Questions about my new Hybrid setup

[DickyDck]

WOW! thanks for this info. I have a combox yes, bought on my own since the solar company didn't tell me it was an option.

So here are my settings

System Devices>XW>Settings>Charger Settings
Battery Type = AGM
Battery Bank Capacity = 220 Ah
Maximum Charge Rate = 100%
Maximum Bulk Charge Current = 140.0 A
Maximum Absorption Charge Current = 140.0 A
Maximum Float Charge Current = 140.0 A


Grid Support = Enabled

XW is set to 2-stage, both Charge Controllers set to 3-stage

Grid Support Voltage = 64.0 V

GVS = Disable

As for the gear I got, it was sold as a package and installed by the company. They are claiming the issue I am experiencing is a firmware issue, so I updated today, but it's been a crap cloudy day so I can't test.


As for your first line...
"With a 220ah bat. bank @ 48v = 10,560wh / 20 = 528w, never pull more than that from that 6.8k inverter!"

Could you elaborate on this, I don't speak electrician very well I am not sure how I would control this, whether it is a setting within the system, or if you mean out of the panel?


And also, thanks again!!!

[goodoleme]

Your battery bank is to small and should not be used with the inverter in a current source mode, it's not the firmware!

1) Your battery bank is way undersized, you need, at a minimum l16s @ 435ah.

2) You have way to much current from the solar, = overcharge on the battery bank, 2 60-150s @ 60 amps each, 120 amps!

3) Your inverter at it's default of 140 amps will overcharge the battery bank also.

4) You have 24x300=7200 watts of solar and going into 2 60-150s and only getting out 120 amps, You need 150 amps from 2 charge controllers (2 80-600) 24x300=7200 / 48 = 150 amps, you are clipping at best.

5) From your video you are putting out 5kw+ in a current source mode, so you have 5kw+ of loads on a 220ah battery bank, this is a big no no.

Long and short:

To fix this you need a 440+ah battery bank, and 150 amps from 2 charge controllers, so get 2 80-600s.

Get 24 2v 1500ah bats.

The xw+ is a great inverter it can be used as a voltage source inverter from the battery and a current source inverter with the "battery" and power utility, ***if you have the right size battery bank***

Take Care,
Neil

[DickyDck]

Thanks for all the help man! So just making sure I am understanding everything in your recommendations...


1) Your battery bank is way undersized, you need, at a minimum l16s @ 435ah.
I am planning to get another 8 Crowns to match, I haven't looked but I'm pretty sure I can't afford the 24 x 2v 1500ah batteries you suggested.

2) You have way to much current from the solar, = overcharge on the battery bank, 2 60-150s @ 60 amps each, 120 amps!
I kind of wondered that myself with basic math and specs on the charge controllers, thanks for breaking it down for me.

3) Your inverter at it's default of 140 amps will overcharge the battery bank also.
knocked down the Amps based on what you have suggested and broke down for me

4) You have 24x300=7200 watts of solar and going into 2 60-150s and only getting out 120 amps, You need 150 amps from 2 charge controllers (2 80-600) 24x300=7200 / 48 = 150 amps, you are clipping at best.
Get rid of my existing 2 Charge Controllers (MPPT 60 - 150) and grab 2 MPPT 80 - 600 units, this might take a while due to cost of new units, but I imagine the wiring should be a direct replacement unless the company used some really undersized cabling.

5) From your video you are putting out 5kw+ in a current source mode, so you have 5kw+ of loads on a 220ah battery bank, this is a big no no.
this goes back to the battery bank, which I plan to increase the size here soon.

[DickyDck]

Also, it would appear the 80-600 can take more incoming power, so I could in theory add more panels to the existing infrastructure if I replace the 2 CCs I have now, and not have to run another 30 yards of underground heavy gauge cable.

[goodoleme]

Don't do a parallel battery circuit! just get the l16s @ 435ah on the cheep, you would still need to watch your max watts on the inv tho.

For the cc, you can just add one more 60-150, but I would just get HVCCs.

And for your current battery setup don't discharge more than a c/10, when on the inverter, don't pull more than a 1000w.

Also get the battery mon, all you have now is SOC.

And yes if you got 2 80-600 you would get all of your 7200w and still have 10 more amps.

