EV Battery As A Backup

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  • Charlie W
    Member
    • Oct 2016
    • 60

    EV Battery As A Backup

    This is going to be a long post. I hope it won't be quite as dumb as the last question I asked. This is inspired by a conversation I've been having with alternative energy evangelists. Before I start, I want to say that a) I own an electric car but am absolutely no one's "EVangelist," and b) I'm intrigued by solar and have considered it for my new house, and am still thinking it over. I'm saying the foregoing in case anyone thinks that I'm somehow negative on alternatives. That's not the case. I am a facts and numbers guy. I don't do faith-based transportation or HVAC.

    With that, here goes.

    ---------------------

    Let's start with the current reality that EVs don't have the capability to send electricity anywhere but within the vehicle. That, of course, could be changed pretty easily, so for this purpose I'll postulate that we're talking about an EV that can discharge power outside of the vehicle. I will also frame the discussion, for now, in terms of the newest popularly-priced EVs now on the market or arriving soon: Chevy's Bolt, the forthcoming Tesla Model 3, and the next version of the Nissan LEAF. All of them will ship with a battery that holds approximately 60 kWh. Because of the nature of lithium-ion batteries, the intelligent EV owner will use 80% of the battery's capacity; using all of it will kill the battery life. If you use 80%, your EV battery will last for 2,000 charging cycles until it drops below 70% of original capacity.

    Note to those considering a pure battery EV: Do not top it off every night. It will have a negative impact on your battery life. Instead, you should wait for your EV's battery to reach 10%-20% state of charge, then fill it up to 90%. Habitually exceed those parameters and you run the risk of turning your EV's battery into a typical cellphone battery, enjoying only a few years of life.

    I'm going to use my own electricity consumption as the baseline. Yes, results will vary, but you have to start somewhere. My house, just built, is 2,700 sq ft with triple-pane windows, upgraded insulation and a hybrid heat pump, meaning one that runs on electricity to 30 degrees and a propane furnace below that. 95% of the lighting here is LED.

    In the coldest month this winter (late December to late January), this house used an average of 72 kWh a day. I did some tweaking of use here, and between late January and late February it went to 53 kWh a day. Next winter will tell the real story, but for now I think 60 kWh a day at the depth of winter is a reasonable guesstimate. I've been reading the meter every day at 2 p.m., so I lack precise information on how much power is used outside of the period when panels would generate electricity.

    For now, I will assume that, in winter, panels produce electricity between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., and that the house uses more electricity before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. than during those hours. If it's 60 kWh a day, I'd score the "off-sun" use at 50 kWh. That would be roughly 80% of a Bolt-Model 3-new LEAF's battery, and one complete charging cycle. I'm sure these numbers aren't precise, but I think they're close enough for horseshoes for this purpose. Note: There would be losses involved in sending juice from the EV battery to the house. I figure about 15%, but maybe that's wrong? If it's roughly correct, then a 60 kW EV battery could send 40 kWh to the house net of losses, operating within manufacturer's recommendations, i.e., using 80% of battery capacity.

    Also: These panels would be located at 45.75 degrees North, i.e., along the Columbia River. Unobstructed in all directions.

    The foregoing raises the following issues:

    1. To use the EV battery for the house will render the EV unusable for six hours a day, unless it's driven to a workplace that provides EV charging. Even then, however, the house would use all of the car's battery capacity, so you'd have to hope that your workplace was very close to your home. Otherwise, you'd have just bought yourself a $35,000 storage battery. Yep, it'd have wheels and a motor, etc., but God help you if you actually used it for that purpose in winter.

    Note: Why pick winter? The answer is that winter is the most challenging, and if you're thinking that you'll go off-grid, you need to plan for the worst. Same goes for EV driving, by the way. In winter, an EV typically uses 50% more electricity per mile than it does in summer. I'd point out that EVs really don't like going uphill. You use a lot more juice going uphill than you save by going downhill. These and other things rarely get mentioned by what I like to call the EVangelists.

