Why are you breaking up the branches? I'm not following the logic that reduces voltage drop. To combine the multiple branches, you can use Midnite Solar's MNPV6-DISCO AC MICRO combiner box to combine up to 3 branches. This will work for you if you just have the 2 branches of 12 and 13. Then exit the combiner box in conduit.
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Originally posted by Amy@altE View PostWhy are you breaking up the branches? I'm not following the logic that reduces voltage drop. To combine the multiple branches, you can use Midnite Solar's MNPV6-DISCO AC MICRO combiner box to combine up to 3 branches. This will work for you if you just have the 2 branches of 12 and 13. Then exit the combiner box in conduit.
Voltage drop and losses increases exponentially as you get more inverters in a string. That's lots of energy over the lifetime of the system going to waste.
I really want to avoid having extra enclosures/panels in my setup. It's extra time/money/losses that I dont believe is needed. I like solar panels-->inverters-->wire transition-->breaker-->disconnect-->main
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Originally posted by Nut&Volts View PostThat's lots of energy over the lifetime of the system going to waste.
I looked at M190's 13 vs. 6+7.
Doing the math I come up with 0.3% less energy (and that's being very pessimistic - ex. assuming that you're at maximum power output all the time you're producing)
So if it's "free" to set it up with a center-tap setup instead of a long enphase cable connected at one end then why not get those very minor gains.
But if it costs more than 0.25% of the system cost then I think it's no longer worthwhile.
If I were looking at it, I'd probably put the decision line even lower - at 0.15% extra cost.
0.15% (or 0.3% or whatever you decide on) doesn't cover a lot - things I think you might have as extra expense:
Extra wire to get to the midpoint.
Extra conduit.
2x the enphase-cable terminations.
I think the main point of that pdf is that you want to avoid too long of strings because the last one on the string could wind up in over-voltage state and shutdown.
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I center strung my Enphase setup not due to energy loss issues but simply I was doing everything I could to stay under that 2% guidance for total losses from wire resistance to ensure the micros could track the grid as best as possible - and I was getting right up to the limit on my strings furthest away from the combiner sub panel.
For me It meant the following changes:
Upgrading from normal size 2 gauge box to oversized 2 gauge box to meet fill calcs due to oversized downstream wire.
Extra Enphase end terminator per string
Extra Arlington LPCG747 strain relief.
Ran about $20 per string. No change to EMT I was running, no change to wire connectors I was using. For me - worth it since I stayed under that 2%. For someone else - can't say.Comment
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Originally posted by foo1bar View PostIs it really?
I looked at M190's 13 vs. 6+7.
Doing the math I come up with 0.3% less energy (and that's being very pessimistic - ex. assuming that you're at maximum power output all the time you're producing).....
Im still curious if anyone has answers to my main questions. Can PV wire be run inside EMT conduit on the roof and into a attic junction box? Is there any type of wire/cable that is allowed on the roof in conduit and inside in the attic and walls?Last edited by Nut&Volts; 04-21-2017, 04:18 PM.Comment
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Originally posted by Nut&Volts View PostIs there any type of wire/cable that is allowed on the roof in conduit and inside in the attic and walls?
If you have a box on the roof you could transition to thhn/thwn2 there.
If there isn't an easy way to do that, I would guess that a foot or two of PV wire inside conduit into a junction box in the attic could still pass. (ie. just enough to get to a spot where you can transition)
I think that'd mostly be up to the inspector though.Comment
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Originally posted by Nut&Volts View PostIm still curious if anyone has answers to my main questions. Can PV wire be run inside EMT conduit on the roof and into a attic junction box? Is there any type of wire/cable that is allowed on the roof in conduit and inside in the attic and walls?CS6P-260P/SE3000 - http://tiny.cc/ed5ozxComment
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Thank you guys for the answers! Very helpful information and lets me know I'm headed in the right direction.
I did discover that the AC side of the M190 Enphase cable is not PV cable. It is TC-ER which is exposed run tray cable. Researching now to understand the limitations of this cable.
So the simplest plan right now is to run THHN/THWN-2 cable from my subpanel (through wall and then conduit) all the way to a junction box at the array. If I do anything different it will be best for me to ask my inspection.Comment
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Hello everybody,
I support all the ways to use solar energy like Nut&Volts. I've made a DIY electric system on my old (but sweet!) camping car, recycling 2 solar panels from my neighbour's house. They are usual home panels, like this :
dd2649957847232ac33cb5df149acb32631fed08.jpg
(image source : lebonelectricien.pro)
With a few skills, you can create your own electric system. A simple layout looks like this one :
6f3914be1db11f3f655865a4dbcf52ca.jpg
Just make sure to use a MPPT controller if you don't want bad surprises...
Hope it will interest you.
++ AlanComment
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To Alan23
Nice little project with that van. Unfortunately with only 2 x 140watt panels you will only get (at best a couple of hours) 23amp out of them which is no where near enough for a 400Ah battery system.
Now if you used 2 x 6v 230Ah batteries then you have a balanced solar / battery system with 280watts of panels and an MPPT CC.Comment
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Originally posted by Alan23 View PostHello everybody,
...
Hope it will interest you.
But it's generally considered rude to hijack a thread and post an unrelated topic.
Especially since your post isn't related to the section this thread is in - "Solar panels for your home".
There is an "Introduce yourself" section - https://www.solarpaneltalk.com/forum...ourselves-here
And a section for off-grid: https://www.solarpaneltalk.com/forum...-panel-systems
Both would be better spots.Comment
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