Generac Generator + SolarEdge Inverter

[arf88]

Where are you putting this? Between your inverter and your main panel?

Would you turn it off manually when the power goes out?

No it would all be automatic, right now the solar breaker is in the master service panel. With the breakers removed and converting to this fused safety switch it will be wired to Line Side Tap on the grid side of the automatic transfer switch. So when shore power goes out the solar inverter shuts completely off, than the generator will power the master service panel and the whole house minus the inverter. When shore power comes back on the inverter is back online.

[macaddict]

Planning on using this instead of the existing non fused safety switch

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Siemens-30-Amp-Fusible-Metallic-Safety-Switch/1000036089

Where are you putting this? Between your inverter and your main panel?

Would you turn it off manually when the power goes out?

[arf88]

Here is another

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Siemens-30-Amp-Fusible-Metallic-Safety-Switch/1000036091

[arf88]

Thanks for catching that, explains the price difference, think im going to stick the outdoor HD double pole switch unless I find an outdoor one at lowes which is closer to me.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-30-Amp-240-Volt-Fusible-Outdoor-General-Duty-Safety-Switch-TG4321R/202978635

[Markyrocks69]

Planning on using this instead of the existing non fused safety switch

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Siemens-30-Amp-Fusible-Metallic-Safety-Switch/1000036089

Lol you know why that one is so cheap?....its for indoor use only

[arf88]

Planning on using this instead of the existing non fused safety switch

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Siemens-30-Amp-Fusible-Metallic-Safety-Switch/1000036089

[macaddict]

This guy is licensed, just not a solar expert, and the solar guys don't do generators.

I did get permission in writing from the solar company to allow the electrician to do what ever is needed and it won't void the warranty after i explained what we would do with the fused safety switch conversion.

Now just waiting for the generator to show up.

Have to thank you guys all for the feedback. As usual invaluable information from this forum and the experts on here.

So what did you decide on doing?

seems the options are
1- move the PV from a breaker to a line side tap with an extra breaker in line
2- create a critical load panel that the generator feeds and put the ats there.

[arf88]

This guy is licensed, just not a solar expert, and the solar guys don't do generators.

I did get permission in writing from the solar company to allow the electrician to do what ever is needed and it won't void the warranty after i explained what we would do with the fused safety switch conversion.

Now just waiting for the generator to show up.

Have to thank you guys all for the feedback. As usual invaluable information from this forum and the experts on here.

[malba2366]

As others have said line side taps before the automatic transfer switch (on the grid side). A bigger concern is that your "installer" doesn't seem to know how this all works. I would find a licensed electrician (who knows what he/she is doing) to install the standby generator.

[arf88]

That will definitely work. However how far away is the existing switch from the main panel? Bc as I said tap rules are tricky. If the switch is within 10 ft you're golden.

If it's over 10 feet but less than 25ft the wire between the tap point and the ocpd needs to be rated to handle at least 1/3 the amps as the service entrance cables to the house. So if the service entrance cable can handle 200 amps the wire would need to handle 66.66amps so that's like 4 gauge which I doubt is the size of the wire ran now.

If it's over 25 feet the disconnect/ocpd needs to be as close to the point of the tap as possible.

How about this one, it looks the same, wonder why such the price disparity?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Siemens-30-Amp-Fusible-Metallic-Safety-Switch/1000036089

Sorry forgot to respond to the distance question previously, the existing switch is about 1 ft from the main panel and 1 ft from the inverter, everything is in very close proximity. If I can just swap things and it works than I can use the conduit run from the existing switch to the main to the ATS and just route it through the existing and new ATS conduit instead unless that is against code.

The solar company gave me the green light to have the electrician do the work so they don't have to come out but I told them i want it in writing that this change does not affect the warranty so waiting on their email tomorrow for confirmation.

[Markyrocks69]

Thanks Chris, it has a handle for sure for the emergency disconnect. I can't recall off my head but I'm 90% sure it is not fused and just a bus bar. So i was thinking of something like this

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-30-Am...321R/202978635

That will definitely work. However how far away is the existing switch from the main panel? Bc as I said tap rules are tricky. If the switch is within 10 ft you're golden.

If it's over 10 feet but less than 25ft the wire between the tap point and the ocpd needs to be rated to handle at least 1/3 the amps as the service entrance cables to the house. So if the service entrance cable can handle 200 amps the wire would need to handle 66.66amps so that's like 4 gauge which I doubt is the size of the wire ran now.