    2. Can a typical household panel setup generate 50 kWh a day during winter, over and above what the house itself uses when the sun is up? How does that change when in rain, snow, and fog? (Between mid-December and late February, it's no day at the beach around here.)

    3. Charging cycles. I think someone who uses an EV as their panel storage will devote at least 200 cycles a year, and probably more, to backing up the panels. Use it for nothing but that purpose, and the battery life will be 10 years. I suspect the reality would be harsher -- at least 300 cycles a year -- hence 6-2/3 years of battery life.

    4. There can be no seasonal storage, given the relatively small capacity of the EV battery. Thus, the great summer surplus from the panels cannot carry over to winter months in an off-grid application in which your EV is your storage battery.

    5. Someone who works for a living will leave his house before prime panel hours, and arrive afterwards. So, if he's truly off-grid, he's going to need another backup battery at home.

    THESIS:

    Forget about using your EV battery as your panel backup. If you do, you'd better heat your house entirely with wood or propane, and ditch that heat pump.

    ------------------

    Folks, please shoot holes in the above if you'd like. All I ask is that people withhold their sarcasm. I can live with it, but I so much more prefer a civil and informative conversation. I have a lot of respect for this group, and hope for some guidance here. There are things I don't know, and that's why I am here asking. Thanks much.
    Last edited by Charlie W; 03-28-2018, 08:58 PM.
  • J.P.M.
    Solar Fanatic
    • Aug 2013
    • 14920

    #2
    What is uncivil and uninformative about sarcasm ? It's only meant to eviscerate someone's spirit like a wolf disemboweling a sheep.

    Onward.

    If it was me, I'd get a better handle on usage as f(temp.) and then wait 5 or so years for battery tech. to develop a bit more and for price deductions. A portable and maybe dual purpose battery (house and car is nice, but the price seems steep and the warranty will probably be voided. In the mean time, I'd make good use of the time and use it to get a serious handle on usage patterns/requirements while simultaneously doing some serious economic analysis on storage costs and payback/ROI and tradeoffs of conventional fuel costs against economically optimum solar fractions. Always better to start with learning about the task and then use the knowledge to set cost effective, appropriate and realistic goals.

    BTW, the cost effectiveness of seasonal storage of any energy for small scale (that is, less than district or city size) has been and is at this time, almost invariably not cost effective. Been there. Done that. Maybe some day, but not this day, and tomorrow ain't looking too good either.

    Comment

    • Mike90250
      Moderator
      • May 2009
      • 16020

      #3
      There are several articles and blogs about this now. the Original was Prius as a Backup

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      Comment

      • jflorey2
        Solar Fanatic
        • Aug 2015
        • 2331

        #4
        Some notes:
        Originally posted by Charlie W
        Let's start with the current reality that EVs don't have the capability to send electricity anywhere but within the vehicle.
        Any EV with a ChaDeMo port can charge and discharge via that port. I am 75% sure that the SAE combo connector will let you do the same thing. The external hardware that allows this is expensive and custom.
        Note to those considering a pure battery EV: Do not top it off every night. It will have a negative impact on your battery life. Instead, you should wait for your EV's battery to reach 10%-20% state of charge, then fill it up to 90%.
        Filling it up to 50% will do a lot more to extend the life of your battery.
        1. To use the EV battery for the house will render the EV unusable for six hours a day, unless it's driven to a workplace that provides EV charging. Even then, however, the house would use all of the car's battery capacity, so you'd have to hope that your workplace was very close to your home. Otherwise, you'd have just bought yourself a $35,000 storage battery.
        Would likely make more sense to lease such a vehicle if you wanted to do this; cheaper and you'll kill the battery a lot faster. You can get a Bolt for $193 a month. (Quirk Chevrolet in MA.)
        Forget about using your EV battery as your panel backup. If you do, you'd better heat your house entirely with wood or propane, and ditch that heat pump.
        Agreed. EV's are decent emergency power supplies but are not a good replacement for a battery for an off-grid house. (Or for use as a peak-shifter.) EV's are good opportunistic loads during times when power is free (i.e. you are net-zero and have a surplus during the day) or when it's very cheap (i.e. midnight.)

