Yet Another SD Install 4.5Kw LG 300's SE 5000 in La Costa CA

[JBinCBad]

Thanks, thats good advice.

[thejq]

Apparently my squeaky wheel is getting some oil, I sent an email Thursday re at least getting the permit application done, and today they sent me an email saying they're coming tomorrow to install. Fingers crossed for a clean install. . . .

Any suggestions for what I should be concerned about, or request? I know conduit lines can be a problem, but hopefully they'll run them inconspicuously. . . .

Good to hear that you're making progress. 1.5 month of wait sounds about average. I'd insist on painting and color matching all exterior conduits, going up to the roof and making sure all broken tiles are replaced, verifying the make and model of all the components, etc. Good luck!

[JBinCBad]

Apparently my squeaky wheel is getting some oil, I sent an email Thursday re at least getting the permit application done, and today they sent me an email saying they're coming tomorrow to install. Fingers crossed for a clean install. . . .

Any suggestions for what I should be concerned about, or request? I know conduit lines can be a problem, but hopefully they'll run them inconspicuously. . . .

[JBinCBad]

So latest update: After a few emails and two-three weeks without a response, finally got a call from the sales guy (not the project coordinator), telling me their "hard drives and servers crashed", so they are starting from scratch and weeks behind. They are still within their contract period, so I have no legal b*tch, but sucks that I didn't press for a clear timeline. basically no action on my job in 5 weeks. Still hoping that when its done, its done right, but not the most auspicious beginning.

[J.P.M.]

Congrats, looking good, will be nice to see your production #'s. I signed my contract over 5 weeks ago, and other than standoffs, have no action or communication (initiated b) my installer. I feel like I have to be the nagging client to get anything done on the job. Not a good way to do business, imho. The "project coordinator" is reluctant to provide any kind of timeline or schedule, so someone looking for a good contract, I'd recommend they lay this information out and incorporate it into the contract.

I thought I was being reasonable and cooperative with a 3 mo. date, and expected it to be done in a week or two, due to the simplicity of my install. Clearly that was an error on my part.

Since many have asked for my installer info, I feel obligated to keep you updated on my progress (or lack thereof). I was not initially concerned with the timing of the install, but since "winter is coming", I'm a bit miffed at myself and the installer for not setting a clear timeline.

Something to perhaps think about for future solar users: One thing I put in my R.F.P. and insisted it became part of any contract I signed was a firm commissioning date - that is, the system generated power on test and be "ready to operate", just waiting for inspection/signoff by the AHJ. That clause got teeth in it from another clause that stipulated if they missed the date, they would pick up my electric bill until it was ready, and get a bonus of 1/365 of my prior year's bill per day they beat the startup date.

My contractor beat the date by 1 day.

[JBinCBad]

Congrats, looking good, will be nice to see your production #'s. I signed my contract over 5 weeks ago, and other than standoffs, have no action or communication (initiated b) my installer. I feel like I have to be the nagging client to get anything done on the job. Not a good way to do business, imho. The "project coordinator" is reluctant to provide any kind of timeline or schedule, so someone looking for a good contract, I'd recommend they lay this information out and incorporate it into the contract.

I thought I was being reasonable and cooperative with a 3 mo. date, and expected it to be done in a week or two, due to the simplicity of my install. Clearly that was an error on my part.

Since many have asked for my installer info, I feel obligated to keep you updated on my progress (or lack thereof). I was not initially concerned with the timing of the install, but since "winter is coming", I'm a bit miffed at myself and the installer for not setting a clear timeline.

[hcubed]

Pictures before and after ?

Here are a couple of pictures of before and after. The background is that I have four roof surfaces that have panels on them. This was done to get them all south facing. Two of the arrays are on first story roofs and the other are on the second story. I discussed how I thought things should be routed with my installer and I thought we were on the same page. The guy who did the work appeared to work off a different page. The issue was that he looped carflex over my fascias. As my wife said, it looked like an octopus.

