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  • John_Dumke
    Member
    • Dec 2017
    • 48

    Self install 9.24 kw System - Success!

    When I build a computer or put a car motor back together, I am never quite sure if everything will work as intended. When it does I often times feel victorious. Such is the same with my solar panel system which was just tied into the grid by my electrician. The next day I booted the system up and low and behold, it works! I did all of the work by myself other than the wiring between the AC disconnect and the main panel. It was a lot of fun. Monday I will call for the final city inspection. I anticipate it to go smoothly and then will submit for PTO from SCE.

    My total cost for the materials and an electrician to tie in the final items was around $14,500. I sourced materials from Renvu and Alt-e. I live in SoCal and Renvu is in California but their prices were still very competitive. I used Alt-e because they had Hanwha 385w q cells and Renvu would only sell me a container of them. I only needed 24. I went with Renvu as my main supplier because of their website and their permitting package. The website put together a complete materials list for me, which helped me get an idea of all the components needed. Their permitting package also saved me from having to figure out exactly what the city of Long Beach would want and how to best present it.

    I pretty much started with this website (SolarPanelTalk) and reading a ton of material. Next was PVWatts calculator and reviewing my electric bill. I have a low pitched (10 degrees) South facing roof but could only get about a 7kw system on this portion of the home (18 panels). I kept on going back and forth with different layouts and sizes of panels to get more power on this one roof portion, but could not get enough power without using two additional East and West facing roof locations. The final design included two rows of 9 panels in portrait orientation on the South roof, 2 panels on the East and 4 panels on the West facing roofs, also mounted in portrait, for a total of 24 panels or 9.24kw. Enough to pretty much handle all of my electrical needs and maybe plus some.

    After reading all of the pros and cons of straight inverters vs Enphase vs SolarEdge, I decided to go with SolarEdge. I am using the new HD Wave 10,000 inverter with the p505 optimizers. Renvu sold me the 400-5 optimizers which on face value would appear to be ok as they are supposed to be able to handle up to 400 watts. Only after got my HD Wave in the mail and was able to create an account with SolarEdge and use their web based designer did I have a problem matching the Hanwha panels to the p400-5 optimizers. SolarEdge's website basically was saying that the Hanwha panels would only be compatible with the P505 optimizers. I called SolarEdge's west coast sales rep and he confirmed that if the website designer limits me to that choice, it is for a reason and SolarEdge engineering limited that option. Renvu also confirmed their error and paid for return of the incorrect optimizers and only charged me the difference for the upgraded optimizers. I chose IronRidge racking. Having a metal roof, I had to determine my own attachment method. 5S roof clamps were my solution. These clamps attach to the standing seam which is every 17 inches on my roof, using basically a set screw, so there is no roof penetration.

    For the Renvu permitting package I debated just getting the line item electrical work for $200, or the complete package for $500. Just the basic electrical package would have been fine as I had done all of the physical layouts myself. But I choose to go with the complete package as I wasn't sure what the city building department would want in a set of plans and /or how to present the information. I didn't want to go back and forth with the city. Having Renvu provide me with a complete set of plans did smooth the process. My plans made it through plan check with essentially no changes. The City of Long Beach provides express permitting for solar systems. If your system qualifies, then all of the plan check can be done right over the counter. My system did not qualify for two reasons. One, my 200amp panel is centerfeed. Don't know why this creates an exception but it did. And I have a metal roof, so attachment methods aren't standard. So I had to pay for plan check and wait 4 weeks. While at the city, they did buy off the physical portion of the plans, so my four week wait would only involve electrical changes if any. So I decided to go ahead and order all of my materials and start with the installation.

    By the time I got my permit, 4 weeks later, a good portion of the work was done. The city allows for only one inspection to get a final, but I didn't want to risk the inspector not liking something with the install, so I had the inspector out mid way. With all of the racking in place, the optimizers installed, all of the wiring in place and a paper cut out of the invertor and AC disconnect taped on the wall in the intended location. Mostly it went well. As a side note, I am kind of shocked that inspectors don't really care about anything other than "is the system grounded and will it not kill somebody". If the system does't work, is improperly designed or shoddy in any other manner is of no concern. The system just needs to not kill somebody. The end result of this first inspection was everything was ok other than some grounding on the the emt conduit and labels needed to be plastic placards. So I forged on with mounting the solar panels and the final wiring install.

