X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • sensij
    replied
    Originally posted by Dan Z
    To summarize in detail (using strings of 8 and 12)
    1) run the two Enphase trunk cables into a weatherproof junction box on the roof and connect them them to two 12/2 with ground AWG (also connect the earth ground running to the panel bonding circuit).
    2) run solid conduit out of the junction box and through a sealed roof penetration
    3) run two 12 AWG through my attic with flex conduit
    4) run the wires through the side wall of the attic and into solid conduit and down the exterior of the house
    5) run the wires into the main box using a 15 A and a 10 A

    I still want to add a 4 ton AC unit. Is this a problem. Currently, I have 5 open slots (3 above the main and 2 below). I guess two at the top will be used by the PV. I think I may be ok if I do the engineered load calculation because I have no big loads (gas dryer, gas stove, no pool). Do I need to hire someone to do this calculation? I have tried a spreadsheet on the internet, but the terminology is set up for pros and I couldn't figure out my load.
    Your summary looks correct. Keep in mind when running the flex in the attic that clearances need to be maintained with the roof, and the flex needs to be properly supported, maybe labeled if it is considered accessible.

    I'm not sure what to make of your slot question. Your PV breakers are two pole (240 V) that need to connect to both phases. That usually means each breaker will consume two slots, so adding a 10 A and a 15 A would take four slots total, leaving only one for the AC. A 4 ton AC is probably a 240 V load as well (30 A breaker?), which would also need two slots and leave you one short. If you have single phase loads that are consuming an entire slot, you should be able to replace the breakers with half-sized breakers and get two circuits per slot, but you'll need to share more about the existing wiring to know. If you are slot-limited, the external string combiner into a single 25 A PV breaker is another way around the problem.

    If you want to go the load analysis route, before hiring someone, it would be a good idea to talk to your AHJ about what they want to see to support supplying a centerfed panel with PV over 100% of the bus rating. Maybe you can do it yourself, maybe they'll require a PE stamp, and maybe they won't entertain it at all. With end fed panels, code allows 120% no problem if the PV breaker is at the opposite end from the supply, but anything else is murky.

    Glen's suggestion to run 2 ground electrodes is a good one, if you don't already have them or a Ufer. The bonded pair is almost certain to be approved... anything else can become a subject of debate.

    Leave a comment:


  • Glen
    replied
    Ah, I wasn't thinking microinverters, yeah, wiring would be different. Note, my installers added two earth grounds, spaced 6 feet apart and ran both back to the inverter

    Leave a comment:


  • Dan Z
    replied
    To summarize in detail (using strings of 8 and 12)
    1) run the two Enphase trunk cables into a weatherproof junction box on the roof and connect them them to two 12/2 with ground AWG (also connect the earth ground running to the panel bonding circuit).
    2) run solid conduit out of the junction box and through a sealed roof penetration
    3) run two 12 AWG through my attic with flex conduit
    4) run the wires through the side wall of the attic and into solid conduit and down the exterior of the house
    5) run the wires into the main box using a 15 A and a 10 A

    I still want to add a 4 ton AC unit. Is this a problem. Currently, I have 5 open slots (3 above the main and 2 below). I guess two at the top will be used by the PV. I think I may be ok if I do the engineered load calculation because I have no big loads (gas dryer, gas stove, no pool). Do I need to hire someone to do this calculation? I have tried a spreadsheet on the internet, but the terminology is set up for pros and I couldn't figure out my load.

    Leave a comment:


  • Glen
    replied
    Originally posted by Dan Z
    Thanks for the offer Glen! Considering I am planning a microinverter system (for now), I think the differences are significant. So, seeing the electrical will not be very helpful. I will let you know if I change my mind. BTW: I am on Calle Mejor.
    I think wiring from the inverter to panel are pretty much the same, no? In any case, sometimes seeing something in person is helpful. I'm on Sitio Borde.

