New to solar

[Dean4r]

Hi. I'm new to the forum and just moved into a house in FL with a 4 x 10 solar collector on the roof and an 80 gal. storage tank/electric hot water heater. After sweating some pipes and replacing small components- air vent, freeze protection valve, the system is up and running. System has a Guardian Goldline controller, Grundfor typeUM 15 -10 pump, Rheem Fury 80 gal.tank and a Honeywell V4043a1 motorized valve- all circa 2003.

I'm wondering if anybody is familiar with these components, their dependability, settings and possible pitfalls/ weaknesses. Thanks in advance for any comments.

[J.P.M.]

Hi. I'm new to the forum and just moved into a house in FL with a 4 x 10 solar collector on the roof and an 80 gal. storage tank/electric hot water heater. After sweating some pipes and replacing small components- air vent, freeze protection valve, the system is up and running. System has a Guardian Goldline controller, Grundfor typeUM 15 -10 pump, Rheem Fury 80 gal.tank and a Honeywell V4043a1 motorized valve- all circa 2003.

I'm wondering if anybody is familiar with these components, their dependability, settings and possible pitfalls/ weaknesses. Thanks in advance for any comments.

Unless you know something about plumbing AND solar thermal, have the system checked out by a vendor who knows both - well.

Assuming this is a system that circulates potable H2O through the collectors, that is without a secondary circulation loop that uses a heat exchanger:

- Is the system currently operating ?
- How old ?
- Pressure tested ?
- Freeze protection - i.e., does the Goldline controller function correctly ?


Depending on H2O quality/hardness/etc and the state of (any) anodes in the tank, it may be reaching the end of its service life. The controller and pump usually last longer than other components. Unless the collector suffered a burst failure from freezing, or if stagnant a lot from being idle/empty or some control problems, and aside from some possible scaling inside the tubes, it is probably still fit for service. Again, get it checked out, particularly the valves, including the actuator on the motorized valve.


If you decide to keep it, and there is a secondary loop:

- Change the antifreeze.
- Consider flushing/cleaning the current heat exchanger, or replacing it. They foul/scale/get dirty and in so doing inhibit performance.

Thermal systems do need more maint. than PV, but a decently maintained solar thermal system can provide 20+ or so years of production.

Other members who sell/service solar thermal probably have better and more practical information than I've suggested here.

Welcome to the neighborhood.

[Dean4r]

Excellent. Thanks, JPM

[Dean4r]

I took the actuator on the motorized valve off and saw the tiny gear turning. I sprayed the mechanism and freed that up, but the mechanism stays in one spot after the gear has run it ou. Is this normal?

[LucMan]

The zone valve operating gear stops when the the valve is in the open position, it basically jams the motor.
When the valve is deenergized the spring returns the valve to the closed position.
Can you upload a piping sketch of your system?

[J.P.M.]

Excellent. Thanks, JPM

You're welcome. Opinions vary.

[Dean4r]

This is very close to what my system looks like. My zone valve is on the pipe coming in from the top of the collector. It's a moot point now that I saw the plate the ZV is mounted to is dripping badly. I shut the system down and will cut and sweat some pipes after I get a new ZV. Thanks for the xplanation, LucMan, I saw the gears retract the valve after I shut it off. It appears the tang to attach the return spring is also broken...

[LucMan]

I really don't understand what the purpose of the zone valve is unless it is a bypass to a heat dump zone.
You need to make sure that the ZV is rated for domestic water (most are not) and the pressure that you are running in the system. Check Honeywell's catalog for specs.
No need to unsweat the valve body unless it's cracked or distorted from freezing. Just buy a new valve and remove the 4 screws that hold it together, lift the valve assembly from the body, take the o ring out. Now use all the new parts on the old valve body.
I do this on on several Honeywell ZV's every year instead of unsweating them, especially on heating systems where the air would have to be purged from the system after draining.

[Dean4r]

LM, I'm doing exactly as you suggest.I took off the valve body to find alot of corrosion and a chewed up valve stop. I ordered a powerhead conversion kit for the 4043 model from Supply House for $18 pp- cheaper than ebay. I've got some fine grit wet/dry sandaper to make everything brite and shiney along with some Permatex gasket sealer. When installing should the valve stopper stop at the correct spot because of gear runnout or is adjustment needed? Thanks again, LucMan

[LucMan]

No adjustments required, the ball rests against the outlet ring.