    My guesstimate is my system if professionally installed would run around 30k, so I am saving 15k. People have asked me how much time has it taken. To which I respond that it really isn't profitable as I am very inefficient as this is my first time. My best guess is that for every hour a professional would spend during an installation, I will spend 5 hours. And for every hour of installation time I have probably spent 20 hours of research. But it has been fun, I have learned a lot, and I have the satisfaction of knowing it has been done right!

    IMG_0715.jpgIMG_0717.jpgIMG_0723.jpg
    Last edited by John_Dumke; 11-17-2018, 02:08 PM.
  • sdold
    Moderator
    • Jun 2014
    • 1424

    #2
    Congrats, John, it's a good feeling when you finished a project like that and know you've done it right. Did Long Beach waive the requirement for load calculations or an engineer's stamp if the array was under a certain weight per square foot? Those load calcs were the biggest headache for me, but I got through them. I used Renvu for my parts about four years ago and was happy with them, especially when I needed to return a few things and exchange some others.

    Comment

    • John_Dumke
      Member
      • Dec 2017
      • 48

      #3
      Originally posted by sdold
      Did Long Beach waive the requirement for load calculations or an engineer's stamp if the array was under a certain weight per square foot?
      Fortunately the City of LB did not require roof weight calcs. The home was built in 2003, new by myself. The roof type was engineered truss system which did not require the load calcs. This was certainly one of my concerns when submitting the plans. I had made a mental note of how much the system weighed and was prepared to state my case. Looking something like... "Jeeze, the home was just built with a truss roof system. Homes are designed for a minimum dead weight of 40lbs per sqft, and my rough calculations only have the panels at 2.5lbs per sqft well under the 4lbs limit where calcs are required". I have no idea exactly how accurate that previous statement is, other than the 2.5lbs for the panels, but it sure does sound like I know what I am talking about. It is research like this that makes the solar install a lot of work, trying to anticipate what problems the city might throw your way.
      Last edited by John_Dumke; 11-17-2018, 06:56 PM.

      Comment

      • J.P.M.
        Solar Fanatic
        • Aug 2013
        • 14925

        #4
        Originally posted by John_Dumke

        Fortunately the City of LB did not require roof weight calcs. The home was built in 2003, new by myself. The roof type was engineered truss system which did not require the load calcs. This was certainly one of my concerns when submitting the plans. I had made a mental note of how much the system weighed and was prepared to state my case. Looking something like... "Jeeze, the home was just built with a truss roof system. Homes are designed for a minimum dead weight of 40lbs per sqft, and my rough calculations only have the panels at 2.5lbs per sqft well under the 4lbs limit where calcs are required". I have no idea exactly how accurate that previous statement is, other than the 2.5lbs for the panels, but it sure does sound like I know what I am talking about. It is research like this that makes the solar install a lot of work, trying to anticipate what problems the city might throw your way.
        It's not usually the dead weight of an array that's the concern. A few lbf/ft^2 from an array is pretty much peanuts.

        It's the wind loadings which can be uplift or downward and cyclic that are usually not considered in the original construction and are usually the main reason for the calcing of the loads. as they can be much larger than any array dead load.

        It's been my experience in SO. CA that most buildings AHJ's either don't care about or don't know what to do with wind and other occasional load conditions.

        Comment

        • stallhorn
          Junior Member
          • Nov 2015
          • 19

          #5
          Excellent! Working on this myself, except it will go on a solar carport (tried to do it 3 years ago, didn't have the time). I am going to use the same panels, inverter, and optimizers as you (Hanwha 385s, Solaredge 10000HD, and p505) except mine is going to be 12kw with 33 panels. I think I will be doing 3 strings with 11 panels per string. I have a bunch of questions though:

          - The DC voltage for the 11 panels will come to ~ 531 (40.21x11) per string. The DC input voltage for Solaredge inverter is 480 max volts per the specs, so 11 strings might not work; but the solaredge designer tool didn't flag it.

          - The 3 strings will come to 48.15 amps (30.87x1.56), for which I can use a 50 amp breaker. 4 strings would come to over 60 amps, which I can't do easily.

