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  • foo1bar
    Solar Fanatic
    • Aug 2014
    • 1833

    #1

    Which racking to buy - Ironridge XR10 or Mounting Systems Alpha+

    I priced out racking for the two different systems.
    And it comes out to $1100 for Ironridge XR10 and $1140 for Mounting Systems Alpha+

    (neither including the quickmount PV)

    Anyone have any good reasons to go with one over the other?
    Or recommendation for something else that you think is better?
  • HX_Guy
    Solar Fanatic
    • Apr 2014
    • 1002

    #2
    My system used all Unirac stuff and I really like it. Their new mid-clamps also have integrated panel grounding which is nice. Not sure how they compare in price for what you need but check out ressupply.com and look at the 168" mill finish rails, they seem to be the best priced compared to other sites I looked at.

    Comment

    • foo1bar
      Solar Fanatic
      • Aug 2014
      • 1833

      #3
      Originally posted by HX_Guy
      My system used all Unirac stuff and I really like it. Their new mid-clamps also have integrated panel grounding which is nice. Not sure how they compare in price for what you need but check out ressupply and look at the 168" mill finish rails, they seem to be the best priced compared to other sites I looked at.
      168 unirac is $35; while xr10 is $31 and change (on site you supplied above)
      The site I'm looking at is a few pennies cheaper for xr10 - and a little more (just over $36) for the unirac.

      It seems that most racking systems now use the grounding mid-clamps.

      Is there a good reason to spend $50-100 more on Unirac?

      [anyone who wants to know what site I'm using feel free to PM me - I'm not adding the URL for renvu so my post doesn't get moderated away]

      Comment

      • sensij
        Solar Fanatic
        • Sep 2014
        • 5074

        #4
        The IronRidge stuff is nice, and includes the integral grounding. I just received a sample pack of it today, and am glad that it is what we'll be using on my installation. If it matters to you, it is also available black anodized.

        Edit: When I was looking at a lot of pictures, the Unirac higher end Sunframe style (as opposed to the more common Solarmount) looked best to me of everything, but the premium for it is steep.
        CS6P-260P/SE3000 - http://tiny.cc/ed5ozx

        Comment

        • HX_Guy
          Solar Fanatic
          • Apr 2014
          • 1002

          #5
          Originally posted by foo1bar
          168 unirac is $35; while xr10 is $31 and change (on site you supplied above)
          The site I'm looking at is a few pennies cheaper for xr10 - and a little more (just over $36) for the unirac.

          It seems that most racking systems now use the grounding mid-clamps.

          Is there a good reason to spend $50-100 more on Unirac?

          [anyone who wants to know what site I'm using feel free to PM me - I'm not adding the URL for renvu so my post doesn't get moderated away]
          Renvu does have some great prices, and while I never bought anything from them, I could never get anyone to answer the phone when I called. Their chat is good though.
          On the other hand Ressupply is fantastic, super fast shipping, normally same day and I'd have it a couple days later. I also had good luck with them price matching Renvu or at least giving the best discount they could, so you can definitely ask and see what they can do.

          Comment

          • awhite
            Junior Member
            • Jan 2015
            • 25

            #6
            Originally posted by sensij
            The IronRidge stuff is nice, and includes the integral grounding. I just received a sample pack of it today, and am glad that it is what we'll be using on my installation. If it matters to you, it is also available black anodized.

            Edit: When I was looking at a lot of pictures, the Unirac higher end Sunframe style (as opposed to the more common Solarmount) looked best to me of everything, but the premium for it is steep.
            I'm looking at Ironridge XR100 in black and wonder if i can go with Ironridge XR10 instead. I'm in CA, so no snow. Ironridge XR10 is also less expensive than the XR100, but doesn't come in black.

            Comment

            • foo1bar
              Solar Fanatic
              • Aug 2014
              • 1833

              #7
              Originally posted by awhite
              I'm looking at Ironridge XR100 in black and wonder if i can go with Ironridge XR10 instead. I'm in CA, so no snow. Ironridge XR10 is also less expensive than the XR100, but doesn't come in black.
              If you're in an area that doesn't get snow, and doesn't have really high winds, I don't know any reason you can't use XR10 if you want.

