Why can't you transition from PV Wire to THWN-2 via MC4 connectors?

[HX_Guy]

It doesn't take much to damage the insulation when pulling it through. (been there, done that)

But the thing I would be more concerned about is any metal edge that could slowly abrade the wire insulation as it moves in the wind.

Well that's not good, how would you even know if the insulation got damaged if inside the conduit?

[inetdog]

Well that's not good, how would you even know if the insulation got damaged if inside the conduit?

Well, one way would be to fill the conduit with water and then do a Megger test on the wires.
Can't say I would recommend that for routine situations though.

[SunEagle]

Well, one way would be to fill the conduit with water and then do a Megger test on the wires.
Can't say I would recommend that for routine situations though.

He could try a Hi-Pot test Of course that would probably damage the insulation since that practice is only done on 5kv and > insulated cable.

[foo1bar]

Well that's not good, how would you even know if the insulation got damaged if inside the conduit?

When I damaged it, it caught on the metal, and snagged enough that it wasn't pulling through anymore (and when I looked, oh crap I just made a good sized gouge into the insulation)

[sensij]

I don't know, it has 5/5 stars with 13 reviews so seems ok. Maybe it's not great for long term use but for a few crimps?

Why not save even more money and just use a pair of needle nose pliers? After spending tens of thousands on everything else so far, actually making the connections seems like a great place to go cheap.

[HX_Guy]

Why not save even more money and just use a pair of needle nose pliers? After spending tens of thousands on everything else so far, actually making the connections seems like a great place to go cheap.

It's a crimper, come on.

I also used a $99 Stanley cordless drill to drive in the lag bolts. Should have went out and bought a $400+ drill because the rest of the system was $20k? Come on...

[sensij]

It's a crimper, come on.

I also used a $99 Stanley cordless drill to drive in the lag bolts. Should have went out and bought a $400+ drill because the rest of the system was $20k? Come on...

When a drilled hole becomes a current carrying conductor that can directly affect the efficiency and reliability of your system, maybe your post above would make sense.

As far as crimpers go, this one looks better to me, for only slightly more. It is probably close to the same design, but the Signstek one you found isn't even a real company.

None of the wires you will be crimping are larger than 10 AWG, are they?

[HX_Guy]

No, they are 10AWG.

[inetdog]

No, they are 10AWG.

In an industrial/commercial environment an inspector will sometimes look for the marking embossed into the crimp by the crimper die. If it does not match the specifications from the maker of the crimp connector they will fail the job.
Not likely you will run into this, but the testing and certification involved amounts to a significant part of the price of a professional crimping set.