          - Some of the wiring has to go underground, but would like to use PV wire if possible. Nothing says I can't use it, but everything says USE-2 is recommended. It is not very clear to me if I need to use a conduit for PV wire or not either. A direct bury would be great if I can do it. It has to go about 30 feet.

          - Do you mind sharing some of your drawings? I am in Maryland, so I probably have to jump through more hoops (with the snow and such), but would be helpful to see what you did. I plan on doing most of the work myself to keep the ROI timeframe reasonable (~10 years).

          Here is the initial design that SolarEdge spit out.

          string_na.pdf Carport_na.pdf

          Thanks

          Shawn
          Attached Files
          Last edited by stallhorn; 12-17-2018, 01:34 PM.

          Comment

          • jflorey2
            Solar Fanatic
            • Aug 2015
            • 2331

            #6
            Originally posted by John_Dumke
            As a side note, I am kind of shocked that inspectors don't really care about anything other than "is the system grounded and will it not kill somebody". If the system does't work, is improperly designed or shoddy in any other manner is of no concern. The system just needs to not kill somebody.
            That seems pretty reasonable to me.

            If you have a system that could kill a passerby, utility worker or electrician working on the system? Not OK, and the system isn't approved - because inspectors have a duty to protect the public from your mistakes.

            If you have a system that you installed that doesn't work? No one's fault other than your own. You are free to suffer the results of your _own_ mistakes as long as they don't harm other people.

            Comment

            • John_Dumke
              Member
              • Dec 2017
              • 48

              #7
              Originally posted by stallhorn
              Excellent! Working on this myself, except it will go on a solar carport (tried to do it 3 years ago, didn't have the time). I am going to use the same panels, inverter, and optimizers as you (Hanwha 385s, Solaredge 10000HD, and p505) except mine is going to be 12kw with 33 panels. I think I will be doing 3 strings with 11 panels per string. I have a bunch of questions though:

              - The DC voltage for the 11 panels will come to ~ 531 (40.21x11) per string. The DC input voltage for Solaredge inverter is 480 max volts per the specs, so 11 strings might not work; but the solaredge designer tool didn't flag it.

              - The 3 strings will come to 48.15 amps (30.87x1.56), for which I can use a 50 amp breaker. 4 strings would come to over 60 amps, which I can't do easily.

              - Some of the wiring has to go underground, but would like to use PV wire if possible. Nothing says I can't use it, but everything says USE-2 is recommended. It is not very clear to me if I need to use a conduit for PV wire or not either. A direct bury would be great if I can do it. It has to go about 30 feet.

              - Do you mind sharing some of your drawings? I am in Maryland, so I probably have to jump through more hoops (with the snow and such), but would be helpful to see what you did. I plan on doing most of the work myself to keep the ROI timeframe reasonable (~10 years).

              Here is the initial design that SolarEdge spit out.

              string_na.pdf Carport_na.pdf

              Thanks

              Shawn
              Shawn,

              While my system is a 9.24 kw system in theory (385 watts x 24 panels), 18 panels are at 10 degrees south facing and 6 panels are at 20 degrees east or west facing. This produces a real world max system of only 8.56 kw. This the difference between STC (9.24 kw ) and PTC (8.56 kw) rating. While the limit of Watts per string on the SolarEdge is 5,250, I would suspect that this limit is based upon the Real World production of the panels and not the Theoretical. This is maybe why the SolarEdge designer didn't flag the number of panels on the string. My system has 2 strings of 12 panels for a theoretical max of 4,620 watts per string. So I could add at least one more panel for 5,005 (and still be under the 5,250 watt limit per string), but in reality I could probably add two more panels per string (max theoretical 5,390 watts), because they are not all at an optimum orientation and will never produce more than the 5,250 watts per string limit.

              Does your design allow for 3' fire setbacks? Figure out what fire setback are required for your area. Maybe even bringing a sketch to the city building dept would be a good start.

              While I am not an electrician, I would suspect the gray pvc underground with THHN wire would be the correct way to go. I would want the ability to re-snake wire through conduit if necessary. And I don't think you would want solar wiring within conduit. The insulation is very think. There is a thing called the conduit fill table which tells you how much wire you can run in a given size of conduit.

