Using solar pipes as shadebars - Any visually nice options?

[MikeInSoCal]

I haven't had much chance to check in, but wanted to give an update that we're now planning on 2"x4"s instead of 2"x6"s. Inetdog is right about the shading reasons for this. We might put black pvc on top of these 2"x4"s at some point, but right now, this whole remodel is getting so overwhelming that that won't be until later. As several people have suggested, the return might not be worth the effort, so I need to it down when I have some time and figure that out.

I really appreciate the help I've gotten here. When we do finally figure out which route to take, I'll report back.

[MikeSolar]

Is this still just possibly a fence? Excuse my fast crappy drafting ability but if you used 2 pieces of corrugated black steel front to back and screwed them together with 1.25" PVC between and screwed some fence boards at whatever spacing to the steel opposite the tubes, you could get a partial solar absorber. make a header across the top and bottom and get a metal U channel to cover the header. It could look like a fence, and be UV stable as it is not directly in the sun. You will need some imagination with this drawing LOL.

fence.pdf

[russ]

For an idea of how much heat can be collected you might try http://rimstar.org/renewnrg/solar_po...ter_diy_fp.htm

also http://rimstar.org/renewnrg/solar_po...ing_diy_ds.htm

[inetdog]

There is no way you can have any type of solar system that is completely hidden from view.. If it looks neat I think its acceptable.. Like a solar hot water system on a house or solar panels.
Unless you are going to have a gas or grid electricity heater you are going to have some parts of the system visible.

Inet dog mabe you have a better solution?

Not really. I was mainly addressing the use of black poly pipe instead of PVC, as was being discussed earlier. Going with the 2" pipe, I would go for PVC, nice and straight and neatly installed rather than curvy black poly clamped down somehow at intervals. But since the PVC has no UV resistance it would have to be kept painted.
The last suggestion along those lines was that maybe running black poly on top of the slats of the shade bars would keep it out of sight where the curves would not be an issue. If the bars had been 2x4s flat instead of 2x6s on edge that could have been a solution.

[Sunny Solar]

There is no way you can have any type of solar system that is completely hidden from view.. If it looks neat I think its acceptable.. Like a solar hot water system on a house or solar panels.
Unless you are going to have a gas or grid electricity heater you are going to have some parts of the system visible.

Inet dog mabe you have a better solution?

[inetdog]

400 ft is a fair length and would collect a useful amount of heat.?? And not a lot of work to add the piping to the tops of the boards.
If you go the wood on edge then I think 2 x 4 would look better as 6in plus the 2in pipe makes 8in and I think its going to look very heavy when viewed side on??
Really if you use 2x 4 then you have a perfect mount for the pipes..

I think that one reason for the 6" tall wood at 6" spacing was to be able to completely block sunlight coming in shallower than about a 45 degree angle. So the combination of 2x34 and 2" pipe would do the same thing. But that also means that the 2" pipe will be completely visible, bends and all, sitting at the top of the wood.

[Sunny Solar]

400 ft is a fair length and would collect a useful amount of heat.?? And not a lot of work to add the piping to the tops of the boards.
If you go the wood on edge then I think 2 x 4 would look better as 6in plus the 2in pipe makes 8in and I think its going to look very heavy when viewed side on??
Really if you use 2x 4 then you have a perfect mount for the pipes..

[inetdog]

The architect wants me to put 2"x6" boards on edge on there, at 6" centers.

From that description, it sounds like the goal is to block low angle sun which would be hitting the windows or doors, without blocking as much of the high angle sun which is just hitting the area under the screen.
In that case, I think you are right that the total heat gain from the pipe network would not justify the bother.

[MikeInSoCal]

Send the wife on vacation and have it done before she comes back?

I've done worse . . .

I might even try the corrugated panels idea and say it's just "temporary." Amazing how quickly "temporary" can become "permanent."

I like the idea of putting the pipes on top of either wood or metal pieces. That might be the only way to go. The architect wants me to put 2"x6" boards on edge on there, at 6" centers. I coulp put pvc pipes on top of that, but that doesn't make for a lot of pipes. Maybe 9 or so. That's a total of only about 400 linear feet. I wonder if it's even worth the trouble at that point.

[Sunny Solar]

Send the wife on vacation and have it done before she comes back?

Not as silly as it seems. If its done its amazing how easy it is then to accept it and after a while not notice imperfections.

[russ]

Send the wife on vacation and have it done before she comes back?

[Sunny Solar]

True the water in the pipes is reasonably heavy (Using 2"dia tube you would have about 5.5lb of water per 4ft.)but I dont think it is going to sag much even if no slats used. the slats would be really there to keep the tubing in a nice straight line and provide a small amount of support. That flexible tubing is actually quite strong and not that easy to bend. And we are not talking about a 6in dia tube but 2in or less,and its only one tube per slat obviously.
Its only a suggestion same as using aluminium channel. Now that should not sag much.
Im just throwing out ideas that may be used or improved on..

Russ you have some better ideas you have not yet posted?

[russ]

The water in the pipes adds up fast - slats have virtually no load carrying capacity.

[Sunny Solar]

But if the clipped at reasonably close spacing that should hold the tubing straight. how about the other idea in a metal ..aluminium channel??

[inetdog]

How about first putting either wood slats over the beams about 1in x1/2in and clip the flexible pipe to that? Or run aluminium? channel across the beams 1in high x width of pipe and sit the flexible tubing in that. Paint it black. It may also help collect heat? and reduce wind cooling the pipe?

It all depends on whether the tops of the slats (and the curvy pipes!) will be visible from the patio or from inside the house somewhere.