        At best scrapped EV's will supply some decent cheaper batteries for home storage. In the homebuilt EV world, used Tesla and Volt batteries are often sought after for ebikes and smaller EV's.

        Comment

        • Charlie W
          Member
          • Oct 2016
          • 60

          #5
          Originally posted by J.P.M.
          If it was me, I'd get a better handle on usage as f(temp.) and then wait 5 or so years for battery tech. to develop a bit more and for price deductions. A portable and maybe dual purpose battery (house and car is nice, but the price seems steep and the warranty will probably be voided. In the mean time, I'd make good use of the time and use it to get a serious handle on usage patterns/requirements while simultaneously doing some serious economic analysis on storage costs and payback/ROI and tradeoffs of conventional fuel costs against economically optimum solar fractions. Always better to start with learning about the task and then use the knowledge to set cost effective, appropriate and realistic goals.

          BTW, the cost effectiveness of seasonal storage of any energy for small scale (that is, less than district or city size) has been and is at this time, almost invariably not cost effective. Been there. Done that. Maybe some day, but not this day, and tomorrow ain't looking too good either.
          Agreed about a better handle on usage. I wouldn't install panels until I had at least a complete year's worth of data. I posted this now as a preliminary look and nothing more. That much said, if I were going to go off-grid, I think I'd need to plan for the worst, i.e. the depth of winter, and I do have that much information right now.

          My attitude about solar panels is strictly a matter of the economics. Some people -- a lot of people, I think -- have solar panels for what amount to reasons of vanity, i.e. to feed their illusion of independence and climate change virtue. That's not me. I view panels strictly as a way to prepay 25 years' worth of electricity bills and nothing more than that. I am hugely skeptical of storage on grounds of cost, having once tried pricing it out and coming up with a minimum cost of 18 cents/kWh -- but probably much more when the limited life of batteries is considered.

          That much said, I have lifetime track record of starting out skeptical and changing my mind when the facts warrant it. To praise this forum again, it's the only place I've found on the Internet where most people seem to deal in the realities. It'd be understating the case to say how valuable that is to me. As an EV owner, I am thoroughly familiar with the "EVangelists" who habitually overstate the performance metrics and ignore the downsides. I have zero patience with that mentality. So, thanks to you and others here for telling it straight. It's a very, very big deal to me.
          Last edited by Charlie W; 03-29-2018, 07:31 PM.

          Comment

          • Charlie W
            Member
            • Oct 2016
            • 60

            #6
            Originally posted by jflorey2
            Any EV with a ChaDeMo port can charge and discharge via that port. I am 75% sure that the SAE combo connector will let you do the same thing. The external hardware that allows this is expensive and custom.
            I didn't know that, probably because I've never considered using my EV's battery for that purpose.

            Originally posted by jflorey2
            Filling it up to 50% will do a lot more to extend the life of your battery.
            My EV has a 25 kW battery. Filling it only halfway would just kill the range, especially in winter. I've done a fair amount of research, and given the reality of how I use the car, I think my typical practice, which is to run it down to 25% state of charge and fill it to 100%, has worked and will keep working. Some manufacturers want people to cycle between 20% and 80%. Others say 10% and 90%. I think what really kills batteries is frequent topping off to 100% from a high state of charge, i.e., going from 80% to 100%. A lot of people who leased the first-generation LEAFs did that, and as a result the batteries crapped out very quickly. My EV's battery is going strong. I'll keep my fingers crossed, but in any case it's not something I use very much anyway.

