installation with broken glass solar panel problem

[Kenelito]

Hello, last year I have found in the street a free Suntech STP180S - 24/Ad 180watt solar panel with the glass broken (after a big icy storm in my region).

Open - Circuit Voltage (Voc) 44.8V
Optimum Operating Voltage (Vmp) 36.0V
Short - Circuit Current (Isc) 5.29A
Optimum Operating Current (Imp) 5A
Maximum Power at STC (Pmax) 180Wp
Operating Temperature -40C to +85C
Maximum System Voltage 1000V DC
Maximum Series Fuse Rating 15A
Power Tolerance +/- 3%
Solar Cell Mono-crystalline 125×125mm
No. of Cells 72 (6×12)
Dimensions 1580×808×35mm
Weight 15.5kg
Front Glass 3.2 mm tempered glass
Frame Anodized aluminium alloy
Junction box IP67 rated
Output cables H+S RADOX SMART cable 4.0mm2, RADOX SOLAR integrated twist locking connectors or MC4 connectors
Nominal Operating Cell Temperature 45C +/- 2C
Temperature coefficient of Pmax -0.48 %/C
Temperature coefficient of Voc -0.34 %/C
Temperature coefficient of Isc 0.037 %/ C

I want to make a solar installation with this one, because I don't need a lot of energy (led lighting, low power consumption computer, and solar shower).
I've just bought a CMP12 Charge Controler.

Color: Black
Type: 101 (10A, 12/24V) CMP12
Rated Voltage: 12V/24V
Rated Charge Current: 10A
Rated Load Current: 10A
Working Temperature: -20 to 60℃
Voltage Of Stop Power Supply: 10.8V or 21.6V
Voltage Of Resume Power Supply: 11.8V or 23.6V
Voltage Of Stop Charging: 14V or 28V
Temperature Coefficient Of Voltage Stop Charge: -3mV/°/C/cell
Size: 101(L) x 95(W) x 35(H)mm
Net Weight: 162g
Adaptive three-stage charging mode
Charge your battery with auto charging mode to avoide power supply fault, ensure effective and full capacity charging result
Prevent the capacity of your battery from attenuation aging
Over-load protection
Short circuit protection
Under-voltage protection
Over-charging protection
Protection from the lightning strike

My aunt gave me her car battery it's a quite new 12 volt 50ah one.

I wonder what can I use to regulate the voltage coming from the solar panel (it still gave 80 watt in full charge... but strangely it have broken my voltmeter after mesurate it 5-6 times).

I wonder where I can find a stuff which take 10-36 volt (5 amp) and transform it in 12 volt 10 amp before plug it to my cheap charge controler.

I've seen on ebay a "120W-GOLF-CART-Voltage-Reducer-Converter-Regulator-36V-To-12V-10A-36-volt-10amp", would it be OK ?

I am totaly newbie in solar panel technology and I am not very rich.

[daz]

...solar panel with the glass broken (after a big icy storm in my region).

You are going to have to make a box to place the solar panel into, as moisture will destroy your panel...

I want to make a solar installation with this one, because I don't need a lot of energy (led lighting, low power consumption computer, and solar shower).

Computers are not low consumption devices...even small ones still draw quite a bit of power in a day!

Your 180W panel, assuming it still puts out 180W, will only provide about 360W (at 4 solar hours) using your PWM controller (enough power to run the average computer with LCD screen for about 3 hours)

I've just bought a CMP12 Charge Controler.

This is a PWM controller, which means you are losing 35% of your solar panels energy. It will work, but is not very efficient (MPPT controllers are the preferred).

My aunt gave me her car battery it's a quite new 12 volt 50ah one.

Car batteries are not made for solar applications, and will not last long at all. It is far better, and more economical to buy an AGM or FLA battery.
FYI, you will need 2 x 12V batteries for a 24V system (which is what your panel is for), or you will need to buy an MPPT controller.

I wonder what can I use to regulate the voltage coming from the solar panel (it still gave 80 watt in full charge... but strangely it have broken my voltmeter after mesurate it 5-6 times).

