Flat solar thermal panels or evacuated tube?

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  • Peter69_56
    Junior Member
    • Oct 2011
    • 26

    #46
    Plate vs tube

    Originally posted by Jbergess
    There's a lot of good information contained in this thread. I work for a manufacture where we distribute both flat plates and evacuated tubes.

    It all comes down to value - which system produces the most in your area for what you spend. However, there are a few general pros and cons for each technology to consider.

    Evacuated tubes produce more on cloudy / overcast days than flat plates. They also produce higher internal temperatures (our manifolds generally stay around 160-170F during the day), and are easier to maintain.

    The internal temperatures will not burn anyone or cause a hazard - the heat is inside the glass tubes, and the vacuum insulation makes the outside the same temperature as it is outside.

    If damage occurs - such as in a storm - a tube can be replaced easily and with minimal expense, and without draining the system or messing with any piping or components. Most manufactures will pack in a few extra spare tubes with each collector - however, replacement tubes cost around $25/each.

    Evacuated tubes are also modular - they come in separate pieces that are assembled on the roof. Therefore, it's generally easier to install from a labor standpoint.

    The cons, are that evacuated tubes are generally about 20% more expensive than their flat plate counterparts. They also can get very hot - and generate too much heat, so a form of heat dissipation is needed, especially in the summer months. This adds about 10% extra cost in components.

    In a closed loop system (or a drain back), this is the only real difference in cost versus a flat plate. Flat plates have the same general components - controls, tanks, pumps, glycol, etc - other than dissipation and the valve that controls them.

    The real point to consider is it it worth the extra $300 to $500 in system costs for an evacuated tube versus a flat plate for what you receive in return?

    The answer to the question is that it depends on really where you live. In warmer climates where the outside air temperature stays fairly warm (70F+), and the weather is fairly consistently sunny, the flat plates can be a better value overall, as they will perform as well as the evacuated tubes. So in areas like Florida, Texas, Arizona, etc, most contractors and homeowners tend to opt for flat plates.

    In cooler and/or cloudy climates, the evacuated tubes out perform the flat plates. So if your temperature in the winter and shoulder months stays 50F or lower, or you have rainy/cloudy seasons, most contractors and homeowners tend to opt for evacuated tubes.

    The other thing to keep in mind and consider is that some flat plates can be very inexpensive and cheaply made - and some evacuated tubes can be very expensively priced. I have seen a flat plate sell for $450 or so, and an evacuated tube collector sell for $3500. Therefore, at times, when people compare costs, they run across prices like these and get an idea that tubes are vastly more expensive.

    My recommendation would be to shop around and ensure you get the best value for your money. Look at the SRCC certificates and see what kind of production you get for the price you pay, and make sure you get nothing less than a 10 year warranty on either technology.

    Our flat plates generally sell to a contractor for around $950 or so and the evacuated tubes that we manufacture in the states generally sell for around $1250 or so - and other manufactures will generally be around the same price or so.

    Hope this information helps!
    Thank you for the "first" unbiased report I have seen on plate vs tube. Most are either plate or tube sellers and so are clearly biased. This thread was good in that you have no barrow to push in either direction. I totally agree with your assesment. Each has their good and bad, and your location and weather conditions, as well as ability to purchase at resonable cost all needs to be taken into account.

    Well done

    Comment

    • Peter69_56
      Junior Member
      • Oct 2011
      • 26

      #47
      Legionella

      [QUOTE=russ;17152]Those are the common claims made by manufacturers but - observations I have made from my system and my thoughts have trouble with their statement. I collect power readings from four meters every morning and hot water system data about every hour. Solar insolation is collected from my Davis weather station both Global solar radiation and UV are recorded.

      1) I consider that my system is functional for about 85% of available light. The very early morning and late evening light no system will pickup. If the insolation for a day is 2000 watts/m2 then you really have 1700 watts to work with. Even if the vacuum tube collectors extend the day you might say 50% of nothin is still nothin.

      2) My hot water system electrical backup is set for 50 degrees. I don't need or want water hotter - now for a radiator heating system OK hotter is needed. For in floor radiant heating I have the temperature set at 35

      Comment

      • Peter69_56
        Junior Member
        • Oct 2011
        • 26

        #48
        Heat sink paste

        [QUOTE=roscho04;33026]Hello Stone hope all is well:
        I really don

        Comment

        • Peter69_56
          Junior Member
          • Oct 2011
          • 26

          #49
          Originally posted by russ
          Like Roscho04 says - depends on your location and requirements.

          Both types of collectors can collect similar amounts of heat - flat plates are better for low temperature applications (such as household use hot water) in temperate climates while evacuated tube types do better when higher temperature water is required, in cloudy situations and during the winter in cold areas.

          I have the flat plate type - mild climate here. A neighbor has a big bank of evacuated tube types and keeps a good portion covered all summer.