              XR10 doesn't allow as long of spans between feet. But for me, that's not a real problem, since the building permit process was simplified if I did attachments every 4' - so wouldn't have benefited by going to 6' or 8' between feet.

              I'm currently in the process of putting the rails up - and I am noticing the lack of rigidity in the rails. I think I had a spot where I hadn't brought the rail up in the middle - and it was at least an 1/8" of "sag" in the middle of that 8' span. Getting it back to straight/level was easy enough - just a matter of pulling it up then tightening the bolt. With 4' spans (and nothing holding it down in the middle ) everything's fine, and I don't think I would spend the extra for the xr100.

              Comment

              • awhite
                Junior Member
                • Jan 2015
                • 25

                #8
                Originally posted by foo1bar
                If you're in an area that doesn't get snow, and doesn't have really high winds, I don't know any reason you can't use XR10 if you want.

                XR10 doesn't allow as long of spans between feet. But for me, that's not a real problem, since the building permit process was simplified if I did attachments every 4' - so wouldn't have benefited by going to 6' or 8' between feet.

                I'm currently in the process of putting the rails up - and I am noticing the lack of rigidity in the rails. I think I had a spot where I hadn't brought the rail up in the middle - and it was at least an 1/8" of "sag" in the middle of that 8' span. Getting it back to straight/level was easy enough - just a matter of pulling it up then tightening the bolt. With 4' spans (and nothing holding it down in the middle ) everything's fine, and I don't think I would spend the extra for the xr100.
                Is 4' a default span length? I'm guessing it's normal practice to put attachments on every second or third rafter?

                I'm leaning towards the XR100 so I can have a longer span length (6' rather than 4'), and therefore less attachment points/holes on my roof, but I'm guessing span length depends on what the local city building permit requires. The install area is 30 feet long by 11 high.

                How do you figure out how far apart an attachment point is from each other on the same rafter? I'll have 2 rows of panels, so i'll have 4 attachments on 1 rafter. I'm trying to draw the panel layout and attachment points for the permit. I guess it all depends on the panel measurements. Go two cells in from the top and bottom edge of the panel? Thanks in advance...

                Comment

                • ericf1
                  Member
                  • Oct 2014
                  • 83

                  #9
                  Originally posted by awhite
                  Is 4' a default span length? I'm guessing it's normal practice to put attachments on every second or third rafter?

                  I'm leaning towards the XR100 so I can have a longer span length (6' rather than 4'), and therefore less attachment points/holes on my roof, but I'm guessing span length depends on what the local city building permit requires. The install area is 30 feet long by 11 high.

                  How do you figure out how far apart an attachment point is from each other on the same rafter? I'll have 2 rows of panels, so i'll have 4 attachments on 1 rafter. I'm trying to draw the panel layout and attachment points for the permit. I guess it all depends on the panel measurements. Go two cells in from the top and bottom edge of the panel? Thanks in advance...
                  I'm having XR100 installed right now on a composite shingle roof, and I'm pretty impressed with the simplicity and sturdiness of the system. According to the tech brief the XR100 can do 8' spans. I would think every third rafter would be fine/ideal. My panels are overhanging the racks 10" top and bottom.
                  24xLG300N+SE7600 [url]http://tiny.cc/n7ucvx[/url]

                  Comment

                  • foo1bar
                    Solar Fanatic
                    • Aug 2014
                    • 1833

                    #10
                    Originally posted by awhite
                    Is 4' a default span length? I'm guessing it's normal practice to put attachments on every second or third rafter?
                    I have 2’ on center rafters.
                    4’ between attachments is what the AHJ would accept without any additional documentation needed. (ie. no engineering analysis needed)
                    So my feet are generally every-other rafter. (a few spots where they’re 2’ apart because of how things worked out.)

                    Originally posted by awhite
                    I'm leaning towards the XR100 so I can have a longer span length (6' rather than 4'), and therefore less attachment points/holes on my roof, but I'm guessing span length depends on what the local city building permit requires. The install area is 30 feet long by 11 high.
                    I’d probably use ironridge’s online tool - then you can show what it said to your AHJ. And if they’re happy with that, then go with it.

