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  • Belzarrath
    Junior Member
    • Oct 2013
    • 7

    #1

    Confused over grounding "continous"

    I understand that different regions of US may have different regulations. I would like input on running ground for rails, inverters and modules. Does the ground need to be continuous, without splices? And if so to what point. I have tried researching on the net. I have seen continuous ground to main or others continuous to Disconnect. I've tried looking at NECs but my interruption may not be correct.
    What I would like to be able to do is run continuous ground 8 awg bare copper from rails, inverters and modules to the combiner box. Then connect 10awg THHN/THWN to blade disconnect and to main breaker.
    I hope I explained this well enough,
    Thank you for you help and input.

    Also, this is a ground mount with Conduit to disconnect, and if I understand correctly, bare wire should not be run in conduit, there fore, it must be spliced before running through the conduit to house. Does this sound justified?
  • Mike90250
    Moderator
    • May 2009
    • 16020

    #2
    Generally, it means a single, long wire that connects all the panel frames and metal mounts, and then the wire goes to the ground rod. Only thermal weld splices allowed I believe. But as you say, different inspectors read the code and view your install, differently.
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

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    Comment

    • ChrisOlson
      Solar Fanatic
      • Sep 2013
      • 630

      #3
      Originally posted by Mike90250
      Generally, it means a single, long wire that connects all the panel frames and metal mounts, and then the wire goes to the ground rod. Only thermal weld splices allowed I believe.
      That's what the local place we got our panels from told me. He sold us all the stuff for it. I can't remember what brand the rails are (they're not UniRac - something else more heavy duty). But the modules mount to the rails with WEEB clips I think they're called that ground them to the rails. Then there's a ground lug on each rail. We ran a bare 6 AWG copper wire from lug to lug to lug on the rails and that goes to the ground rod for the array.

      But the equipment grounds for inverter, boxes, etc. are all separate. Most of those are 10 AWG bare copper wire. They all eventually go to a ground rod for the system where the neutral/ground bond is made at the Main panel. The neutral and ground in the Main are the same bus. The neutrals (for AC) and the ground in all the other equipment is separate. The DC system ground is also bonded to that equipment ground. We don't use the GFP in our MPPT controllers because our DC system ground is bonded to the equipment ground.

      We had it all inspected for building code here (even though we live off-grid) when we put our XW Power System in. The inspector went from box to box with an ohmmeter to the equipment ground rod and looked inside boxes to see what size wire was used, etc.. It all passed even though I put it all in myself. The only thing he complained about was that I didn't use GFI outlets in the boxes in my shop, and the fact that the branch circuit for the shop goes to a SquareD 100A panel that doesn't have a Main Breaker in it. The Main for the shop is in the inverter distribution panel in the power room and shuts off the power to the underground feed to the building. But he let that go and didn't make me change it, saying since we live off-grid and have a Main breaker someplace for it, and the outlet boxes in the shop are properly circuit protected, he'd pass it.
      off-grid in Northern Wisconsin for 14 years

      Comment

      • Belzarrath
        Junior Member
        • Oct 2013
        • 7

        #4
        Thank you for the help, this is getting so over whelming, one thing after another. State has no clue or standard, if I ask inspectors I endanger alarming them to situations which they may not know or usual look for. "happened on several occasions, arc fault". Now I concerned with structure, that I have wood piers in stead of pipe which manufacture state in website. I'm near the point of forgetting about this project and wasting my investment.

        Comment

        • Shockah
          Solar Fanatic
          • Nov 2013
          • 569

          #5
          Not a DIY task in Hawaii anymore...

          Originally posted by Mike90250
          .............But as you say, different inspectors read the code and view your install, differently.


          NEW Hawaii Rules now require PV system grounding and bonding to be performed by Electrical Contractor...

