Hot Water by Solar Electric direct via MPPT ?
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Yep, it's semi-climate controlled now. I am kinda glad as I have made good use of the space. -
Understood.Folks w/ insulated and vapor barriered attic floors might be wise to employ other means for heat recovery, particularly in cold(er) climates. Also, if on the fllor, any irr. tubing might make some of the space unfit for other uses. Just sayin'.Leave a comment:
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I did, had the insulation changed from ceiling to the roof spray foam during renovation, attic now does not rise above 81 deg. So I am able to keep some operating radio equipment up there, with shorter cable runs to the tower.Leave a comment:
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Mark you really do not understand power, If you did, then you would know ground has no function with respect to power. Secondly to generate 8 Kwh per day is going to require a 2000 to 4000 watt panel system depending on your location. Anything you take off grid is going to cost you many times more than the power company will charge you for it for the rest of your life. You cannot do what you want th eway you think you can. You just do not understand the technology and how to apply it.
73's to ya
KF5LJW out.Leave a comment:
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depending on your latitude, I have found 500' of black PEC 1/2" tubing in the attic a great source of warm water and a great way to preheat water for an instant on water heater. Cheap and easy to install.Leave a comment:
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And then there's this: http://waterheatertimer.org/Convert-...er-heater.html
Maybe you can find an old water heater, convert it to dc as described above, and use it as a preheater for
your existing water heater? Could be cheap, but you'd have to do it all yourself. Good luck.
- DanLeave a comment:
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You would need approximately 8KWH input to heat the the water in a 50 gallon tank 60 Degrees F. You can do the math from there to figure out how many panels are required to do what you are attempting to do.
The site is misleading because they assume that the panels produce max power for 9 hrs per day all year long.
In the real world that doesn't happen, the average is about 4 hrs per day for the whole year. Go to PV watts and calculate the output of the panels for your location.Last edited by LucMan; 02-06-2016, 11:24 AM.Leave a comment:
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There is a serious lack of understanding of the terminology and technology going on here.
The MPPT circuitry found in PV Charge Controllers (CC) and Grid Tie Inverters (GTI) is designed to extract the maximum possible power from a panel array and deliver that power at a selected voltage and whatever current is then available.
But a water heater element is a fixed resistance. The only way to change the amount of power it is drawing is to change the applied voltage.
What you need instead is a circuit closer to the design of the Linear Current Booster (LCB). That type of unit delivers the maximum power panel to the load (usually a pump motor) at whatever voltage causes the load to draw the available amount of power. It operates an MPPT algorithm on the input side to change its effective input resistance to match the available current from the panels. But it also includes the complimentary output circuit to deliver the exact amount of power available to the actual load by adjusting the output voltage. Sort of the inverse of MPPT.
Regards, MarkLeave a comment:
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FWIW, solar PV driving heat pump water heaters seems to be cheaper than using solar thermal panels these days, going by
Back in early 2012, in an article called “Solar Thermal Is Dead,” I announced that “it’s now cheaper to heat water with a photovoltaic array than solar thermal collectors.” Now that almost three years have passed, it’s worth revisiting the topic. In the years since that article was written, the cost to install a photovoltaic (PV) system has dropped significantly. Moreover, I’ve come across monitoring data that allow for a more accurate estimate of the amount of electricity needed to heat water with electric resistance elements or a heat pump.
Thanks, MarkLeave a comment:
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My goal is to get into solar as an experiment. I can easily put up two or three panels for about $2/Watt.
Run just two conductors into the basement through one small hole. I already have grounding array on roof from several ham radio antennas.
Since domestic hot water is one of the greatest energy hogs in my small household, I think that any increase in my ground water temperature would be worthwhile. I can leave the top element on the grid, or feed into a tankless to top off the temp when required.
I did look into heatpump water heaters, but I'd have to replace the heat they suck out of the basement and since I run humidifiers for 3 months of the year, I'd have to replace the humidity as well. Not sure how that would play out.
I keep some expensive reptiles in the basement so I don't want to needlessly chill them with a heat pump.
Also a pv system is simple for me. Thermal with the pumps, leaks, stainless lines, fragile tubes, etc. is a maintaince problem.
Also, if this introduction doesn't work, I can reuse or expand the pv panels for other use.
Thanks to all for your advice.
Regards, MarkLeave a comment:
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Greetings,
I've been reading these informative messages for a while and I have a question that I didn't come across here.
Is it feasible to place ~600-750W of panels feeding that power to a MPPT to the lower element on a well insulated residential hot water tank? Say 50 -80 gals. I'm in Philadelphia PA.
I saw a MPPT offered at http://techluck.com/index.php#buy but I'm not sure if this can really be so easy. Could I be looking at a scam?
Appreciate any advice. Regards, Mark
The MPPT circuitry found in PV Charge Controllers (CC) and Grid Tie Inverters (GTI) is designed to extract the maximum possible power from a panel array and deliver that power at a selected voltage and whatever current is then available.
But a water heater element is a fixed resistance. The only way to change the amount of power it is drawing is to change the applied voltage.
What you need instead is a circuit closer to the design of the Linear Current Booster (LCB). That type of unit delivers the maximum power panel to the load (usually a pump motor) at whatever voltage causes the load to draw the available amount of power. It operates an MPPT algorithm on the input side to change its effective input resistance to match the available current from the panels. But it also includes the complimentary output circuit to deliver the exact amount of power available to the actual load by adjusting the output voltage. Sort of the inverse of MPPT.
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FWIW, solar PV driving heat pump water heaters seems to be cheaper than using solar thermal panels these days, going by
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...ly-really-dead
However, on the referenced article, I'd question the $9K price for a solar thermal collector. I installed 2 high end 4 X 8 Sunearth selective surface units w/ new piping for $3,200, materials/labor before ITC Granted it was 2007, and the tank was already in place, but $3,200 vs. 9K is a stretch in my book. BTW, my solar fraction is >> .90 on the DHW load. Every situation is different.Last edited by J.P.M.; 02-06-2016, 12:30 AM.Leave a comment:
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FWIW, solar PV driving heat pump water heaters seems to be cheaper than using solar thermal panels these days, going by
Back in early 2012, in an article called “Solar Thermal Is Dead,” I announced that “it’s now cheaper to heat water with a photovoltaic array than solar thermal collectors.” Now that almost three years have passed, it’s worth revisiting the topic. In the years since that article was written, the cost to install a photovoltaic (PV) system has dropped significantly. Moreover, I’ve come across monitoring data that allow for a more accurate estimate of the amount of electricity needed to heat water with electric resistance elements or a heat pump.
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Extremely horrible idea. If you want to heat water with solar, use Solar Thermal panels. Heck of a lot cheaper, more efficient, and actually works. You could not use a MPPT controller, nor would you want to if possible.Leave a comment:
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