My installer was great and said he would take care of it. He came out this week with another one of his guys who had been around in the very early stages when my roof was completely torn off. Between the two of them, they re-routed things so that I had only one spot where the carflex comes over the fascia and it was done as flush as possible. They did a great job painting all of the conduit and things just blend it to the surfaces they pass over. It was a great balance of aesthetics and function.

[Carl_NH]

Things are back on track and looking good. My installer was out today re-doing the cable runs and it looks so much better. I have a unique install in that I have 4 roof surfaces (2 second story, 2 first story) that have panels. They were all chosen as they all face directly south. They should be done today and do a bit of painting on the conduit that is readily visible. Should be ready for inspection tomorrow of Thursday.

Pictures before and after ?

[hcubed]

Wouldn't you know, after I posted that last reply things started to go wonky. Let's just say that I am working with my installer to ensure that the cabling is aesthetically pleasing (as much as possible). They are using Carflex and looping it over my fascia just doesn't work. I need them to follow the contours of the fascia with rigid conduit.

If anyone has some pics of good looking conduit coming over the fascia, I would appreciate it.

Things are back on track and looking good. My installer was out today re-doing the cable runs and it looks so much better. I have a unique install in that I have 4 roof surfaces (2 second story, 2 first story) that have panels. They were all chosen as they all face directly south. They should be done today and do a bit of painting on the conduit that is readily visible. Should be ready for inspection tomorrow of Thursday.

[J.P.M.]

And stainless ties can have sharp edges and risk cutting into the insulation. I would personally choose uv rated ties every time, and use enough of them that a few can break without a problem.

FWIW: About 7-8 years ago I bought some plastic coated st. stl. "wire" - looks like about 16 ga or so and quite stiff - got it at big box for use in gardening - for holding up fruit tree branches, etc., and general use around the house. I sort of forgot about the branch support, but just checked it after reading this thread. Still going strong after 6 + yrs. in the elements w/ the plastic coating still intact/unbroken but turned mostly brown/black from weathering/UV/whatever. Something such as that may be fit for wire dressing purposes and address the concerns expressed. I forgit the price but it came in 100 ft. coils.

[SunEagle]

And stainless ties can have sharp edges and risk cutting into the insulation. I would personally choose uv rated ties every time, and use enough of them that a few can break without a problem.

That would be a good solution. SS metal doesn't corrode but it is sharp and can cut.

[sensij]

IMO if those PV rated wires are zip tied to the frames and off the roof surface, then it should be a good installation.

The only point I would make is that those zip ties be made out of stainless steel because plastic will probably fail over a period of the panel life.

And stainless ties can have sharp edges and risk cutting into the insulation. I would personally choose uv rated ties every time, and use enough of them that a few can break without a problem.

[SunEagle]

It is not practical to run conduit to each and every panel. There will be bare wires on your roof, although there are different techniques to arrange them, and the point at which they go into a junction box and convert to conduit is usually determined by the installer. The bare copper ground is also standard.

You can see in my installation the junction box was mounted to the end of the rail, but there were loose wires underneath that were zip tied to the rails.

IMO if those PV rated wires are zip tied to the frames and off the roof surface, then it should be a good installation.

The only point I would make is that those zip ties be made out of stainless steel because plastic will probably fail over a period of the panel life.

[sensij]

I would not expect to see any bare wiring on my roof, whether the wires are insulated or not. Conduit color-matched to tile if in an exposed area at a minimum.

It is not practical to run conduit to each and every panel. There will be bare wires on your roof, although there are different techniques to arrange them, and the point at which they go into a junction box and convert to conduit is usually determined by the installer. The bare copper ground is also standard.

You can see in my installation the junction box was mounted to the end of the rail, but there were loose wires underneath that were zip tied to the rails.

splice.jpgpenetration.jpg

[hcubed]

That combiner box is interesting especially with the bare wires. My big thing now is working with my installer to run conduit in an aesthetically pleasing way (match the contour of the house at whatever point) versus just going the easy path.