                    How do you figure out how far apart an attachment point is from each other on the same rafter? I'll have 2 rows of panels, so i'll have 4 attachments on 1 rafter. I'm trying to draw the panel layout and attachment points for the permit. I guess it all depends on the panel measurements. Go two cells in from the top and bottom edge of the panel? Thanks in advance...
                    I figured out the placement of the rails (vertically) after I had everything purchased.

                    The panels should have installation instructions for what range it’s OK to have the rails attachment points. For example, on the long edge my panels had a 230mm wide range for where the clamps should go, and that range was 270mm from each end (1640mm long panels, so from 270mm to 500mm and from 1140mm to 1370mm) For the short edge (I will have some in landscape mode) the allowed clamping point is 0-100mm from each edge – so on my 1000mm panel it’s from 0-100 for the bottom set and 900-1000mm for the top set)

                    And some of the rails I put up are closer to the edge of the panel, some are closer to the middle – a lot depended on where the feet (quickmount e-mounts) would land on the shingle courses.

                    Comment

                    • awhite
                      Junior Member
                      • Jan 2015
                      • 25

                      #11
                      Originally posted by foo1bar
                      I have 2’ on center rafters.
                      4’ between attachments is what the AHJ would accept without any additional documentation needed. (ie. no engineering analysis needed)
                      So my feet are generally every-other rafter. (a few spots where they’re 2’ apart because of how things worked out.)


                      I’d probably use ironridge’s online tool - then you can show what it said to your AHJ. And if they’re happy with that, then go with it.



                      I figured out the placement of the rails (vertically) after I had everything purchased.

                      The panels should have installation instructions for what range it’s OK to have the rails attachment points. For example, on the long edge my panels had a 230mm wide range for where the clamps should go, and that range was 270mm from each end (1640mm long panels, so from 270mm to 500mm and from 1140mm to 1370mm) For the short edge (I will have some in landscape mode) the allowed clamping point is 0-100mm from each edge – so on my 1000mm panel it’s from 0-100 for the bottom set and 900-1000mm for the top set)

                      And some of the rails I put up are closer to the edge of the panel, some are closer to the middle – a lot depended on where the feet (quickmount e-mounts) would land on the shingle courses.
                      Thanks for the reply. I also ordered Quickmounts. Which grounding method are you using? The Ironridge Integrated Grounding or Wiley?

                      Comment

                      • foo1bar
                        Solar Fanatic
                        • Aug 2014
                        • 1833

                        #12
                        Originally posted by awhite
                        Thanks for the reply. I also ordered Quickmounts. Which grounding method are you using? The Ironridge Integrated Grounding or Wiley?

                        I am mostly using ironridge grounding-midclamps.

                        The exception is that I have 2 single-panel spots, and for those I have to ground each rail and ground the panel with a lug on the panel.

                        On the plus side, for those where I'm using mid-clamps, I only have to ground 1 of the two rails for each row of panels.

                        But on the minus side, from what I can tell, XR10 requires the ground wire lug for the rail to be on the top of the rail - there isn't a way to hide it underneath the panels.

                        Comment

                        • awhite
                          Junior Member
                          • Jan 2015
                          • 25

                          #13
                          Originally posted by foo1bar
                          I am mostly using ironridge grounding-midclamps.

                          The exception is that I have 2 single-panel spots, and for those I have to ground each rail and ground the panel with a lug on the panel.

                          On the plus side, for those where I'm using mid-clamps, I only have to ground 1 of the two rails for each row of panels.

                          But on the minus side, from what I can tell, XR10 requires the ground wire lug for the rail to be on the top of the rail - there isn't a way to hide it underneath the panels.

                          I'm guessing it's necessary to explain Integrated Grounding on the permit application?

                          Comment

                          • Samsolar
                            Member
                            • Dec 2014
                            • 77

                            #14
                            The Ironridge online design tool is very good and will tell you the maximum span and overhang for your system. It is very easy to input your layout and determine all materials required.

                            SAM

                            Comment

                            • foo1bar
                              Solar Fanatic
                              • Aug 2014
                              • 1833

                              #15
                              [QUOTE=awhite;139074]I'm guessing it's necessary to explain Integrated Grounding on the permit application?[/QU

                              I didn't explain it.
                              I think I had in the permit that I would be using grounding midclamps.

                              Comment

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