            Originally posted by jflorey2
            Agreed. EV's are decent emergency power supplies but are not a good replacement for a battery for an off-grid house. (Or for use as a peak-shifter.) EV's are good opportunistic loads during times when power is free (i.e. you are net-zero and have a surplus during the day) or when it's very cheap (i.e. midnight.) At best scrapped EV's will supply some decent cheaper batteries for home storage. In the homebuilt EV world, used Tesla and Volt batteries are often sought after for ebikes and smaller EV's.
            We don't have time-of-day rates around here. They really don't make sense in our area, given the source of our power, which is 89% hydro and wind (not sure of the mix between the two, but I will know in another week because I'm going to be sitting down with a guy from the utility); 8% a nuke plant; and 3% coal. We are a thinly-populated county with negligible peaks even in mid-summer, and none that require bringing on additional generation.
            Last edited by Charlie W; 03-29-2018, 07:29 PM.

            Comment

            • J.P.M.
              Solar Fanatic
              • Aug 2013
              • 14920

              #7
              Originally posted by Charlie W

              Agreed about a better handle on usage. I wouldn't install panels until I had at least a complete year's worth of data. I posted this now as a preliminary look and nothing more. That much said, if I were going to go off-grid, I think I'd need to plan for the worst, i.e. the depth of winter, and I do have that much information right now.

              My attitude about solar panels is strictly a matter of the economics. Some people -- a lot of people, I think -- have solar panels for what amount to reasons of vanity, i.e. to feed their illusion of independence and climate change virtue. That's not me. I view panels strictly as a way to prepay 25 years' worth of electricity bills and nothing more than that. I am hugely skeptical of storage on grounds of cost, having once tried pricing it out and coming up with a minimum cost of 18 cents/kWh -- but probably much more when the limited life of batteries is considered.

              That much said, I have lifetime track record of starting out skeptical and changing my mind when the facts warrant it. To praise this forum again, it's the only place I've found on the Internet where most people seem to deal in the realities. It'd be understating the case to say how valuable that is to me. As an EV owner, I am thoroughly familiar with the "EVangelists" who habitually overstate the performance metrics and ignore the downsides. I have zero patience with that mentality. So, thanks to you and others here for telling it straight. It's a very, very big deal to me.
              Opinions vary, and none of us is as smart as all or us. Expect the worst, hope for the best. You'll me pleasantly surprised more than unpleasantly disappointed, particularly in matters relating to renewable energy where anyone who can read a green mafia rag is an instant expert.

              Comment

              • Charlie W
                Member
                • Oct 2016
                • 60

                #8
                Originally posted by J.P.M.

                Opinions vary, and none of us is as smart as all or us. Expect the worst, hope for the best. You'll me pleasantly surprised more than unpleasantly disappointed, particularly in matters relating to renewable energy where anyone who can read a green mafia rag is an instant expert.
                I've been tossed off of a couple of those forums for telling the unvarnished truth about electric car performance, and sticking to it. I find this forum refreshing for the relative lack of Kool-Aid logic with respect to solar panels. I just hate having air blown up my pant leg.

                Comment

                • J.P.M.
                  Solar Fanatic
                  • Aug 2013
                  • 14920

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Charlie W

                  I've been tossed off of a couple of those forums for telling the unvarnished truth about electric car performance, and sticking to it. I find this forum refreshing for the relative lack of Kool-Aid logic with respect to solar panels. I just hate having air blown up my pant leg.
                  Most of the time there's an ill defined boundary between candor and rancor, with the difference in interpretation being a matter of opinion. It's easier to be rude than to bring someone around to your way of seeing things. How easy often depends on egos on all sides.

                  Comment

                  • Charlie W
                    Member
                    • Oct 2016
                    • 60

                    #10
                    Originally posted by J.P.M.

                    Most of the time there's an ill defined boundary between candor and rancor, with the difference in interpretation being a matter of opinion. It's easier to be rude than to bring someone around to your way of seeing things. How easy often depends on egos on all sides.
                    It's understandable on hot-button political issues like gun control, and even on ones like climate change where (IMO) the science is far from settled. But when it comes to the cost and performance of wind turbines, solar panels, and electric cars, there should be a good deal less B.S. than I've seen out there.