          Roscho04 is just the reverse of my situation - for his location the evacuated tube type is better.
          What tilt are the tubes? What latitude are you at? If the neighbour had his tubes tilted for winter bias it would reduce the overheat in summer. All the info I have seen recommends about +20 degrees above latitude. I am at 38 degrees south so will tilt mine to 45 degrees for more heat in winter and take the edge off summer heat

          Comment

          • Peter69_56
            Junior Member
            • Oct 2011
            • 26

            #50
            Originally posted by Naptown
            Just had an issue today.A competitor called with-an ET problem. Seems they have a 120Gallon Rheem tank with wraparound heat exchanger. 50 tubes. Tank temp 110 F manifold temp 250 F What do you think is wrong? i know the answer but throwing it out for comment. We are at 39 north latitude.
            Circulating pump failed? or blockage so no circulation flow?

            Comment

            • russ
              Solar Fanatic
              • Jul 2009
              • 10360

              #51
              Originally posted by Peter69_56
              What tilt are the tubes? What latitude are you at? If the neighbour had his tubes tilted for winter bias it would reduce the overheat in summer. All the info I have seen recommends about +20 degrees above latitude. I am at 38 degrees south so will tilt mine to 45 degrees for more heat in winter and take the edge off summer heat
              They are on the roof so it is a bit difficult plus a lot of ugly of the tilt is changed.
              [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

              Comment

              • russ
                Solar Fanatic
                • Jul 2009
                • 10360

                #52
                Originally posted by Peter69_56
                What about Legionella bacteria in your water? The water should be heated up to 60 C once a day to kill them off? Are you using the water for domestic use??
                Using the water for domestic use - legionella - one of my more minor concerns - such as in no interest.
                [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

                Comment

                • emarq
                  Junior Member
                  • Dec 2011
                  • 3

                  #53
                  Low water temperature on evacuated tubes system

                  Hi guys,

                  I need a help. I live in Brazil ( lat. 23.5 South) and I have a thermal reservoir (110gl or 400 liters) and 25 evacuated tubes (2m (6.5ft) long each tube) installed in thermosiphon system in a 25

                  Comment

                  • mtmtntop
                    Junior Member
                    • Nov 2009
                    • 17

                    #54
                    are you using a heat exchanger or directly using the water you heat? Is this a pumped system or working off of a thermosyphon? If you are using a heat exchanger, how big is the reservoir? If not, i agree with other posts that it is dangerous to use this water for domestic purposes due to bacteria you are surely growing in this perfect environment.

                    Comment

                    • russ
                      Solar Fanatic
                      • Jul 2009
                      • 10360

                      #55
                      Originally posted by mtmtntop
                      are you using a heat exchanger or directly using the water you heat? Is this a pumped system or working off of a thermosyphon? If you are using a heat exchanger, how big is the reservoir? If not, i agree with other posts that it is dangerous to use this water for domestic purposes due to bacteria you are surely growing in this perfect environment.
                      The other points are good plus how much water is consumed daily.

                      The point about 'dangerous to use this water for domestic purposes due to bacteria' is totally off the mark.
                      [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

                      Comment

                      • emarq
                        Junior Member
                        • Dec 2011
                        • 3

                        #56
                        Directly using the heated water.
                        Not a pumped system.

                        About the bacteria. That

                        Comment

                        • emarq
                          Junior Member
                          • Dec 2011
                          • 3

                          #57
                          About the hot water consumption i think it depends on how hot the water is delivered by the solar heater. The highest the water temperature the lowest will be the consumption of the hot water from the reservoir to reach water at 40-42

                          Comment

                          • mtmtntop
                            Junior Member
                            • Nov 2009
                            • 17

                            #58
                            ok. let me re phrase it. i would not use this water for drinking or washing dishes at my house.

                            Comment

                            • russ
                              Solar Fanatic
                              • Jul 2009
                              • 10360

                              #59
                              I have a bit of trouble understanding the current concern and government recommendations concerning hot water temperature. There are areas in any system both up stream and downstream of the water heater that the proper conditions are available for such growth.

                              I pump from a well to a large sump (35 m3) where chlorine is metered in while pumping. From there water goes to a carbon filter, to a softener and then to distribution between 5 homes and common users. In each home there is a UV lamp where the cold water enters the home. I am presently buying a reverse osmosis unit for several reasons - one our water is very hard 500 mg/l hardness approximately and I want RO water for drinking/cooking - I have no idea of how good the well water is and testing facilities such as are easily available in the states are more costly and not so common here.

                              To me, a lot of the concern over legionella is like mandatory safety warnings on many things - iron ore powder standard in a bottle has a warning that makes it sound lethal - I lived in and worked in the stuff for a lifetime.

                              Keeping a healthy system is important - how to do it has many ideas and solutions - many of which work equally well.
                              [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

                              Comment

                              • LucMan
                                Solar Fanatic
                                • Jul 2010
                                • 624

                                #60
                                Legionella would be more of a concern on open type systems, IE if you have an open to the atmosphere water storage tank or pumping from a lake or pond. If pumping from an open water source you will also have other organisms to worry about. Legionella is transmitted by air, it does not come from water unless it is a contaminated source, chlorination or better yet treating with ozone will kill it. Ozone is the best disinfectant available it kills all viruses, bacteria, and protozoa. Ozone generators are readily available and simple to install and maintain.

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