Originally posted by NetComrade
View Post
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Mixing SolarEdge and Enphase
Collapse
X
-
Last edited by J.P.M.; 04-18-2019, 11:25 AM. -
Originally posted by J.P.M. View Post
What's you latitude ? For latitudes > ~ 20 deg. or so, a horizontal array orientation will produce less than a tilted orientation. Another big concern with horizontal panels is that they quickly turn into shallow sandboxes and, depending on location and local climate/conditions, without very frequent dusting/cleaning, lose a fair amount of production from dirt/dust buildup.Last edited by NetComrade; 04-18-2019, 12:05 PM.Comment
-
Originally posted by NetComrade View Post
We are at around 40 degrees (around Wash DC area). Based on http://www.solarpaneltilt.com/, Optimal solar angle is 15 degrees. the flattish (porch) roof is about 10 (or horizontal to level ground as you prefer). I am on the roof regularly, and it's pretty clean. I am encouraged to give it a wash and see what happens this summer.
Another common rule of thumb that's been around for a long time, and in the absence of more site specific information is that optimum tilt is somewhere around the local latitude +/- 10 deg. maybe, and facing generally south +/- 20-30 deg. azimuth or so.
A better approx. than either of those is to use PVWatts for your location and fish around some with the orientation. That usually takes about 5-10 minutes for what's probably a better estimate for a particular orientation. Shading and general annual cloud/weather patterns will of course need to be considered and will affect that optimum orientation. That's part of what PVWatts considers and why it's probably a better way to approx. optimum orientation than rules of thumb.Comment
-
Originally posted by J.P.M. View Post
Based on that approximation from your included link, at 40 deg. lat.: Optimum tilt = (40 deg.)* (0.76) + 3.1 deg. = 33.5 deg., which also agrees with the included table.
Comment
-
Originally posted by NetComrade View Post
You're referencing optimal tilt on annual basis for maximum annual production, I was referencing optimal tilt for peak summer production, and my expectation that panels would be performing closely to rated wattage.
But, if you're going to be on a net metering schedule that has annual trueup as most do, you will, in all likelihood be better off with a greater tilt angle than 17 deg. unless shading or some other circumstances dictate.
Maybe I'm way wrong here, but it reads to me like you either have monthly trueup and know it, or you don't understand how your net metering will work, and you have an incorrect notion of how things work that will cost you annual production and money.Comment
-
My net metering is most likely annual. I bank of anything I put into the utility, and usually use it up starting with November (usually done by Jan).
I was able to spend some time on this lately (mostly dependent on construction that will support the panels)
The solution I am leaning towards is the following:
Add 24x310 = 7500W panels (will go on top of structures that is not house--custom made carport + firewood shed)
Add Sol-Ark 8K Hybrid Inverter
Connect existing 7.5 SolareEdge (6000) array to AC Coupling port (Sol-Ark can handle 13000W PV from string DC and AC Coupling)
Leave 3.8 SolarEdge connected to Grid (goes offline when Grid goes offline)
Add 11-22kW battery bank (the batteries they use are same Carbon technology as Oasis Firefly--deeper discharge and more cycles for the buck)
Add generator outside of Sol-Ark, as it can act as "grid".
Total equipment spend is about 17K, (12K w/o batteries). Panels are used REC310 72 cell, saving couple of grand on the project.
The Sol-Ark has impressive specs. Frankly, thought it was a fringe product (EMP protection), but appears to be solid technology. Their batteries about almost half the price of Oasis Firefly per Ah.
May go for smallest bank, if I can get away with it.
May need to add a couple of Tigo optimizers for any shading issues.
BTW, my existing arrays (9800W nameplate) peaked at 8500W generation a few days ago for a brief period..Last edited by NetComrade; 06-25-2019, 04:00 PM.Comment
-
Originally posted by NetComrade View Post..........
Add generator outside of Sol-Ark, as it can act as "grid".
.....Last edited by Ampster; 06-26-2019, 06:56 PM.9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012Comment
-
Originally posted by Ampster View Post
When you say the generator can "act as grid" are you thinking [..] you can AC couple it to control the Griid site Inverter? The later is likely not possible.
Comment
-
AC coupling requires there be a place for the solar produced AC to go. You need a battery able to absorb the full power of the array.
Attempting to use a generator as a mini-grid and hope that your loads will always exceed your solar production works fine - UNTIL the solar produces more, and then your generator goes kaboom because it's not made to absorb any power from an outside source.Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-ListerComment
-
Upon further reserch I decided to keep it simple
I will interlock existing critical panel with Sol-Ark.
I will use Sol-Ark Generator input as intended by inverter company.
I will share the generator input with a (new) "less critical" panel, which will also be interlocked with the generator.
I will NOT AC couple existing Solar. Basically, I will bolt on this whole system and make it stupid proof.
IF I never need to run "less critical load", I will probably be home and take generator off "autostart" and leave it on "on" and manually add "less critical load" to it. When electricity comes back, or "less critical load" is no longer needed, system can be taken off manual mode. See next post for rough picture.Comment
-
Here is a diagram. Most of existing system is drawn by pencil.(except for main panel).. Critical panel currently exists, but will have to be (re)wired to Sol-ArkAttached FilesLast edited by NetComrade; 07-05-2019, 08:41 PM.Comment
-
solar_2019_0908_diag.jpg
Latest diagram... Relatively simple.. Did not implement all the Manuel switches for "full house mode". Was pretty simple for DIY to add the Sol-Ark and batteries.. completely independent from StorEdge, and not worth connecting unless we have frequent lengthy outages.Comment
-
Originally posted by NetComrade View PostIf anybody cares, been working good after i figured out settings and verified connections. Only had a minor power outage so far that I am aware of.. added 20-25kWh generation daily.Last edited by Ampster; 11-05-2019, 07:45 PM.9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012Comment
-
Originally posted by NetComrade View PostIf anybody cares, been working good after i figured out settings and verified connections. Only had a minor power outage so far that I am aware of.. added 20-25kWh generation daily.9 kW solar, 42kWh LFP storage. EV owner since 2012Comment
Comment