Is this an mppt charge controller or fake?

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  • Alex9
    Member
    • Jun 2012
    • 61

    #1

    Is this an mppt charge controller or fake?

    I bought this charge controller from china some months ago. I read about mppt and went for it. Well, it was only $60 but at the time I thought that was a lot for a charge controller. I've come a long way since then and have ordered an outback mppt charge controller. So I don't think this is an mppt because when I measure 6.xx amps at the pv terminals, it only reads 4.xx on the lcd. It has a MPPT Demo button which, when pressed, shows you that 4.20 amps is being converted to about 4 amps. I wrote to the seller a couple times and they swear by their product and say I should take it to a professional to verify it's an mppt cc.
    Here are the specs from them.

    20A MPPT( Max Power Point Tracking) solar charge controller, solar regulator

    the efficiency increased by 15-30%

    Features:
    l High technology MPPT, the efficiency > 98%
    l Adopt DC converting circuit、convert efficiency > 96%
    l With LCD display, display the efficiency by this controller,
    l Function as a power meter,LCD show the battery voltage, charging current, charging power, output status, output mode, time, and accumulate power saving.
    l Suitable for wide range battery. Volta
    l Max charge and discharge current 10A
    l Five output modes:Manual、standard、timer、 light sensor、light sensor on+timer off
    l Built in timer , suitable for periodicity discharge system, such as solar street light ,solar pump, etc
    l Over charge, over discharge, overload, short circuit protect function
    l 3-stage charging algorithm, impulse, bulk,and float
    l Total Aluminium housing for good heat sinking,
    l Low stand-by power consumption
    Specification:
    l Rated voltage 12V DC/24VDC
    l Max voltage: 40V DC
    l Max solar panel 360W
    ★(1) Max input current 20A
    ★(2) Max output current 22A
    l Max discharging current 20A
    l Over discharging voltage 10.2—12.5V (±0.2)
    l Restart charging voltage 10.3—13.5V (±0.2)
    l Constant charging voltage 13.0—15.5V (±0.2)
    l Float charging voltage 12.5—14.5V (±0.2)
    l Adaptor Buck
    l timer precision ±50S/Month
    l Control mode for charging PWM
    l stand by power consumption <15mA
    l operating temperature -20 to +50℃
    l Protecting IP22
    l Size 140(L) × 147(W) × 42(H) (mm)
    l Weight 550g
  • Mike90250
    Moderator
    • May 2009
    • 16020

    #2
    You have to place a heavy load on the battery, to give the controller something to "do". And also provide it with a high voltage, low amp PV panel, and watch it downconvert the power.

    Heavy load, high Voltage PV, and if you don't get 90% of the watts going in, coming out, it's a fake.

    Read this post for more info about MPPT
    http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/showth...ge-controllers
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

    Comment

    • Alex9
      Member
      • Jun 2012
      • 61

      #3
      Originally posted by Mike90250
      You have to place a heavy load on the battery, to give the controller something to "do". And also provide it with a high voltage, low amp PV panel, and watch it downconvert the power.

      Heavy load, high Voltage PV, and if you don't get 90% of the watts going in, coming out, it's a fake.
      Can I test the amps on the battery terminals where the charge controller and inverter connect with a 10amp multimeter?

      Comment

      • Sunny Solar
        Solar Fanatic
        • May 2012
        • 510

        #4
        Also if the battery is above about 85% charged you wont be able to know.
        As above about 85% MPPT revert to being PWM.
        You need to discharge the battery to about 60% then connect a panel at least 2 times the nominal battery voltage
        ie .... 36v and above panel and 12v battery.