          A Hawaii state board has issued new rules for solar panel installation that will require journeyman electricians to do more of the work. That move is expected to raise the costs of installing the panels.
          [CENTER]SunLight @ Night[/CENTER]

          Comment

          • MGE
            Solar Fanatic
            • Feb 2013
            • 152

            #6
            Here in San Diego you would run a continuous wire #8 or #6 and bond all separate rails inverters and panels as per code but you CAN also cut the wire and splice in a box if needed. The splice has to be a irreversible one, meaning a pressure crimp type not a mechanical one. I have 3 areas with (17)panels, (6) panels, and (11) panels and all connected by 3/4" conduit with a #6 ground and have 3 j-boxes with ground splices in them. The main ground goes directly to a ground rod at the main service. Good luck

            Comment

            • Naptown
              Solar Fanatic
              • Feb 2011
              • 6880

              #7
              Originally posted by MGE
              Here in San Diego you would run a continuous wire #8 or #6 and bond all separate rails inverters and panels as per code but you CAN also cut the wire and splice in a box if needed. The splice has to be a irreversible one, meaning a pressure crimp type not a mechanical one. I have 3 areas with (17)panels, (6) panels, and (11) panels and all connected by 3/4" conduit with a #6 ground and have 3 j-boxes with ground splices in them. The main ground goes directly to a ground rod at the main service. Good luck
              That is the proper way to do it and that is the grounding electrode conductor which should bond panels racks inverter etc.
              If you use plastic pipe from ground array to inverter include a # 10 equipment grounding conductor.
              It would be best for you to hire a local electrician to do this portion for you
              NABCEP certified Technical Sales Professional

              [URL="http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/showthread.php?5334-Solar-Off-Grid-Battery-Design"]http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/showth...Battery-Design[/URL]

              [URL]http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html[/URL] (Voltage drop Calculator among others)

              [URL="http://www.gaisma.com"]www.gaisma.com[/URL]

              Comment

              • MGE
                Solar Fanatic
                • Feb 2013
                • 152

                #8
                2X on the hiring of a licensed electrician to make your connections. It might sound pretty easy but it takes a trained eye to catch the mistakes before or to make changes for the better. Grounding isn't very important until it's needed then it can save someones life.

                Comment

                • Belzarrath
                  Junior Member
                  • Oct 2013
                  • 7

                  #9
                  I see it more than me that have the problems

                  Well my new philosophy will be to ask the community many questions and procedures on how to do things and role with it. If it doesn't pass I can blame everyone else!!!
                  My electrician sayed that an irreversible splice was fine for ground, and possibly in box splice.
                  Soon I will post help on creating a combiner box from a sub panel box to make sure I get it right.
                  Thanks for the input and help gentlemen. HAVE A GOOD WEEK.

                  Comment

                  • bcroe
                    Solar Fanatic
                    • Jan 2012
                    • 5213

                    #10
                    Grounds

                    Originally posted by MGE
                    Here in San Diego you would run a continuous wire #8 or #6 and bond all separate rails inverters and panels as per code but you CAN also cut the wire and splice in a box if needed. The splice has to be a irreversible one, meaning a pressure crimp type not a mechanical one. I have 3 areas with (17)panels, (6) panels, and (11) panels and all connected by 3/4" conduit with a #6 ground and have 3 j-boxes with ground splices in them. The main ground goes directly to a ground rod at the main service. Good luck
                    On any ground work, I first wire a temporary ground around the one being worked.

                    Thinking ground on a ground array, there are 48 concrete posts grounding the
                    aluminum structure. Concrete does a pretty good ground. But on another array
                    there are wood mounts. Yes as well grounded as any roof mount. But i decided
                    to put in another ground rod at each of the 10 supports, give lightning more paths.

                    I just went shopping for some stranded 6 bare ground wire. Needed maybe 150' and
                    planned to spend about that many $. At the "you save more at M.." was a 50' roll
                    for $1.50 a foot, too much. Then some on sale at $.90, but not nearly enough. 300'
                    was $.75, but I didn't need that much. Another store, I can get 500" insulated for
                    $.41 a foot, that is a deal, within budget, and leaves lots more for future projects.
                    Hey I can cut some insulation off, I took it home. Bruce Roe

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