73W panel diode question..

[Rooster]

I bought a used panel (works fine!) recently.. It has a box on the back and a sticker from the manufacturer that indicated how it should be wired for 12 or 6 volt use, and mentioned the diode placement (if applicable) as it said. I (foolishly) assumed it meant it was installed (can't remember the wording, but seemed to indicate it was there). Long story and a possibly damaged battery later, I have discovered after opening said box, that there is no diode installed..

I've no idea what could work and what wouldn't. Example.. I 1N4148's handy. Can I use one of those, or would it fry? The diode is only there to prevent the flow of electricity in the wrong direction (IE NOT to drain the battery BACK into the panel), so that would work, right? Or would the amperage stored in the battery shred the 4148? Any advice appreciated

EDIT: I appologize, it's not a 73W panel it's a 53W - I was unable to edit the title/subject

[Naptown]

Those diodes are bypass diodes to allow for partial shading.
If you have this connected through any reasonable quality charge controller that will have the diodes to prevent current from going back into the panel from the battery.
How is the panel wired for 6 or 12V.

[Rooster]

It's wired for 12V operation.

For "testing" I didn't/don't have any charge controller.. Had the battery direct-wired to the panel. What I was doing was charging it during the day, and unplugging the battery, bringing it in to hook up to an inverter, than running the inverter with various stuff hooked up.. Testing as best I could how long it would last powering "item x". One night, I wasn't at home, got home later, but forgot about it.. Went out later the next day to discover a dead battery.

Until I decide how serious I'm going to get on this, I was looking at a DIY project (http://www.mdpub.com/555Controller/index.html). I'm sure there are lots of cons using this over a "professional grade" charging controller - But my panel and I (and the 12V battery I have) aren't geared up for much more. It's more of a proof of concept, get a computer or device off the 'grid' and show the wife it can be done, prior to considering a large-scale operation. I'm not sure though, whether that charging controller I linked above includes said diode though, and regardless I'd like to slap one in there in any case, since this is a 'testing' panel and will likely get hooked up to all sorts of random projects for 'testing'

Edit: In fact, he has a block diagram (of an average hookup) that would indicate the diode is necessary and not included in his device.

[Brijesh]

It's wired for 12V operation.

For "testing" I didn't/don't have any charge controller.. Had the battery direct-wired to the panel. What I was doing was charging it during the day, and unplugging the battery, bringing it in to hook up to an inverter, than running the inverter with various stuff hooked up.. Testing as best I could how long it would last powering "item x". One night, I wasn't at home, got home later, but forgot about it.. Went out later the next day to discover a dead battery.

Until I decide how serious I'm going to get on this, I was looking at a DIY project (http://www.mdpub.com/555Controller/index.html). I'm sure there are lots of cons using this over a "professional grade" charging controller - But my panel and I (and the 12V battery I have) aren't geared up for much more. It's more of a proof of concept, get a computer or device off the 'grid' and show the wife it can be done, prior to considering a large-scale operation. I'm not sure though, whether that charging controller I linked above includes said diode though, and regardless I'd like to slap one in there in any case, since this is a 'testing' panel and will likely get hooked up to all sorts of random projects for 'testing'

Edit: In fact, he has a block diagram (of an average hookup) that would indicate the diode is necessary and not included in his device.

Dear Rooster

If your panel is not protected with diode then the current will go back(if the battery is full charged) to panel and it will reduce power output by 20-30%. if your battery bank is bigger like 100amp then you don't need of charge controller. As it will take 2 - 3 days to charge the battery.

If you can find Diode easily near to you kindly buy 6A4 diode and fix in J-box

[russ]

Dear Rooster

If your panel is not protected with diode then the current will go back(if the battery is full charged) to panel and it will reduce power output by 20-30%. if your battery bank is bigger like 100amp then you don't need of charge controller. As it will take 2 - 3 days to charge the battery.

If you can find Diode easily near to you kindly buy 6A4 diode and fix in J-box

This is gonna be good!

[Rooster]

This is gonna be good!

LoL don't hide behind the couch, lol

Tnx for all the help, appreciate it!

[Naptown]

Just curious why you would build a charge controller when they can be bought for like $15?

[Rooster]

For the hobby aspect of it, and pretty much I only need one or two parts tops, costing all of... $.76 Well, $1.72 now with that diode added to the BOM..