        Comment

        • Alex9
          Member
          • Jun 2012
          • 61

          #5
          Originally posted by Sunny Solar
          Also if the battery is above about 85% charged you wont be able to know.
          As above about 85% MPPT revert to being PWM.
          You need to discharge the battery to about 60% then connect a panel at least 2 times the nominal battery voltage
          ie .... 36v and above panel and 12v battery.
          The battery is below 60% but I guess I don't have enough pv volts. When my new panels come in I'll be able to do that and get back. Thanks

          Comment

          • Mike90250
            Moderator
            • May 2009
            • 16020

            #6
            Originally posted by Alex9
            Can I test the amps on the battery terminals where the charge controller and inverter connect with a 10amp multimeter?
            NO NEVER EVER use a multimeter set to AMPS, near battery terminals
            08d_smithph1_823706726.jpg


            A DC clip -on amp meter can be used.

            Batteries, test leads, and amp meters, have a way of " failing violently " when brought together.
            Last edited by Mike90250; 07-02-2012, 01:49 AM.
            Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
            || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
            || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

            solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
            gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

            Comment

            • Alex9
              Member
              • Jun 2012
              • 61

              #7
              Originally posted by Mike90250
              NO NEVER EVER use a multimeter set to AMPS, near battery terminals
              [ATTACH=CONFIG]2132[/ATTACH]


              A DC clip -on amp meter can be used.

              Batteries, test leads, and amp meters, have a way of " failing violently " when brought together.
              Thanks for the warning. I was hesitant to try. It just didn't seem right somehow. pheww

              Comment

              • Naptown
                Solar Fanatic
                • Feb 2011
                • 6880

                #8
                Originally posted by Mike90250
                NO NEVER EVER use a multimeter set to AMPS, near battery terminals
                [ATTACH=CONFIG]2132[/ATTACH]


                A DC clip -on amp meter can be used.

                Batteries, test leads, and amp meters, have a way of " failing violently " when brought together.
                Uhh you showed a clamp on ammeter
                NABCEP certified Technical Sales Professional

                [URL="http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/showthread.php?5334-Solar-Off-Grid-Battery-Design"]http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/showth...Battery-Design[/URL]

                [URL]http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html[/URL] (Voltage drop Calculator among others)

                [URL="http://www.gaisma.com"]www.gaisma.com[/URL]

                Comment

                • Mike90250
                  Moderator
                  • May 2009
                  • 16020

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Naptown
                  Uhh you showed a clamp on ammeter
                  No, that's all that's left. The probe lead section at the end opposite of the clamp, is missing !
                  Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                  || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                  || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

                  solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
                  gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

                  Comment

                  • Sunny Solar
                    Solar Fanatic
                    • May 2012
                    • 510

                    #10
                    The probe lead section at the end opposite of the clamp, is missing Then it is a clamp on amp meter WITH probe leads to do voltage and resistance measurements at other end.?? So how did it get destroyed? There is no way I can see it would get destroyed from measuring excessive current using the clamp ? And if using the probed to try and measure AMPS would blow the probe tips off before much else happened. Ive seen that happen..

                    Comment

                    • billvon
                      Solar Fanatic
                      • Mar 2012
                      • 803

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Sunny Solar
                      The probe lead section at the end opposite of the clamp, is missing Then it is a clamp on amp meter WITH probe leads to do voltage and resistance measurements at other end.?? So how did it get destroyed? There is no way I can see it would get destroyed from measuring excessive current using the clamp ? And if using the probed to try and measure AMPS would blow the probe tips off before much else happened. Ive seen that happen..
                      Might be overvoltage. I've seen meters destroyed by trying to measure HV DC.

                      Comment

                      • inetdog
                        Super Moderator
                        • May 2012
                        • 9909

                        #12
                        So how did it get destroyed? There is no way I can see it would get destroyed from measuring excessive current using the clamp ?
                        Even if it has an AC-DC clamp-on feature, it may well have also included probe-in-series current ranges for the lower DC or AC ranges which the clamp cannot detect accurately. The fuse for the internal shunt connection is not likely to be capable of interrupting a significant DC overload. It would just provide a good starting point for the arc that melted/destroyed the whole end of the meter.
                        SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.

                        Comment

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