Why "critical load panel only" when grid is down?
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OK, maybe a bit late to this topic, but I've usually been over at Arizona Wind & Sun forum, and just found this site.
Now, I can speak from experience, as I have done this, just not at 13kw of PV, but 4.7kw. When I did mine, a 13kw system would have been just about $100K, more than I could put in. It is spectacular to see it is now within reach for people. I'm itching to add another 9kw or so too.
First, a Critical Load Panel is required, not so much because the output of your PV panels is limited, but the output of your battery is limited. And maybe it could do it in full sunlight, but at night running a 10kw heater and a 6kw oven, your TV, refrigerator, and of course heated pool would be a death sentence for the batteries. I too had no idea when I started, but "ripple current" is a crucial factor to keep in mind when sizing a battery. My first set of batteries were about 370 ah @ 48 V, and even at that size did fine for me, but I had to actually limit the PV input at certain times as the system was battery limited.
Now, some talk like these are AA batteries and might run an LED light or two for an hour. I have heavy duty 700 ah @ 48 V batteries, and can run my critical load panel which includes one 3 ton A/C unit, rated 24 SEER, my hybrid GE water heater, two refrigerators, a microwave, and lights for two rooms and a bathroom. It might be pushing things to run everything at once, but I have managed to do this as a test for several weekends. In fact, I wanted to be able to go "off-grid" with this critical load panel, which I informed the local electric company when they were attempting to institute a what I considered unfair demand rate requirement for people with PV. To their credit, the electric company did listen to my concerns and logic, and although they instituted a demand rate, it is only for on-peak times, which is fair.
Also, a generator is just money invested that sits there, needing to be maintained, until needed. I put the money into the PV system, which also allowed me to switch to a TOU rate plan, and now actually a TOU demand rate plan, where I get electricity at about 60% of the regular price. So I am saving on every kwh I do use, such as for my LEAF, and have managed to keep the electric bill to about $70 in the winter here in Florida, and about $120 or so in the summer.
In the end too, it isn't just about economics, although that of course has to be a factor. It was about clean energy, being prepared for a future week or two grid outage, and even more of a total lifestyle commitment.
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. I too had no idea when I started, but "ripple current" is a crucial factor to keep in mind when sizing a battery. My first set of batteries were about 370 ah @ 48 V, and even at that size did fine for me, but I had to actually limit the PV input at certain times as the system was battery limited.
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Too high of a charging current can damage a battery. So a large array needed to harvest winter sun, is too large for summer clear weather. Many charge controllers can be programmed to limit charge current for this reason.Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-ListerComment
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So if the batteries are not fully charged will the FlexMax send "x" power to the batteries and any excess they cant handle will go through to the loads and then the grid?
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It is not only if your system can handle the whole house, it probably can, but how many hours or days, your battery/solar system can preform before getting to 50% of rated battery usage, you don't want to go further down... That is reason why subpanel has smaller load... And if you go further without mains down you going to need a gas generator to supply house and to charge batteries back up...Last edited by MetricAmerica; 05-29-2016, 08:28 PM.Comment
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What you have to do, is to program the inverter to start selling after the controller hits ABSORB and then your excess PV goes to the Grid. It can get pretty technical getting all the settings to play well together.Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-ListerComment
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Well hopefully for the top dollar I am paying, my installer will make sure that the mate3 is doing all this cool stuff.Comment
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