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  • reader2580
    Solar Fanatic
    • Jan 2017
    • 281

    #16
    What is stopping me from using a meter-main panel inside is it simply wouldn't fit. It also appears to cost more than a main lug panel and buying a main breaker separately.

    Comment

    • tyab
      Solar Fanatic
      • Sep 2016
      • 227

      #17
      (assuming your under 2014 code)

      So for a 34.2 amp out, X 1.25 gives 42.75 so you round up to a 50 amp OCPD.

      Upgrading that garage sub from 60 is required and to a 125 is the best solution. You keep the 60amp OCPD in the main for it, just means you can't pull more than 60 in your garage which is what you have currently. The feeder wire is already sized for that 60. You will be back feeding 50 (ya I know its only 34.2 but you are under 2014 code) into your 200 amp main, so you have correctly computed that you need to down rate that main OCPD to 175. If you are under 2011 code you will have to replace that feeder to the sub with larger wire but under 2014 code you don't.

      If I was doing this I would just downrate that main to 175. Ya those breakers are expensive but replacing a main panel is a lot of work. Don't forget that your AHJ is got you on his radar now (from your other thread) so might want to follow K.I.S.S.

      Comment

      • bcroe
        Solar Fanatic
        • Jan 2012
        • 5198

        #18
        Remember, the inverter feed breaker should be at the opposite end of the box busbar, from the AC line
        feed. That reg prevents currents from both sources ever adding together at any point on the busbar. If
        the garage feed then heads over to your main box, its breaker again should be at the opposite end. So
        then there is no way the busbars or wiring can over current. Additional regs may limit the sum of all
        power source breakers to 120% of the original house box, this gives you belt and suspenders protection
        in that box. Bruce Roe

        Comment

        • reader2580
          Solar Fanatic
          • Jan 2017
          • 281

          #19
          Originally posted by tyab
          If I was doing this I would just downrate that main to 175. Ya those breakers are expensive but replacing a main panel is a lot of work. Don't forget that your AHJ is got you on his radar now (from your other thread) so might want to follow K.I.S.S.
          Minnesota is under 2014 code and will go to 2017 code on July 1st.

          Cost is not an issue for replacing the main breaker as it only costs $84. It looks to me like replacing the main breaker in the main load center will be almost as hard as replacing the entire load center. There is no way to pull the main wires out of the main breaker because they are so stiff. I think I'll have to disconnect everything from the panelboard and unscrew the panelboard so I can pull the panelboard down to release the wires from main breaker.

          The garage will need to be brought up to 2014 code when I replace the load center there. There is only a three wire feed from house to garage and I need to replace the feed with a four wire one. I am probably going to have to move the load center in the garage to a new location because a concrete slab blocks running wire to the current location. Running new cable to the garage will probably be the hardest part of the whole solar project.

          Comment

          • jflorey2
            Solar Fanatic
            • Aug 2015
            • 2331

            #20
            Originally posted by reader2580
            I think it would actually be easier to replace the panel than to do a supply side tap, but I could be totally wrong.
            You can get a 60 amp meter adapter that allows you to feed up to 60 amps directly to the meter; the panel is then unaffected. Search for "renewable meter adapter" to see some example.

            Comment

            • Charlied
              Junior Member
              • Mar 2019
              • 1

              #21
              Hello,

              I was originally planning to do the 120% rule (705.12(D)(2)(3)(b)) and bring the PV supply into the main panel. Due to the fact it will be difficult to run the line into that panel, I am considering alternative options using sub panels. Here is my layout/configuration.

              100A Main Breaker outside by meter
              To
              125A Main Service Panel inside
              To
              50A Breaker in middle of Main service panel
              To
              100A Subpanel

              The sub panel has breaker's that go across horizontally, and the line feeder comes in on both sides of the panel. So there is no real way to have the PV supply come in on the opposite end of the subpanel. Although according to 705.12(D)(2)(3), I don't think I would need to worry about having the PV supply be on the opposite side of the line feeder for that subpanel. Because the 50A breaker supplying the subpanel and the 40A breaker from the inverter add up to 90A, which is less than that 100A rating of the bus bar of the subpanel.

              So far so good, my main concern is the connection location of the 50A breaker supplying the subpanel that I'm going to connect the PV supply into. That 50A breaker in the main panel that is supplying the power to the sub panel is located in the middle of the main panel. Because the subpanel will backfeed into the main panel, I assume I will have to apply the rules to the main panel too. If I have to apply the rules to the main panel, I have to follow the 120% rule unless I upgrade that panel. When following the 120% rule, I would assume I would need to move that 50A subpanel breaker down to the bottom to protect from arcing. I'm not sure I have enough wire to move that 50A breaker to the bottom of the main panel.

              What are your thoughts? Would I need to move that 50A breaker on the main panel down to the bottom in order to pass inspection?

              Thanks,
              Chris

              Comment

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