electronics?

      I may just buy some kind of flow measuring device that I can stick in the pipe to check pump flow. Wish I had done that in the first place, it is a great troubleshooting aid.

      I have a couple of digital thermometers, but none that record. I used to have a great setup at work for recording temperatures and other signals. It would be great to record temperature and flow and watch what happens over a day.


      What do people recommend for flowmeters?
      Lawrence Lile, PE

      Comment

      • russ
        Solar Fanatic
        • Jul 2009
        • 10360

        #4
        Hi Lawrence -

        My Schucco controller has a flow meter something like this - appropriately sized of course.



        You want to install a flow meter so you can shine a light through from the backside - makes it easier to read when it gets crudded up.

        It would be nice to be able to watch for an interruption in the power supply. There are RF transmitters for this purpose to connect to the PC http://www.rfxcom.com/

        You can probably find something a bit closer to home than this company.

        Russ
        [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

        Comment

        • Mike90250
          Moderator
          • May 2009
          • 16020

          #5
          What are the specs for your PV panel ?

          As PV panels heat up, they loose power, and your pump may be going offline.

          To direct drive a pump, you should have at least a 30watt panel, and a Linear Booster. Without enough panel, the pump can stall, and without a booster, will not restart. Perhaps the booster circuit is built into the pump, I don't know.
          Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
          || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
          || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

          solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
          gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

          Comment

          • LucMan
            Solar Fanatic
            • Jul 2010
            • 628

            #6
            Most likely you have air in the system, or the pump can't handle the flow required at max sun.

            Comment

            • Naptown
              Solar Fanatic
              • Feb 2011
              • 6880

              #7
              Two potential problems come to mind.
              1 The relief valve on the solar loop should be pressure only not a T&P valve. With a low flow situation you could be getting solution back above 200 degrees, thereby setting the T&P valve off.
              2 With the system without pressure check the air pressure on the expansion tank at the tire type valve on the end of the expansion tank. With no pressure on the system you should have 15-20PSI on the dry side of the tank. If not then the tank is saturated and will need to either be pumped back up or replaced.
              NABCEP certified Technical Sales Professional

              [URL="http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/showthread.php?5334-Solar-Off-Grid-Battery-Design"]http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/showth...Battery-Design[/URL]

              [URL]http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html[/URL] (Voltage drop Calculator among others)

              [URL="http://www.gaisma.com"]www.gaisma.com[/URL]

              Comment

              • lile001
                Solar Fanatic
                • Feb 2010
                • 105

                #8
                It's the pump!

                I got hold of Ivan Labs on the phone, makers of the El Sid. They gave me a longwinded troubleshooting routine for the El Sid pump. The achilles heel of the El Sid is starting torque. This is a very low torque motor, designed to be matched to a 10W solar panel. Put on all the watts you like, this pump still isn't going to have much starting torque.

                If any gunk gets into the works, it might be a little hard to start. With a standard motor, that would be no big deal, it would just draw a few more amps out of the wall socket. The EL SID PV can't do that, the driver has only a very limited amount of power.

                He warned that pipe dope is notorious for gunking up the impellers. Any other little object in there, maybe a shred of teflon tape or a flake of something, could also throw a spanner in the works. If the pump starts hard, it may start UNRELIABLY. This is the behaviour I observed when testing it on a 12V power supply. Sometimes it would start, sometimes it would hesitate. Yesterday, I plugged it into a power supply and it did not run at all. The Driver is OK (I will verify with a series of tests once I pull it) but there is something preventing the pump impeller from turning freely. He outlined a routine for dissassembling, cleaning and inspecting the impeller and testing the whole system outside of a plumbing setup.

                If anyone has a problem with El Sid pumps, call them up. THey don't answer email and don't have a website, so that is the only way to get help with them.
                Lawrence Lile, PE

                Comment

                • russ
                  Solar Fanatic
                  • Jul 2009
                  • 10360

                  #9
                  Hi Lawrence - Hope this does it for you!

