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  • Ampster
    Solar Fanatic
    • Jun 2017
    • 3650

    #16
    Originally posted by w00dy
    ..........
    So, getting back to the original reason for my post - the hot tub, and other items, have resulted in higher electrical use at our home, which has in turn had me contemplating adding a few additional panels to my system, just like the original poster. Since adding new panels would mean at least a new branch circuit I don't know if it would be doable for my setup...the OP's situation may be different. Hopefully my story helps out.
    Adding another circuit should not be a problem and you may be able to use the existing conduit to your roof. Worse case you might have to add a small sub panel. Probably the hardest part would be finding someone to install just a few panels. Sometimes you can find someone who works for a contractor who can do the work. You might have to pull the permit.
    How much more room to you have on your roof?
    9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012

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    • w00dy
      Member
      • Jul 2015
      • 82

      #17
      Originally posted by Ampster
      Adding another circuit should not be a problem and you may be able to use the existing conduit to your roof. Worse case you might have to add a small sub panel. Probably the hardest part would be finding someone to install just a few panels. Sometimes you can find someone who works for a contractor who can do the work. You might have to pull the permit.
      How much more room to you have on your roof?
      I have some good roof area left if needed for more panels...for now it isn't pressing, but I would love to have the option for adding them in my back pocket. Thanks for the information. I guess a sub panel might be an option and/or adding an extra pair of wires to my existing conduit.

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      • J.P.M.
        Solar Fanatic
        • Aug 2013
        • 14926

        #18
        Originally posted by w00dy

        It is a small plug-in patio hot tub running at 120v. It is covered when not being used - however, the old cover is toast. A new cover is on order that should be better than the old cover. This tub is a partially spray foamed version, where some of the pipes are covered and the fiberglass tub shell itself only has around 1-2" of foam on it...so not the best insulation by any measure. Buying a better insulated tub would cost $5000 to $6000 minimum.

        We do have natural gas, but I have yet to see a stand alone hot tub heated by natural gas that is affordable - I have seen natural gas heaters with installation costs that would be upwards of $1500-$2000 and that might only save us $30 a month...not sure that pencils out.

        The tub creates a bit of a hum when running the low speed pump to keep it filtered, and more importantly hot. This low hum is very annoying and makes it hard to sleep since the tub is right next to our bedroom - so we are using one of the features built into the tubs smart control panel to always shut it off between 11pm to 7am. This of course means that the only time it will be heating is during the day - and since this tub is configured to run on 120v it doesn't heat up very quickly.

        We are on time of use for our PG&E electricity, and I hate the fact that if I want to use the tub during the evening I have to heat it during peak times, and if I want it hot enough to use it first thing in the morning, then I have to make sure it is at say 104­° at 11PM before it shuts off for the night - this means the tub is still only around 99° 8 hours later.

        I have even looked into converting to a small 24hour circulation pump for the unit to make it virtually quiet. If it had a small dedicated circulation pump then it could be setup to also heat at night while we are sleeping at the off peak electric rates...that alone would probably save us a ton of $$$. But I would need to figure out the plumbing and electrical details to add a circulation pump to a system that is not designed for that type of pump.

        The heater is a 1.4Kw heater at 120v, and some charts I have seen tell me it should heat water around 2.5° per hour. In my case the tub loses 5-7° per 8 hours (overnight), so I need 2-3 hours just to get back to temperature - I don't know what the heat loss is during the day...

        I have just resigned myself to the reality that a hot tub costs money to run - I think I am averaging $45 a month or so to run it. That is the long story anyway!

        So, getting back to the original reason for my post - the hot tub, and other items, have resulted in higher electrical use at our home, which has in turn had me contemplating adding a few additional panels to my system, just like the original poster. Since adding new panels would mean at least a new branch circuit I don't know if it would be doable for my setup...the OP's situation may be different. Hopefully my story helps out.
        Yea, hot tubs cost $$ and maint. time, but that's the price of convenience. Still off topic, 1,400 W = 4777 BTU/hr. If it was me, I'd utilize known, avail. and simple technology and get a 30 gal. nat. gas fired domestic tank type water heater w/ a 30 - 40,000 BTU/hr. input and plumb it to the hot tub w/a small circulating pump w/ a flow rate of a couple GPM. I replaced my 80 gal. solar tank a couple of years ago for $900 or so, but you're interested in BTU output not water tank size, and it won't take much of a gas fired heater input to get about 5X greater heat rate than 4,800 BTU/hr, for probably something like 10 F/hr. increase or greater for a 30,000 BTU firing rate at 70 % eff. The gas will also be a lot cheaper fuel, like ~ $0.04/kWh equivalent cost. You might not be able to make the savings worth it, but it'll probably save more than you think on fuel, and if you do it right it'll get a lot more heat into the water in a lot less time.

        Take what you want of the above. Scrap the rest.

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