                    Comment

                    • jflorey2
                      Solar Fanatic
                      • Aug 2015
                      • 2331

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Charlie W
                      My EV has a 25 kW battery. Filling it only halfway would just kill the range, especially in winter. I've done a fair amount of research, and given the reality of how I use the car, I think my typical practice, which is to run it down to 25% state of charge and fill it to 100%, has worked and will keep working.
                      The single worst thing you can do for a li-ion battery is charge it at 100% in high temperatures and leave it there.

                      If you can afford the range loss, charging it to 80% (or even 90%) will extend the life of your battery. If you must charge to 100%, do it early in the morning when the car is at its coolest. Ideally charge to 80% at night then "top off" just before you leave so the car is at the 100% charge state for as short a time as possible.
                      I think what really kills batteries is frequent topping off to 100% from a high state of charge, i.e., going from 80% to 100%.
                      It is charging to - and staying at - 100%, especially in high temperatures.


                      Comment

                      • J.P.M.
                        Solar Fanatic
                        • Aug 2013
                        • 14920

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Charlie W

                        It's understandable on hot-button political issues like gun control, and even on ones like climate change where (IMO) the science is far from settled. But when it comes to the cost and performance of wind turbines, solar panels, and electric cars, there should be a good deal less B.S. than I've seen out there.
                        Opinions vary. Some issues are more hot button than others to some people. What may be hot button to you others may not even know about. You may well think there "should" be less B.S., but you don't have the say on what other folks think is important or a lock on the truth.

                        Comment

                        • Sunking
                          Solar Fanatic
                          • Feb 2010
                          • 23301

                          #13
                          You have a lot of misconceptions.

                          Lets start with State of Charge. No EV manufacture would allow a client to ever fully charge their EV battery. If they did that, your battery would be dead in two years. EV manufactures only allow you to charge up to 80 to 90% so they can extend the battery life.

                          Secondly what you are thinking about doing has already been done many times. But there is a few catches. Example you have to design a custom Inverter to operate from the EV battery voltage. EV battery voltages are not standardized. Second the second you modify the EV voids all your warranty.

                          Now here is the big kicker everyone either does not know, does not want to know, or doe snot want anybody to be be known. Any battery power system the electricity is many multiple times more expensive than just buying the same power from the POCO. Essentially works like this. Two gas stations on opposite corners of an intersection. One sell gas for $2/gal, and the other $10/gal. Me thinks anyone buying gas for $10/gal is a fool and deserves to loose all their money. Are you a fool?
                          MSEE, PE

                          Comment

                          • Guest

                            #14
                            There are some other scenarios to consider, though none of it doesn't suit OP right now.
                            It may be cheaper to recharge an EV at work, also to work not too far away from home. In this case it makes sense to shop cheap electricity at work and use some of it in your home.

                            Second, one may not use his car daily. It's not the case in US, but public transit is used by a lot of people in suburbs in many places in Europe. This kinds of people may use their PHEV just for a few times a week, and this usage will occur mostly after work/ daylight. In this case why paying for a bigger battery for house? And solar panels will keep the house and charge both batts, house and car.

                            Some may work just a little hours during the day.

                            Newer models of Prius (PHEVs) are already built like this, intended for acting as home backups. Expect future EVs to pump electricity from one to another easily.

                            Comment

                            • JohnyWalter
                              Junior Member
                              • May 2018
                              • 8

                              #15
                              Great respond!
                              I have a question.You can apply this method to <link Deleted by Mod> Power Wheels 6-Volt Rechargeable Replacement Battery"?
                              There are problems with son power wheel machine.
                              Thanks in advance.
                              Last edited by Mike90250; 08-13-2018, 01:59 AM.

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