                  Russ
                  [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

                  Comment

                  • peakbagger
                    Solar Fanatic
                    • Jun 2010
                    • 1566

                    #10
                    I expect that your solar panel is marginal and the pump borderline. My pump shipped with a 20 watt panel (from AET) and it was too small, it worked during part of the day, but in the morning and afternoon, it was marginal. I went to a 40 watt panel and its more than adequate. If I had a 30 watt panel on hand, I expect it would have been perfect.

                    Comment

                    • buhrly
                      Junior Member
                      • Mar 2011
                      • 9

                      #11
                      Flow control

                      If you are still looking to install a flow control Caleffi makes some for solar systems.
                      Jeremy Buhr
                      Metolius River Plumbing
                      [url]http://www.metoliusriverplumbing.com/[/url]
                      Solar
                      [url]http://www.metoliusriverplumbing.com/solar-heating/new-construction[/url]
                      Geothermal
                      [url]http://www.metoliusriverplumbing.com/geothermal-heat[/url]

                      Comment

                      • Snicks
                        Junior Member
                        • Jun 2011
                        • 4

                        #12
                        pump prob

                        Well I agree with Mike. But you have a major flaw in your lay out. The El Sid 10W pump only has a 3.5 foot max head. With all your elbows and pipe coil is 3 foot head so any power loss or heating of your pannel the pump cant move the water fast enough or maybe at all?

                        Comment

                        • David W. Potter
                          Junior Member
                          • Jan 2012
                          • 1

                          #13
                          Different system with perhaps a similar problem

                          Hey, all: I just found this site after tearing my hair out for a while. Just call me 'Baldy'. Good to hear some information I can use. I have a solar water heater using the 3.5 W El SID pump with a Solarex PV panel, whose capacity marking has faded into nothing, and for a long time I thought the original pump driver had died. I just bought a replacement ($136), wired it up, and nothing. I applied a TINY amount of oil to the shaft of the impeller, and the copper line is dry right now, and an AC-DC converter power supply now will run it. Turns out it is the PV panel that came with the system. It puts out power but not enough to start the driver, or even get a light on the driver to shine. And this is true of the old driver, too. So, as above, is it fair it conclude a 40-W panel should be enough to run this pump, or do I need a smaller capacity? The 3.5-W stamp on the PC board of this thing kinda scares me, since a 40-W panel is 10+ X that number. Can anyone give me more guidance on this particular issue? I have seen that Ivan Labs seems to exist in a 60s bubble, with no email or website. Thanks for the help, and a source of similar interests! Next I'll have to find a wind-turbine analog site!

                          David W. Potter

                          Comment

                          • Art VanDelay
                            Member
                            • Sep 2011
                            • 69

                            #14
                            Closed Systems CAN Survive Stagnation with the right Steamback Design Criteria

                            Mainly the expansion tank must be large enough, and the the pressure only relief valve should be about 150psi.
                            Then an intermittent pump problem at least won't burp out the fluid.
                            Mind you, this is treating the symptom, but at least you don't have to re-prime the whole system.

                            For all the details: http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thr...-System-Design

                            Comment

                            • Martshmoo
                              Member
                              • Jan 2012
                              • 39

                              #15
                              Why a solar pump, really?

                              Hi,

                              I gotta chime in.

                              I am as off grid as it gets, and I still use Electricity to run pumps to the Water Heating, and Home Heating systems.

                              It uses like 20Watts, you do not have an extra 0.16KWh a day to do this?

                              Reading all this, and hearing the cost, it would take you 100's of years before it was paid back.

                              Why not just run a DC pump if you want to save a little.

                              Sorry if I am out of order but I would just get another Panel added to my whole system, and never worry about losing Glycol again.

                              In my situation, I have been outside Throwing a Tarp over my panels during power outages-Be4 going off grid, I could not imagine every Cloudy Day!

                              My Panel (For water heating) hits 104C on a cloudy day, (With the pump off), but my Power Panels do not reach 100% their output on that same cloudy day. This could be part of the problem as well. Lightly cloudy day boil over.


                              well, my 2 cents.

                              Thanks
                              Last edited by Martshmoo; 01-20-2012, 05:38 AM. Reason: accuracy

                              Comment

                              Working...