If it's over 25 feet the disconnect/ocpd needs to be as close to the point of the tap as possible.

[arf88]

Two issues:
1 - positive disconnect outside. This is for the protection of first responders.
2 - overcurrent protection. This is to protect the equipment.

In my installation, the installer put in a small NEMA 3A rated box outside. Inside that box is a double pole 30A circuit breaker. This is in addition to the 30A breaker in the main panel. So in essence I have 2 circuit breakers in that one line.

If the outdoor disconnect on your system has a handle on the side, open it up and it will have either a pair of large buss fuses OR a plastic bar with a little handle on it. If it is the plastic bar (no fuses) then it does not have overcurrent protection other than the breaker in your main panel, in which case it would need to be swapped out. Some (most?) of this type disconnect can be retrofitted with a fuse block, which would solve that problem with relatively little cost.

If the outdoor disconnect does not have a handle on the side, again, open it up and you will find either a double pole circuit breaker or again the plastic bar with handle.

If you can post a picture with the cover open, we can probably tell you if that disconnect has overcurrent protection.

HTH,
Chris

Thanks Chris, it has a handle for sure for the emergency disconnect. I can't recall off my head but I'm 90% sure it is not fused and just a bus bar. So i was thinking of something like this

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-30-Amp-240-Volt-Fusible-Outdoor-General-Duty-Safety-Switch-TG4321R/202978635

[arf88]

You maybe able to use like an individual circuit fuse box (if such a thing exists) or a fused air conditioning disconnect (which is like 12-15$... ) inline with leaving the existing exterior disconnect alone. You will probably want to verify all this but the existing disconnect maybe too far away. Theres rules on how far a tap circuit can go b4 it needs a ocpd.

that being said as long as there is an exterior disconnect whatever you put inline shouldn't need to be accessible from the outside of the house.

I was dealing with similar issues. I had considered something like this.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-60-Amp-240-Volt-Fused-AC-Disconnect-TF60RCP/100134720

I had planned on a subpanel the entire time and it was basically installed already so I did end up using a tap to feed the subl and just putting pv breakers in there.

I was thinking something like this because of the space constraint it would be easiest to just rewire and swap out the old switch rather than adding more switching and more conduit.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-30-Amp-240-Volt-Fusible-Outdoor-General-Duty-Safety-Switch-TG4321R/202978635

[N4KIT]

Two issues:
1 - positive disconnect outside. This is for the protection of first responders.
2 - overcurrent protection. This is to protect the equipment.

In my installation, the installer put in a small NEMA 3A rated box outside. Inside that box is a double pole 30A circuit breaker. This is in addition to the 30A breaker in the main panel. So in essence I have 2 circuit breakers in that one line.

If the outdoor disconnect on your system has a handle on the side, open it up and it will have either a pair of large buss fuses OR a plastic bar with a little handle on it. If it is the plastic bar (no fuses) then it does not have overcurrent protection other than the breaker in your main panel, in which case it would need to be swapped out. Some (most?) of this type disconnect can be retrofitted with a fuse block, which would solve that problem with relatively little cost.

If the outdoor disconnect does not have a handle on the side, again, open it up and you will find either a double pole circuit breaker or again the plastic bar with handle.

If you can post a picture with the cover open, we can probably tell you if that disconnect has overcurrent protection.

HTH,
Chris

[Markyrocks69]

There is a disconnect there but I don't recall if it is fused. Likely not which is why they put the 30A breaker in. This means the disconnect would have to replaced or another sub panel added to add the 30A fuse back in. Joy

You maybe able to use like an individual circuit fuse box (if such a thing exists) or a fused air conditioning disconnect (which is like 12-15$... ) inline with leaving the existing exterior disconnect alone. You will probably want to verify all this but the existing disconnect maybe too far away. Theres rules on how far a tap circuit can go b4 it needs a ocpd.

that being said as long as there is an exterior disconnect whatever you put inline shouldn't need to be accessible from the outside of the house.

I was dealing with similar issues. I had considered something like this.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-60-Amp-240-Volt-Fused-AC-Disconnect-TF60RCP/100134720

I had planned on a subpanel the entire time and it was basically installed already so I did end up using a tap to feed the subl and just putting pv breakers in there.