Hope this helps,
Neil

[DickyDck]

sorry for the possible stupid question... HVCCs? I googled the acronym but came up nothing

[Mike90250]

HVCCs High Voltage Charge controllers usually in the 300 - 600v string

Charge controllers are EXPENSIVE , see how you make out this winter, you need full charge at least 3 days a week, even if it means running the generator 7am - 11am for Bulk. and let the solar do the absorb and float

[goodoleme]

Also make sure you set the charging % rate in the charge controllers as you did in the inverter. And only one charge controller is to have the PV-GFP fuse installed in installations with multiple parallel solar charge controllers, just make sure this was setup/done right!

[DickyDck]

I feel like a kid in school all over! and this is a good thing, I'm not trying to sound like a punk kid complaining, this is awesome since when I asked some much more basic questions about the system to the installers they answered but not nearly as thorough. To some degree I think they did just assume everyone doesn't really care too much or want a in-depth technical explanation of the system.

Charge controllers are EXPENSIVE , see how you make out this winter, you need full charge at least 3 days a week, even if it means running the generator 7am - 11am for Bulk. and let the solar do the absorb and float
yeah they are! I Believe they get fully charged at least every other day (depending on sunlight) but that is just looking at the 5 LED bar on the unit, and assuming the COMBOX is giving me accurate data with the last full charge date and time. I am not sure but will wander around the COMBOX to see if it tells me about Float and Absorb. One of the settings has a default Absorption Time of 180min, have no idea what that is for, but that is the same for the Inverter and both CCs. Recharge Voltage on the CCs is 51.0 but on the Inverter is 50.0. Should these all be uniform?

Also make sure you set the charging % rate in the charge controllers as you did in the inverter. And only one charge controller is to have the PV-GFP fuse installed in installations with multiple parallel solar charge controllers, just make sure this was setup/done right!
I found a setting for Maximum Charge Rate on all 3 devices, all set to 100%. I will crack open the bottom panel of both CCs, and see if I am intuitive enough to find this PV-GFP Fuse you speak of!

[DickyDck]

As I am pondering everything, I never mentioned this isn't powering everything in the house, it all goes to a "Critical Loads Sub Panel" and the way it was explained to me is, Solar>batteries>subpanel>anything leftover as far as power then goes to feeding the main panel and anything after that goes back to the grid, in the form of my meter slowly going backwards. I question if this thing spins backwards as often or as fast as when it goes forward... but since my COMBOX is only reading the load for the dub panel it is hard to gauge whole house load.

[Mike90250]

I will advise you, that you should NOT open any of the elelctrical gear boxes. They are not touch safe inside, and 90VDC will KILL you if you do something wrong

If you are not blowing fuses and having the controllers shutting down, DONT MESS inside any of the boxes.

You need to find a local expert to give you a tutorial on your system. I can't do it over the Internet.

Midnite solar has some instructional videos https://www.midnitesolar.com/videoDisplay.php

do a google search for "schneider solar video" and watch some of the shows, learn what the terms are and how to use your combox to adjust the settings.

[goodoleme]

DD,

OK, going to state the obvious, any time when working with electricity all safety precautions NEED be made at all times! All of this equipment is extremely dangerous and WILL cause death and if you're lucky just serious injury or damage to equipment or electrical fire. So with this in mind DO NOT TOUCH anything you are on unfamiliar with and/or comfortable with.

So your sell enable/disable is set to enable in the xw I take it, its under the xw->grid support.

Sorry, I also thought you had FLAs (Flooded lead acid batteries) for some reason and not AGMs. I did find the recommended current and it's a c/10 (10% of c/20 rating) and as high as 25% of c/20 within the AGM Battery Maintenance .pdf

With AGM batteries I would have the battery monitor, as you can't check the SG (Specific Gravity) of the batteries (AGMs) and as of now all you have is battery voltage for SOC (State of charge) witch is not the best.

Take Care,
Neil

[DickyDck]

Thanks! the Battery monitor is my next thing on the list, sorry for the late reply, went out on vacation for a few. I am thinking about swapping out for Lithium batteries in the future, they seem to have the better bang for the buck over time.

[goodoleme]

Hope you had a good time with the fam! Save your money and just get FLA. And with the saved money get the HVCCs!

[DickyDck]

FLA batteries off gas and require routine equalization correct? since I am having all of it technically inside the house (garage which is below all the upstairs bedrooms) I kinda thought that was a risk. FLAs are MUCH cheaper though, and in theory might last longer? I am not sure the life span comparison.