              I did pay Renvu for there permitting package. Design wise they didn't have to do much as they just used my design. But they did do the electrical calculations and put together a very nice package which made me look professional and feel confident with regards to pulling permits. The cost was $500 for the complete permitting package or only $200 for the electrical line diagram. I went with the full package. If it only saved me one trip back to the city for extra paperwork that I didn't get them the first time, then it was worth it. Plus it kept my project moving forward, keeping me from getting bogged down.

              You are welcome to any document you would like to see. My ROI should be only about 3 years when including the Federal 30% tax credit.

              John
              Last edited by John_Dumke; 12-17-2018, 05:31 PM.

              Comment

              • stallhorn
                Junior Member
                • Nov 2015
                • 19

                #8
                This gives me a lot of confidence with the strings.

                I am putting it on a carport with a 10 degree tilt facing south, but I don't think I will be generating anything close to the theoretical limit - as you indicated. The carport is 8'6" front and 12'1" on the back side, so I don't think there is a requirement for fire setback - but something to double-check.

                Good advice on the grey PVC. I will bag the PV wire, but still need to research USE-2 vs THHN.

                Would love to see everything you did to get it through the city permitting. My county requires line drawing - which I can do. But it would be nice to see a template.


                I am trying to get the ROI to about 10 years

                Thanks.

                Comment

                • John_Dumke
                  Member
                  • Dec 2017
                  • 48

                  #9
                  Originally posted by stallhorn
                  This gives me a lot of confidence with the strings.

                  I am putting it on a carport with a 10 degree tilt facing south, but I don't think I will be generating anything close to the theoretical limit - as you indicated. The carport is 8'6" front and 12'1" on the back side, so I don't think there is a requirement for fire setback - but something to double-check.

                  Good advice on the grey PVC. I will bag the PV wire, but still need to research USE-2 vs THHN.

                  Would love to see everything you did to get it through the city permitting. My county requires line drawing - which I can do. But it would be nice to see a template.


                  I am trying to get the ROI to about 10 years

                  Thanks.
                  Shawn,

                  Attached are the first 5 pages of the my plans, also the most relevant pages. Page 6 is warning labels and the balance are supplemental sheets on the products used. Panel, inverter, hardware etc. Have fun!

                  John

                  Attached Files

                  Comment

                  • stallhorn
                    Junior Member
                    • Nov 2015
                    • 19

                    #10
                    John,

                    Thank you so much! I can see it is going to be a lot of fun

                    It looks like you ran both DC lines into the junction box and then to the inverter - through the same conduit. It doesn't look like you have a breaker in the junction box. I take it the rapid shutdown module on the inverter is enough?

                    Also you're right on the THHN wire, I might even be able to use THWN-2 (supposedly cheaper). I can run three pairs through a 3/4" without issues.

                    As far as conduits, is EMT better than PVC due to its grounding properties? It looks like you ran an extra THHN wire through the PVC conduit for grounding...

                    A lot of detail in those drawings and excellent to see. Gives me an idea of what needs to happen.

                    Thanks again.

                    Shawn.

                    Comment

                    • John_Dumke
                      Member
                      • Dec 2017
                      • 48

                      #11
                      Originally posted by stallhorn
                      It looks like you ran both DC lines into the junction box and then to the inverter - through the same conduit. It doesn't look like you have a breaker in the junction box. I take it the rapid shutdown module on the inverter is enough?
                      Solar wire is rated for UV exterior locations so technically I could have left the wires exposed on the roof, But I chose to run the Solarwire through 3/4 EMT conduit when going between arrays. It was more for tidyness. I terminated the 3/4 conduit once I was under the panel and then ran the solar along side the aluminum IronRidge mounting rails. When the solarwire / grounds went in or out of conduit or junction boxes they went though a water proof fitting.

                      From the roof top junction box comes 2 red ( Positive ), 2 black (Negative) and one ground wire (Green). The plans called for #8 from the roof top junction box but I ran #6. I believe you just can fit 3 pairs of #8 and a ground in 3/4 conduit. But If I were you I would run at least 1" conduit underground if I were to have 3 pairs and a ground.

                      Google conduit fill table to see what the limits of what you can put in conduit..