I wonder where I can find a stuff which take 10-36 volt (5 amp) and transform it in 12 volt 10 amp before plug it to my cheap charge controler.

The charge controller takes care of the voltage.....that's why it is used....
Although the cheapy you bought, I doubt will handle the 36V, even if the controller is made for 24V. However, an MPPT controller will not have a problem...

[Kenelito]

Car battery = free and you can renewal it with electricity impulsion injection technic (for free to if you have the goods friends ^^), solar pannel = free, charge controler = 15$ (I don't care about the 35% less because all is near free or recycled). I am poor, I can't spend 400 euros on some solar panel and stuff needed for it, so the economy on electricity I want to make can pay me a best material after 2 years.

My computer is about 45watt in full charge with screen (decoding 1080p divx or mp4), and 20watt and less when surfing on the web, I am a computer assembler since 1998. So with a 80watt panel it can be good to charge the car battery (it's a quite new one). My light is about 7watt and 3 watt led. Sometime I open all my light because I forget it (7+7+3=17 watt).

So do you have an answer for my question or not ?

[Kenelito]

Yeah okay Chinese MPPT controler are not expensive on ebay, that cool ! Let's try it soon...

[daz]

Car battery = free

The first one yes....and in 6 months when you need to replace it?

...and you can renewal it with electricity impulsion injection technic (for free to if you have the goods friends ^^),

How is that going to help? The battery's plates get corroded when cycled, so unless your "electricity impulsion injection technic" can put lead back onto the plates...it still not going to help...

charge controler = 15$ (I don't care about the 35% less because all is near free or recycled).

Just because it is free/cheap doesnt mean it will work together. Have you checked to make sure that the cheapy controller can handle the 44.8V that the solar panel puts out? I have used those controllers, and the last time I checked the max was about 40V. If the Voc is higher than what the controller can handle, then your controller is fried!

I am poor, I can't spend 400 euros on some solar panel and stuff needed for it, so the economy on electricity I want to make can pay me a best material after 2 years.

Then rather not go for solar. Solar costs more than grid electricity. The only time it makes sense is if you have a lot of money, have no grid connection at all, or your country gives you some sort of rebate.

So do you have an answer for my question or not ?

Well, if you still want to crash and burn.....
Because you are using a cheap PWM controller, and a 12V system, the maximum power you are going to get from your solar panel (assuming there is no smoke...) is 5A, or 60W (yes....you do not have a 180W panel anymore...just 60W). That is why going cheap doesnt help!

So your 60W array, assuming 4 solar hours (not sure how accurate that is for Europe), the most power you will have to use in a day is about 240WH (without even considering losses).


Now...

My computer is about 45watt

This sounds really low? You must have a miniature computer!
But in any case, assuming these are actual measurements that you have taken yourself, and not just from the labels....
Then your computer would run for about 4 odd hours. However, if you wanted to use lighting, then your computer would run for less.


Coming back to my first post...have you built a box for the solar panel yet (as you said it had cracked glass)?

[Kenelito]

Not yet, I've just find a second free car battery (to get 12+12=24 volt). And the panel is not actually exposed to rain. But I will build a box for it, and I will buy a better charge controler, after testing if it's really working with the CMP12 in 24 volt mode. Thank you for your advice. I will give you feedback and make picture or movie of my solar panel config for sure ^^ !

[daz]

And the panel is not actually exposed to rain. But I will build a box for it,

Even if the panel is not exposed to direct water, the panel will 'absob' water moisture in the air, which will destroy the solar panel. You need to keep air away from the silicon cells.

and I will buy a better charge controler, after testing if it's really working with the CMP12 in 24 volt mode.

Just make sure that the cmp controller can accept the 44V input, otherwise you will just burn it up!

Thank you for your advice. I will give you feedback and make picture or movie of my solar panel config for sure ^^ !

No problem. Just remember, the parts that you have now may not work properly together...so don't invest a lot of money. If you do want to spend money, rather get the right parts!

All the best!