    Leave a comment:


  • sensij
    replied
    Originally posted by Dan Z

    In my case, I am planning a 5.7 kW system with microinverters (20 panels at 285 each). Two branches. Am I ok with my current panel (adding two 15 A of PV)?
    If you have a centerfed panel with a 125 A bus and a 100 A main breaker, that leaves 25 A available for PV. Two 15 A breakers would not be ok*.

    Again, inverter size matters, not solar panel rating. You are planning 20 M250's. At 1.0 A rating each, that is 20 A. Minimum PV breaker is 1.25 the inverter rating, or 25 A. If you combine the strings outside the main panel and then use a 25 A PV breaker, you will be OK. The combiner would need to provide 20 A overcurrent protection per string to protect the 12 AWG trunk cable.

    If you don't combine externally, 16 M250's * 1.25 = 20 A. If you have one string of 16 and one of 4, you would need a 20 A breaker and a 5 A breaker to stay under the 25 A allowed. I'm not sure that 5 A two pole breakers exist, but if you change it to a string of 12 and a string of 8, you could run that into a 15 A and a 10 A breaker and be compliant.

    In any case, with only 25 A to work with, you can't put more than 20 M250's onto that center fed service panel (*without doing an engineered load calculation to explain why your bus won't get overloaded)
    Last edited by sensij; 03-10-2016, 04:15 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dan Z
    replied
    Thanks for the offer Glen! Considering I am planning a microinverter system (for now), I think the differences are significant. So, seeing the electrical will not be very helpful. I will let you know if I change my mind. BTW: I am on Calle Mejor.

    Leave a comment:


  • Glen
    replied
    Originally posted by Dan Z


    What city? Mircoinverters or string inverter? I think 4.125 is about 17 Amps (so probably two branches for a microinverter system). They fed the wires directly into your main panel?
    Dan, I'm the one who pointed you to this forum from NextDoor. Same neighborhood as you. I'm using a SolarEdge 3800 inverter, 15 panels with optimizers on a single string. You're welcome to come by and look over my system.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dan Z
    replied
    Originally posted by sensij

    Inverter size matters more than panel rating. In your case, a 3800 W inverter will have a 20 A PV breaker. For a center-fed panel with a 100 A main and 125 A bus, adding 20 A of PV is fine.
    In my case, I am planning a 5.7 kW system with microinverters (20 panels at 285 each). Two branches. Am I ok with my current panel (adding two 15 A of PV)?

    Leave a comment:


  • Dan Z
    replied
    Originally posted by Glen
    Interesting, I think I have the same panel as originally posted. No issues with my 4.125 kWp system.

    What city? Mircoinverters or string inverter? I think 4.125 is about 17 Amps (so probably two branches for a microinverter system). They fed the wires directly into your main panel?

    Leave a comment:


  • sensij
    replied
    Originally posted by Glen
    Interesting, I think I have the same panel as originally posted. No issues with my 4.125 kWp system.
    Inverter size matters more than panel rating. In your case, a 3800 W inverter will have a 20 A PV breaker. For a center-fed panel with a 100 A main and 125 A bus, adding 20 A of PV is fine.

    Leave a comment:


  • Glen
    replied
    Interesting, I think I have the same panel as originally posted. No issues with my 4.125 kWp system.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dan Z
    replied
    Wow! I assume you are not an electrician. If I decide to go the same route, would you be available to discuss the details of the install?

    --Mod Note: The Forum would like to distance itself from any how-to discussion of DIY performing of electrical work that, in most of the US anyway requires a permit and the services of a licensed electrician.
    Last edited by inetdog; 03-12-2016, 02:25 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • jsquared22
    replied
    Originally posted by Dan Z
    What did the install cost and do you have a recommended electrician? Or did you do it yourself?

    It was a struggle to find an electrician with my budget. I ended up doing it myself.

    Leave a comment:


  • jsquared22
    replied
    Here's a picture of the install.
    You do not have permission to view this gallery.
    This gallery has 1 photos.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dan Z
    replied
    What did the install cost and do you have a recommended electrician? Or did you do it yourself?

    Leave a comment:

Working...