                      Originally posted by stallhorn
                      As far as conduits, is EMT better than PVC due to its grounding properties? It looks like you ran an extra THHN wire through the PVC conduit for grounding...
                      EMT is very thin wall. I can only imagine that EMT would rot out within 5-10 years if underground. I am not an electrician, but I would imagine that Gray PVC is the way to go for underground installations.


                      l AC Shutoff.jpg


                      The order of things is a little misleading from my first post, as I had not yet installed the DC shutoff. Above is a more complete picture. I put the inverter on the East wall for several reasons, the most important being that the east wall will be cooler. The main panel is on the south facing wall and will get more more direct sunlight..

                      So the order of things is .... Solar wiring 1 pos and 1 neg from each string into a junction box along with a ground wire. I used solid #6 copper. Route this into the junction box through a water tight fitting. Ouf of the roof top junction box will come THHN stranded wire of sufficient guage (#8 was spec'd for me but I used #6). This along with a ground (#6 stranded) will run to the inverter's integrated DC shut off. Then #6 THHN wire goes from the invertor to the AC Shutoff. #6 THHN. One Red, one Black, one White and one Green. Then from the AC shutoff into a 60 amp breaker.

                      My panel was a centerfeed 200 amp service and was downgraded to 175 amps to allow for the incoming solar.

                      In the picture above the AC shutoff is fed into the bottom of the main panel through the bottom. That is the hold you see in the wall below the panel. I installed everything except for the wiring between the AC shutoff and the main panel.

                      When wiring the panels together I used the "Skip Wiring" method that I found about through this forum. This worked well with the P505 optomizers when panels were mounted in portrait mode.
                      Attached Files
                      Last edited by John_Dumke; 12-17-2018, 11:17 PM.

                      Comment

                      • Guest

                        #12
                        Hi John, did the inspector require you to install a meter cabinet for the solar power generation? Basically here in my place, the usual setup for On-grid PV systems below 10kWp capacity would be:
                        Solar panels > DC Cables > Inverter > Meter Cabinet (with isolator and a space for the electricity meter) > Main Distribution Board, then the main meter will be replaced by a new bidirectional meter if it's an old type.

                        Nice and very interesting post, by the way!

                        Comment

                        • ButchDeal
                          Solar Fanatic
                          • Apr 2014
                          • 3802

                          #13
                          Originally posted by sunriddler
                          Hi John, did the inspector require you to install a meter cabinet for the solar power generation? Basically here in my place, the usual setup for On-grid PV systems below 10kWp capacity would be:
                          Solar panels > DC Cables > Inverter > Meter Cabinet (with isolator and a space for the electricity meter) > Main Distribution Board, then the main meter will be replaced by a new bidirectional meter if it's an old type.

                          Nice and very interesting post, by the way!
                          This revenue grade meter for production monitoring is generally done in the north East where SRECs are a thing.
                          Now that many of the inverter manufacturers have optional built in RGM (Revenue grade Meters) the external meter can be skipped in most places for the more integrated one.
                          OutBack FP1 w/ CS6P-250P http://bit.ly/1Sg5VNH

                          Comment

                          • John_Dumke
                            Member
                            • Dec 2017
                            • 48

                            #14
                            Originally posted by ButchDeal

                            This revenue grade meter for production monitoring is generally done in the north East where SRECs are a thing.
                            Now that many of the inverter manufacturers have optional built in RGM (Revenue grade Meters) the external meter can be skipped in most places for the more integrated one.
                            There was no requirement for a RGM. I am pretty sure that the SolarEdge 1000HD inverter can be ordered with a RGM incorporated into the inverter.

                            Comment

                            • stallhorn
                              Junior Member
                              • Nov 2015
                              • 19

                              #15
                              Thanks for the pic, makes things clearer.

                              The skip wiring is interesting... definitely going to be using that.

                              OK on the conduit too.. 1" and PVC.

                              Now I gotta figure out where to put the inverter. Inside the garage is better for me - more space next to the breaker panel. Not sure if it is allowed by the county.

                              The biggest issue is getting a permit for the solar carport I am getting from powerssolarframes. No room to build it in the backyard, so it has to go next to the house - About 13 feet encroachment. So I am told I need to apply for variance, and that takes 3 months to get a hearing! Gotta love Montgomery County.. sigh..

                              Comment

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