Bad experience with evacuated tubes.

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  • tandrews
    replied
    Valid point Art, but I did make a point of getting a roll that had 460C written on it.
    I shall locate said roll to confirm as I too have shared your thought and an unplanned explosion of any kind can make one second guess themselves...

    Still, wouldn't you expect a failure at the top of the tube in any case since the bottom should have any fluid last?
    If I did choose waxy solder, I'd expect this to happen:

    Rather then just two.

    Leave a comment:


  • Art VanDelay
    replied
    I'm confused by your temperatures

    "It also raises the recorded by failure temperature evac tubes can manifest (450C)." - Tandrews

    Most of the readily available plumbing-type tin soft solders will melt at under 240C (464F). (95/5 tin/antimony)

    So I'm thinking that you may have mixed up F & C in the above observation, and that your joint melted at 240C. Are you sure about that solder melting point?

    Leave a comment:


  • tandrews
    replied
    I agree Art that brazing would have been preferred.
    I simply didn't have facility to do so, nor funds to farm it out and all the digging I did suggested 315

    Leave a comment:


  • biosolar
    replied
    fearful type

    I am wondering how dangerous the acetone and air mix is. I mean a fire on the roof that could ignite the series of rockets. What do you think?

    Leave a comment:


  • Art VanDelay
    replied
    Awesome Learnings!!

    Originally posted by tandrews
    Let me be clear that I attribute these failures to planning over equipment malfunction or failed engineering.
    Nope, Murphy's Law ALWAYS rules. Even if you had the header on, the pump or controller can fail, or the fluid might leak out of the whole system, or if you go on vacation, your controller might shut off the pump on tank high limit, etc. Or some other failure mode we can't even think of right now.
    (phos-cop brazing is actually easier than soldering because it's self fluxing and you don't need a cap. Just pinch the end.)

    Leave a comment:


  • biosolar
    replied
    Some photos here: http://biosolar.hu/stuff/uploads/DSC00760_resize.JPG

    Leave a comment:


  • russ
    replied
    NASA is also a bit pissed about the satellite you shot down

    Leave a comment:


  • LucMan
    replied
    This is Houston to tandrews, prepare for rentry.
    You have been reported to NASA for practicing rocketry without with proper clearance.

    Leave a comment:


  • tandrews
    replied
    Let me be clear that I attribute these failures to planning over equipment malfunction or failed engineering.
    While I'll never know if there was any liquid form acetone left in my 3/8" pressure vessel, that point is rather moot at the instant the cap comes off anyway.
    I do think the inner glass tube bottom has cracked, as the silvered bottom now has a bluish discoloration. I have spares and an inner tubing crack is less bothersome as it vents inside the building. Provided the heat absorbent coating does not oxidize immediately it will continue to serve.

    As I noted, I had wrapped my heat pipes with a spiral of copper scrub pad material. In the tubes that failed I had used more then others.
    This suggests the copper wrap does indeed work as intended and more is better.
    It also raises the recorded by failure temperature evac tubes can manifest (450C).
    I just wish I had a manifold installed sooner to avoid losing a tube to unintentional rocketeering.

    It was not exciting. I heard what I thought was snow leaving the eves and discovered the result later.
    Less exciting still to repair something not yet in service.

    Leave a comment:


  • mkel
    replied
    wow ... I'm surprised ... experimentation can be exciting !

    I haven't had any of my repaired tubes fail... I guess I'll put one out in the yard without a header and leave it for a few weeks to see what happens.

    I would guess all your liquid turned to vapor and with no way to get rid of the heat it wasn't condensing back to the bottom of the tube... that would explain the pressure.

    Did it break your glass tube when it blew?
    Glad nobody got hurt... good thing you weren't standing by it.
    mike








    Originally posted by tandrews
    I must add to this since I have enlightened myself since my last post.
    Truth be told, solder can be overcome by the heat generated in a evac tube setup.
    I have had a couple of my soldered heat pipes desolder themselves and turn into rockets.

    This in itself is not a huge surprise, but the failure mode is rather surprising.
    In both cases, the tubes desoldered themselves ON THE BOTTOM.
    They effectively became bottle rockets at that point, no splits, nice clean desolder on the bottom end.
    One tried to punch through the roof of my thermal shed, then mired itself in the plastic foil bubble wrap I've encased the room in.

    I should note this occurred prior to installing the heat removal manifold on top, and likely would not have occurred with that heat removed.
    Those tubes that failed had an excess of copper scrub pad wrapped around them and I suspect it insulated and removed airflow up the evac tube. In the absence of a heat draining manifold, heat built up to over the 460 melting temp of my chosen solder.

    So, while unlikely and no reason to avoid using solder for DIY, one must make sure they are pulling the heat off the pipe toot sweet or risk bottle rocket heat tubes.
    There, I said it.

    Leave a comment:


  • russ
    replied
    Originally posted by tandrews
    I have had a couple of my soldered heat pipes desolder themselves and turn into rockets.
    Maybe we should nickname you Mr Excitement? Sounds like too much fun!

    Leave a comment:


  • tandrews
    replied
    I must add to this since I have enlightened myself since my last post.
    Truth be told, solder can be overcome by the heat generated in a evac tube setup.
    I have had a couple of my soldered heat pipes desolder themselves and turn into rockets.

    This in itself is not a huge surprise, but the failure mode is rather surprising.
    In both cases, the tubes desoldered themselves ON THE BOTTOM.
    They effectively became bottle rockets at that point, no splits, nice clean desolder on the bottom end.
    One tried to punch through the roof of my thermal shed, then mired itself in the plastic foil bubble wrap I've encased the room in.

    I should note this occurred prior to installing the heat removal manifold on top, and likely would not have occurred with that heat removed.
    Those tubes that failed had an excess of copper scrub pad wrapped around them and I suspect it insulated and removed airflow up the evac tube. In the absence of a heat draining manifold, heat built up to over the 460 melting temp of my chosen solder.

    So, while unlikely and no reason to avoid using solder for DIY, one must make sure they are pulling the heat off the pipe toot sweet or risk bottle rocket heat tubes.
    There, I said it.

    Leave a comment:


  • biosolar
    replied
    Originally posted by roadcracks
    Me too
    Do you have any photos of the defects?

    Leave a comment:


  • roadcracks
    replied
    bad news

    Me too

    Leave a comment:


  • biosolar
    replied
    Originally posted by biosolar
    I was informed that our local Apricus distributor announced to stop selling this brand due to heat-pipe faliures.
    "It's a serious problem - but rather a shame - that Apricus was't able to supply quality heat-pipes. The heat-pipe replacement under warranty caused extra cost that we couldn't accept."

    Leave a comment:

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